Leupold Scope Problems AGAIN

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mr.big

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thinkin about sellin them all.I took the 3.5-10x50 off the RUM and put the 8.5-25 LRT on,,I zeroed it at 100 with a known accurate load,,moved it up 28 clix for a +7 inches at 100 to be zeroed at 500,,the first shot at 500 ws 4 inches left and 3 inches low,I moved the scope and shot`s shots in 3.5 inches dead on..next 3 shots was on the milk jug video,the first 2 hit and the 3rd was about a foot to the right,,I figured it was me,

I put it back on paper and the 3 shots were a foot right,I moved the scope 10 clix which should be 12.5 inches at 500 yards,,first shot didn`t hit the target,,I put up some newspaper and shot 3 shots in 3.8 a foot left..moved back 10 clix and it was dead on,,,, 10 clix goes 2 feet left but only one foot right calls for a send back IMO,,if it don`t pass the test when it comes back I see a 6.5-20 Conquest with the mill-dot..
 
I personally won't buy another Leupold. IMO, why buy an inferior product for the same price of a higher quality product. Zeiss all the way.
 
Model70Man said:
I personally won't buy another Leupold. IMO, why buy an inferior product for the same price of a higher quality product. Zeiss all the way.

Good point
 
Send it in. I would be a wreck if I had that kinda money in a scope and it did that to me.

I just bought a VXI for the Stevens 243 and I like my 3200 Elite better so far.
 
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I have sent one scope back which was a Nikon Prostaff, they sent me a new one, I can't complain to much when it's only a 129.00 scope. Do you think its the 300RUM destroying the scope or just bad scopes? I have a Bushnell 3200 on mine, no problems so far.
 
That RUM is a big kicker... what kinda rings you got on it? I'd me more inclined to look at the rings/bases first before ever considering there was something awry with the scope.

I've only had issues like that twice with a Leupold scope... both times I found out it was the rings/base and not the scope. That's the most beautiful thing about the leupys... if they aren't tracking right, you can almost always assume it's something other than the scope.

In any case, Leupold will make it right if you send it in.
 
mr.big said:
this will be 4 of the 10 or so Leupolds I have had to send back.

I've have to also and customer service was as bad or worse then Remington treated me. Go Burris,never had a problem one out of them.
 
I think maybe your technique in mounting a Leupold on a long range rig might need some help. I don't mean any offense by that and my knives are all folded or sheathed right now. What I mean is the wheeler engineering level-level-level bubble kit may help. Your deflections and depressions at 100yds are a bit much but I think the wheeler kit may help. Maybe the crosshairs are 'tilted'? How many clicks did it take to get your initial zero? Were you using a base with MOA built in? Did you lap the rings? How much torque did you use when tightening the top ring? If you used too much the internals of the scope may be binding...not just that scope but any scope. I keep thinking why would you zero seven inches high at 100? Most of us in the long range shooting arena zero dead-on at 100 with chonographed loads and count our come-ups from the chronoed velocity and distance to target drops. I wouldn't be too unhappy with Leupold too fast ;)
 
one more thing to try to find out for sure (I'm sure you already know this...)

Sight in at 100, then move the adjustments 6 or 8 clicks to the right and shoot a 3 shot group. Then move same number clicks down and shoot another group. Next the same # clicks to the left and shoot. Finally back up same number clicks and shoot. The scope should track perfectly.

One more thing, if it's the side focus, you have to adjust it all the way out then focus back in anytime you change the focus or the parallax will be off.
 
firefox said:
I think maybe your technique in mounting a Leupold on a long range rig might need some help. I don't mean any offense by that and my knives are all folded or sheathed right now. What I mean is the wheeler engineering level-level-level bubble kit may help. Your deflections and depressions at 100yds are a bit much but I think the wheeler kit may help. Maybe the crosshairs are 'tilted'? How many clicks did it take to get your initial zero? Were you using a base with MOA built in? Did you lap the rings? How much torque did you use when tightening the top ring? If you used too much the internals of the scope may be binding...not just that scope but any scope. I keep thinking why would you zero seven inches high at 100? Most of us in the long range shooting arena zero dead-on at 100 with chonographed loads and count our come-ups from the chronoed velocity and distance to target drops. I wouldn't be too unhappy with Leupold too fast ;)

according to my balistice program I needed to come up 7 MOA from 100 to get on at 500,,it wasn`t perfect but it got me on paper at 500 in 7-8 shots from mounting,,I havent gotten any taperd bases,,soo it could be in the upper half who knows,,
I got a set of Burris Rings with the 20 MOA inserts ordered,,gonna try that first,,it is a heavy scope on a rifle with 55 lbs of recoil.
 
megalomaniac said:
one more thing to try to find out for sure (I'm sure you already know this...)

Sight in at 100, then move the adjustments 6 or 8 clicks to the right and shoot a 3 shot group. Then move same number clicks down and shoot another group. Next the same # clicks to the left and shoot. Finally back up same number clicks and shoot. The scope should track perfectly.

One more thing, if it's the side focus, you have to adjust it all the way out then focus back in anytime you change the focus or the parallax will be off.

I didn`t know that,,I always just turned it till I could see,,you saying I have to go all the way in and back??????
 
muddyboots said:
I had a burris once. Kept it about 2 days. LOL [/quote
LoL my oldest one is from 1972 and she's still a kicking. I reckon theres a lemon in them all,but Burris is top notch to deal with. :cool:
 
Mr Big,

to be technicall correct, on the Leupolds with the side focus, you can adjust the parallax focus as you move in distances, but if you move the focus back out, you are supposed to dial it all the way out, then move it back in.

Now the parallax adjustments on the Nightforce, USO, S&B, etc you don't have to do that. But according to Leupold, you are supposed to dial all the way out, then back in to properly adjust.

Whether it really makes a difference or not I honestly don't know... I rarely do it with mine, but it is something to consider.
 
I've shot leupys for over 30 yrs and nary an issue,308,30-06,300WM 45-70,375HH and 458wm and 460 Weatherby Mag,most often it is the shooter,mounts or scope all in that order....but leupold will work with you on it and that is worth something.
 

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