Help from Crappie Fishermen

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chimneyman

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I've been fishing and catching crappie this winter but not as many as the boats around me. We are fishing appox 6 ft deep with floats it seems that the crappie are NOT pulling the float under i've watched other boats catch a crappie while i watched their floats i can't tell how they know a crappie is there any help or info ? Thanks
 
minnows or jigs under a float? if jigs, you should feel extra "weight" when a crappie takes the jig. with minnows, any unnatural movement of the float usually indicates a fish.
 
The colder the water, the more subtle the bite (that's usually true, anyway).

What type of float are you using? The medium sized slip corks with enough weight that they are only floating 1/2 out of the water seem to do pretty good for most thing, but if you are really having trouble seeing them, then look at those porcupine quill style ones and go with less weight.

Also, be sure your line isn't so heavy that they are seeing it before striking. I would generally stick to no heavier than 8 lb test unless you are really in some thick stuff.
 
I like the long, light pencil floats for winter bite. Its very sensitive and will actually stand up like a strike indicator. This year I have gone to no float and use the feel of the light, when they hit you will feel a slight tick on the line. This works really well when there is a slight current to toss up-current and drift into the fish.
 
When crappie (or smallmouth) fishing with jigs under floats, I always use the "pear-shaped floats."

Fish that take a bait very lightly or tentatively often will not pull it "down." However, if they take the jig, the pear-shaped float will often simply roll over on it's side. If that happens, set the hook.

Now if you are minnow fishing and have a split shot in between the hook/bait and the float... the "rollover" principal might not apply.

But I know winter fishing with jigs under floats, the "rollover" is often the only indication of a strike.
 
Unicam said:
This year I have gone to no float

when they hit you will feel a slight tick on the line.

This is how I was taught to jig fish. Use a sensitive jig pole and tight line. Even a tiny fish with a light bite will give you a tick. I was taught to hold 2 rods in one hand.

For spider riging we use no float and keep a close eye on the rod tips. You will see the tip move when it get's ticked.
 
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I tight line, never used a float, when the line moves in a different direction from all the other poles there is a reason for it.
 
You have to adjust the weight to the float. You want just enough weight to upright the float. This way, if lays over a little or pulls down slightly, you can tell. Are you casting the float or spider rigging?
 
Crappie feed UP so a lot of times when the crappie rises to take the flie they continue to rise and therefore the float will "fall over" or just raise up out of the water somewhat. On a slow downwards bite the float will only sink slightly. My suggestion is to keep a closer eye on your float while NOT catching fish therefore you know what is the "usual" position of your float and set the hook on anything that's out of the norm.
 
Put your weight beneath your hooks/jigs. If a fish picks the bait up, the float will fall over. If the fish takes it down, the bobber will go down.

I weight my bobbers to suit what the wind is doing. If it's blowing good, I'll sink the float deeper by adding splitshots. If it's not windy, I'll have it halfway down so if they pick it up, the bobber will lay over on its side.
 
Thanks for all the info we are fishing Bobby Garland jigs 5-6 feet deep using pear shaped plastic floats Now if all this water gets out of here i'll go try it again Thanks
 
blountcountyboy said:
Crappie feed UP so a lot of times when the crappie rises to take the flie they continue to rise and therefore the float will "fall over" or just raise up out of the water somewhat. On a slow downwards bite the float will only sink slightly. My suggestion is to keep a closer eye on your float while NOT catching fish therefore you know what is the "usual" position of your float and set the hook on anything that's out of the norm.


What he said. Sometimes the bites are hard to see and the only way you can tell they are biting is that if the float is drifting in the current or the wind it will just stop drifting. Float may not twitch, lay over, bob up, or go under just stop drifting.
 
Try this trick, we often fish jigs as light as 1/80th oz during winter.After experimenting with several floats what seems to be the best for light biters is a small weighted round float. The float has a lead weight around the very bottom end , just above where the line is clamped in. The trick is the put the float on your line "upside down". Typically the weighted portion would be down closest to the jig but with this rig put the weighted portion up and clip the unweighted portion down. when you cast it, the float will come to rest weight down which leaves the portion of line connected to the jig sticking up. When a fish applies any pressure at all the float must rotate before it can go under. We use orange and white floats and the color change of the float that occurs when it rotates is easy to see. The light biters also make it rotate as the take weight off of the setup and it rotates up. The up bite is much more subtle but with a little practice you can learn to identify it. The key is to get the smallest float that you are able to see. The weighted feature of the float also allows for longer casts and less wind resistance. Longer rods help with casting distance also. I often fish this set up on 8-8 1/2 foot rods. Hope this makes sense.I forgot to add that maximum line weight for us in winter is 4 lb test and lots of days I will fish 2 lb test. Line weight makes a big difference.
 
^^^^^^ Sounds like a great idea. Kinda upset I did not think of that.... but I do not cast jigs very much.
 
RJT said:
Try this trick, we often fish jigs as light as 1/80th oz during winter.After experimenting with several floats what seems to be the best for light biters is a small weighted round float. The float has a lead weight around the very bottom end , just above where the line is clamped in. The trick is the put the float on your line "upside down". Typically the weighted portion would be down closest to the jig but with this rig put the weighted portion up and clip the unweighted portion down. when you cast it, the float will come to rest weight down which leaves the portion of line connected to the jig sticking up. When a fish applies any pressure at all the float must rotate before it can go under. We use orange and white floats and the color change of the float that occurs when it rotates is easy to see. The light biters also make it rotate as the take weight off of the setup and it rotates up. The up bite is much more subtle but with a little practice you can learn to identify it. The key is to get the smallest float that you are able to see. The weighted feature of the float also allows for longer casts and less wind resistance. Longer rods help with casting distance also. I often fish this set up on 8-8 1/2 foot rods. Hope this makes sense.I forgot to add that maximum line weight for us in winter is 4 lb test and lots of days I will fish 2 lb test. Line weight makes a big difference.

Never thot about that. Great advice. Il try that one.
 
For winter crappie, I always go as light as you can including line, pole, and float. These fish are real subtle and while you might loose a few going really light, you probably will be able to notice a lot more action.
 

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