Let me start by saying i'm just a tinkerer and do not have the time or want to do this all time. Read all of it because i have a tendancy to skip around. If there are any questions feel free to PM or post em.
So here goes.
How to prep and paint your gun; a somewhat detailed story.
I�m only listing stuff used on this particular project plus couple tips throughout the story. There are many ways to accomplish some of these steps; especially paint patterns (tape and wax paper will be used to make stencils for nice clean lines on this one but the possibilities are endless). Remember the prep work is essential to nice final product. Only a stock is being done here; a complicated stock, but again tips are included for doing other parts.
Supplies:
You�ll need a gun or somethin else to camo up.
Rattle can paint colors of your choice
Clear (on most of my own I do not use clear because it�s less to strip when I want to change it up)
Rags
Rubbing alcohol (I use an automotive pre cleaner for the first wipe down and after scuffing but rubbing alcohol will work fine)
Scotch bright pads (easier to use than sand paper but sand paper will work)
Stripper (only your taking off paint before working your magic)
Q-tips
Tape
Wax paper
Manila folder
Exacto knife or razor blade
Fine tip marker
Dust free surfaces to paint on
Wire hangers (or other ways to hang parts)
Creativity
First step disassembleHow far you want to disassemble is completely up to you. Keep all the parts and screws organized. God help you if your stock has more screws in it than your car.
This stock had been painted before and layering up paint is not desirable so to strip down use liquid stripper on a rag and elbow grease. Pour a little stripper in a bowl, dip a rag and rub till you get all the old paint off, change places on the rag cause it will get saturated with the old paint and quit stripping. Once done rub it down again with stripper to make sure everything is off. This specimen had duracoat under the old paint which is an epoxy base coating and will allow the paint to actually stick better than taking it off (if you want to get duracoat off there are heavy duty strippers at the hardware store that will take off epoxy based finishes, they will say on the container).
If there is no need to strip old paint or finish material, rub everything down good with rubbing alcohol to get all the oils off.
Second step
Tape off any surfaces you do not want painted. Examples are scope lenses, bedding in a stock, tight fitting parts, action, blah blah blah� If you�re painting a barrel stick a foam ear plug in the muzzle.
Third step
Scuff everything with the scotch bright pad. Make sure to get in all the little nooks and crannies. I sometimes elect not to scuff parts like scopes cause if I ever want to sell or trade the paint can be taken off. In some instances I do not scuff the barrel and action for the same reasons. That�s completely up to you.
bottom piece is partially done here.
Fourth step, making stencils
Remember the creativity you rounded up from the supply list.
Get your stencils ready. On this project to get the clean lines put blue painters tape on both sides of wax paper.
Draw out the patterns you want on the tapped wax paper.
Cut out the patterns with the exacto knife or razor blade. Since you have put tape on both sides of the wax paper there will be two stencils for every one you draw and cut out. (side note: This is really cool if you want to get detailed and do mirror images on each side of the gun.)
Also draw and cut out anything you want to do with the manila folder. This will be held in place with your hand and sprayed over.
Feel free to add anything else to your pattern arsenal. Cheap laundry bags or your wife�s sexy fish net stockings and lace can make some killer patterns. Do not spray cloth pattern material heavily, it will soak through. (If the fish net stockings and lace are yours and you are a guy I recommend telling people they were your wife�s when they ask. �How�d you do that?�)
Fifth step
Wipe everything down again with rubbing alcohol and a clean rag twice. Remember those nooks and crannies again. Try to keep from touching the cleaned surfaces with your oily fingers; use another rag or the other end of the rag you�re cleaning with to hold onto the parts.
After cleaning a part hang them and/ or lay them on a dust free surface. You don�t want dust blowing up on your parts while you�re painting. (It is best to hang everything you can)
On the parts being laid out you want to paint the edges and mounting surfaces first so lay them where those surfaces can be painted first.
Sixth step
Apply your base coat. Gonna do tan on this one. Again I don�t like unneeded layering of paint so I�m mostly spraying the tan where I want it to show on the final product. Don�t overdo your spraying; spray your fist coat light, sort of like a heavy misting.
Tip: Do not forget to shake up the can before spraying and as you go along.
If some of the small parts will not be getting any stencil work they do not need to be painted in this step, only the final color will need to be applied to them.
Spray edges and mounting surfaces first because you want your final coat to be on the visible surfaces. (If you do it the other way around overspray may cause the surfaces you want to look the best to be rough)
Another tip; to avoid runs adjust your spray technique. As you wave the can over the part start moving your hand then push the valve to start spraying while your hand is in motion before you reach the part being painted and release the valve after you�ve past over the part while your hand is still in motion.
Let the first coat dry. With most rattle cans 10 minutes will suffice. Adjust the dry time as needed you�ll get the hang of it as you go along.
Apply a second coat to get the coverage needed. If 2 coats don�t give the needed coverage do three coats; just be patient and avoid runs.
Let this dry thoroughly may take an hour plus. Spray something you don�t care about so that you can handle it and make sure it is dry enough. After it is dry enough to touch; rub it lightly with alcohol and stick the blue tape to it and peel it off to make sure no paint comes off with the alcohol or tape.
Once the parts are dry rotate all them you have laying and repeat the painting process till they are coated to your liking. Then let them dry again.
Seventh step putting on stencils
Peel the stencils made out of tape and wax paper off the wax paper and stick them on the parts where ever you want the base coat color to show. Make sure to get the stencils in any dips or recesses well. If there is space anywhere between the part and tape, paint will get in there.
Eighth step
Clean the parts again with rubbing alcohol using the techniques mentioned earlier to get oil from your hands off the parts. When done cleaning a part hang it back up or place where you want to do the painting as they get them cleaned
Another tip: wipe off the surfaces parts are being laid on between paint steps to keep dust to a minimum. Not needed but use two different surfaces if possible so the surfaces can be rotated between cleanings.
Ninth step
Spray your next color, drab green is being used here. On this project there are only two colors so this is my final color. Stencils can be layered over each other to get as crazy as you want.
Here�s an example pic from an attempt on this same stock that I ended up stripping off because it just didn�t do it for me. (The light green turned out mint green. Yuck!) This part did look cool though.
The parts that are laid out will have to dry and be turned again.
Let this coat dry completely. Then peel off the stencils.
On this project there was a personal touch added to the cheek plates. This was done by painting them tan (front and back). The manila folder was used by drawing and cut out a pattern (used the internet to find what I wanted then traced it on the folder). The folder was held over the part and ultra flat black was lightly sprayed (2 coats). After spraying the black the folder was lifted off and the paint was allowed to dry for a few minutes. The folder stencil was then placed back over the same spot but offset just a tad to get a shadow look then sprayed with the drab green. The entire pattern on the gun can be done using this method.
Any guesses who's rifle this is? ;)
Tenth step only if clearing
Wipe all the parts down again with alcohol.
Spray the parts with clear. Coverage you are getting is a little harder to tell with clear so be careful to avoid runs. Do two to three coats.
Let this dry for a long time. It will probably be okay to reassemble in a few hours but a day or three is recommended. The longer the parts dry the less likely they are to stick together when you pull the gun apart again.
Tip: while the clear is drying the screws can be cleaned up if they had previous paint on them. If you want the screw heads painted stick the threaded part through a piece of card board so that you�re only getting paint on the screw heads.
Eleventh step
Reassemble everything being careful not to scratch up the newly painted masterpiece.
Try to let all the paint dry for about 3 days before exposing it to heavy use.
Other tips:
Try not to bump into whatever your parts laying on. It�s not fun having to start from scratch.
Dang that was long.
So here goes.
How to prep and paint your gun; a somewhat detailed story.
I�m only listing stuff used on this particular project plus couple tips throughout the story. There are many ways to accomplish some of these steps; especially paint patterns (tape and wax paper will be used to make stencils for nice clean lines on this one but the possibilities are endless). Remember the prep work is essential to nice final product. Only a stock is being done here; a complicated stock, but again tips are included for doing other parts.
Supplies:
You�ll need a gun or somethin else to camo up.
Rattle can paint colors of your choice
Clear (on most of my own I do not use clear because it�s less to strip when I want to change it up)
Rags
Rubbing alcohol (I use an automotive pre cleaner for the first wipe down and after scuffing but rubbing alcohol will work fine)
Scotch bright pads (easier to use than sand paper but sand paper will work)
Stripper (only your taking off paint before working your magic)
Q-tips
Tape
Wax paper
Manila folder
Exacto knife or razor blade
Fine tip marker
Dust free surfaces to paint on
Wire hangers (or other ways to hang parts)
Creativity
First step disassembleHow far you want to disassemble is completely up to you. Keep all the parts and screws organized. God help you if your stock has more screws in it than your car.
This stock had been painted before and layering up paint is not desirable so to strip down use liquid stripper on a rag and elbow grease. Pour a little stripper in a bowl, dip a rag and rub till you get all the old paint off, change places on the rag cause it will get saturated with the old paint and quit stripping. Once done rub it down again with stripper to make sure everything is off. This specimen had duracoat under the old paint which is an epoxy base coating and will allow the paint to actually stick better than taking it off (if you want to get duracoat off there are heavy duty strippers at the hardware store that will take off epoxy based finishes, they will say on the container).
If there is no need to strip old paint or finish material, rub everything down good with rubbing alcohol to get all the oils off.
Second step
Tape off any surfaces you do not want painted. Examples are scope lenses, bedding in a stock, tight fitting parts, action, blah blah blah� If you�re painting a barrel stick a foam ear plug in the muzzle.
Third step
Scuff everything with the scotch bright pad. Make sure to get in all the little nooks and crannies. I sometimes elect not to scuff parts like scopes cause if I ever want to sell or trade the paint can be taken off. In some instances I do not scuff the barrel and action for the same reasons. That�s completely up to you.
bottom piece is partially done here.
Fourth step, making stencils
Remember the creativity you rounded up from the supply list.
Get your stencils ready. On this project to get the clean lines put blue painters tape on both sides of wax paper.
Draw out the patterns you want on the tapped wax paper.
Cut out the patterns with the exacto knife or razor blade. Since you have put tape on both sides of the wax paper there will be two stencils for every one you draw and cut out. (side note: This is really cool if you want to get detailed and do mirror images on each side of the gun.)
Also draw and cut out anything you want to do with the manila folder. This will be held in place with your hand and sprayed over.
Feel free to add anything else to your pattern arsenal. Cheap laundry bags or your wife�s sexy fish net stockings and lace can make some killer patterns. Do not spray cloth pattern material heavily, it will soak through. (If the fish net stockings and lace are yours and you are a guy I recommend telling people they were your wife�s when they ask. �How�d you do that?�)
Fifth step
Wipe everything down again with rubbing alcohol and a clean rag twice. Remember those nooks and crannies again. Try to keep from touching the cleaned surfaces with your oily fingers; use another rag or the other end of the rag you�re cleaning with to hold onto the parts.
After cleaning a part hang them and/ or lay them on a dust free surface. You don�t want dust blowing up on your parts while you�re painting. (It is best to hang everything you can)
On the parts being laid out you want to paint the edges and mounting surfaces first so lay them where those surfaces can be painted first.
Sixth step
Apply your base coat. Gonna do tan on this one. Again I don�t like unneeded layering of paint so I�m mostly spraying the tan where I want it to show on the final product. Don�t overdo your spraying; spray your fist coat light, sort of like a heavy misting.
Tip: Do not forget to shake up the can before spraying and as you go along.
If some of the small parts will not be getting any stencil work they do not need to be painted in this step, only the final color will need to be applied to them.
Spray edges and mounting surfaces first because you want your final coat to be on the visible surfaces. (If you do it the other way around overspray may cause the surfaces you want to look the best to be rough)
Another tip; to avoid runs adjust your spray technique. As you wave the can over the part start moving your hand then push the valve to start spraying while your hand is in motion before you reach the part being painted and release the valve after you�ve past over the part while your hand is still in motion.
Let the first coat dry. With most rattle cans 10 minutes will suffice. Adjust the dry time as needed you�ll get the hang of it as you go along.
Apply a second coat to get the coverage needed. If 2 coats don�t give the needed coverage do three coats; just be patient and avoid runs.
Let this dry thoroughly may take an hour plus. Spray something you don�t care about so that you can handle it and make sure it is dry enough. After it is dry enough to touch; rub it lightly with alcohol and stick the blue tape to it and peel it off to make sure no paint comes off with the alcohol or tape.
Once the parts are dry rotate all them you have laying and repeat the painting process till they are coated to your liking. Then let them dry again.
Seventh step putting on stencils
Peel the stencils made out of tape and wax paper off the wax paper and stick them on the parts where ever you want the base coat color to show. Make sure to get the stencils in any dips or recesses well. If there is space anywhere between the part and tape, paint will get in there.
Eighth step
Clean the parts again with rubbing alcohol using the techniques mentioned earlier to get oil from your hands off the parts. When done cleaning a part hang it back up or place where you want to do the painting as they get them cleaned
Another tip: wipe off the surfaces parts are being laid on between paint steps to keep dust to a minimum. Not needed but use two different surfaces if possible so the surfaces can be rotated between cleanings.
Ninth step
Spray your next color, drab green is being used here. On this project there are only two colors so this is my final color. Stencils can be layered over each other to get as crazy as you want.
Here�s an example pic from an attempt on this same stock that I ended up stripping off because it just didn�t do it for me. (The light green turned out mint green. Yuck!) This part did look cool though.
The parts that are laid out will have to dry and be turned again.
Let this coat dry completely. Then peel off the stencils.
On this project there was a personal touch added to the cheek plates. This was done by painting them tan (front and back). The manila folder was used by drawing and cut out a pattern (used the internet to find what I wanted then traced it on the folder). The folder was held over the part and ultra flat black was lightly sprayed (2 coats). After spraying the black the folder was lifted off and the paint was allowed to dry for a few minutes. The folder stencil was then placed back over the same spot but offset just a tad to get a shadow look then sprayed with the drab green. The entire pattern on the gun can be done using this method.
Any guesses who's rifle this is? ;)
Tenth step only if clearing
Wipe all the parts down again with alcohol.
Spray the parts with clear. Coverage you are getting is a little harder to tell with clear so be careful to avoid runs. Do two to three coats.
Let this dry for a long time. It will probably be okay to reassemble in a few hours but a day or three is recommended. The longer the parts dry the less likely they are to stick together when you pull the gun apart again.
Tip: while the clear is drying the screws can be cleaned up if they had previous paint on them. If you want the screw heads painted stick the threaded part through a piece of card board so that you�re only getting paint on the screw heads.
Eleventh step
Reassemble everything being careful not to scratch up the newly painted masterpiece.
Try to let all the paint dry for about 3 days before exposing it to heavy use.
Other tips:
Try not to bump into whatever your parts laying on. It�s not fun having to start from scratch.
Dang that was long.
