Gun makeover questions

SilverFox

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Oct 16, 2010
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Location
Rocky Top TN/Devil's Woodyard SC
The wife and I are expecting a son in Oct. I have my first shotgun from when I was a kid that is a 410. I also have a Ithica super single 20 gauge. Both have seen better days. I would like to strip the wood down and refinish both of them to pass along to him one day. I know there are hundreds of videos and write-ups out there but would like to get info from some one on here that has done this. Is there a book or video that you guys have used to do this? I've looked into a cold blue process to finish the metal... Of course I'm open to ideas.
 

lung-buster

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Sep 16, 2008
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Southern Middle Tn
I've blued several with the kits walmart used to sell. I usually do 4 coats and spray with gun oil. If I remember right it didn't look so good until it cured over night and then it looked fine. Once it was stripped you add a coat then rinse with water, dry and repeat until it get to the finish you like. It's kind of tedious. You ought to try it yourself first. The smaller parts were the hardest for me.
 

TNlandowner

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Mar 28, 2006
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Carroll County
Are you wanting to restore the guns or simply make them look great again? If you only want to make them look new / better, a dip is probably the easiest way to go.

I have two new Ruger American rifles being treated for my kids now. A father & son owned company in Skullbone are dipping them with awesome color patterns. After applying the color film, they put on four coats of dull clear coat sealants. The finish is "supposed" to be better than a new car's paint. I hope this is true. ;o)

There was nothing wrong with the new rifle finishes, I just wanted the kids' first guns to be unique.

Good luck
 

TNlandowner

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Mar 28, 2006
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1,511
Location
Carroll County
Here are the dip patterns (Vista hardwood camo: will have lightly pink back shades; Navy Digital Camo)

Mattiesrifledippattern_zps48d02a6e.jpg


Williamsguncamopattern_zps1ab07d1d.jpg
 

Nhill

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Sep 30, 2001
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1,780
Location
Maryville, TN
When sanding the stock, be sure to leave a butt pad on it, or else you might round off the edge where the wood meets the pad.
 

Greg M

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Feb 11, 2010
Messages
818
Location
Riverview, FL/ Bluff City, TN
Shotguns are not hot blued. They are slow rust blued. It is a time consuming process that shows in the craftsmanship. It is only slightly more expensive than hot caustic bluing, which again, would be incorrect. Cold bluing is the least protective of all finishes, and usually ends up splotchy, if that's a word. Generally speaking, rust bluing for single barrel shotguns should run you $200 or less, plus polishing and prep time. This is what slow rust bluing looks like on a Winchester 20 gauge with nickel steel barrel, generally considered the hardest metal to achieve a quality finish on:

792150_414736198613905_754286500_o_zps358260b5.jpg


Here is a Winchester Model 1906:

184473_392215424199316_1009836532_n_zps0a674088.jpg


And again, a Winchester Model 12 12 gauge:

891932_435484573205734_854093746_o_zpsa05d8d54.jpg


Hot caustic bluing didn't come around until extreme mass production in the 50s, I believe. Just about everything prior was either rust blued or carbona blued. As far as wood finishing, there are a lot of techniques that can be used. I personally prefer to raise and sand to 400 grit. Then I apply varnish to fill in wood pores. Let dry for a minimum of 12 hours. I'll sand and repeat usually 6-8 times. Then I'll apply boiled linseed oil by hand. I'll again let dry a minimum of 12 hours, then sand with 0000 steel wool and repeat usually 6-10 times until the proper finish is completed. This is why gunsmiths charge the premiums we do. A true smith will put ALOT of time into properly restoring a firearm. It is craftsmanship.

Let me know if I can help restore your family heirlooms.
 

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