gun blueing

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highway

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Dec 13, 2001
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217
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Shelbyville, TN
Does anyone have any gun blue methods that work great or would anyone like to blue my rifle in the middle tennessee area? I have it stripped for the 2nd time. The first time I tried it, I was using Birchwood Casey Super Blue. It left streaks. I don't want to mess it up again. Any help?
 
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ ... XPHO-BLUE~

Follow directions and it works really well. I apply with steel wool on matte finishes, after beadblasting. It may not be the blueing, it may be the prep work, how did you prep the metal?
Not being critical just playing devils advocate. If you don't get the surface prepped uniformly the blueing will streak, thats the reason if prefer bead blasting for the surface prep method. The super blue is more prone to streaking than others, but works well on hardened metal with higher nickel content. the brownells blueing solution is really good, more expensive but you get what you pay for in my opinion.
 
I used 1000 grit sandpaper and steelwool to get barrel to the metal. It looked great as for as being stripped then used a degreaser and alcohol to clean it. I ended up reading about both products mentioned above and think they'll do the trick. I have on the way some Outers blue. I friend of mine used it on a gun and really liked it so I am going to let him try this first since I have already ordered the product. I do have a question about the Oxpho blue. If I go over say the bolt without stripping to bare metal, will it be uniform or will it be different than the barrel that is stripped to the bare metal?
 
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I have an old beater Spanish Mauser that I re-blued bolt and all. The bolt and trigger on the old mauser did blue differently(beadblasted). I ended up getting the same finish, but had to add an extra coating of blueing on the bolt and trigger assembly. Different steels take the blueing differently and most guns are made of a mix of steel grades, anything from low carbon steel to 4140 and tool steels for some wear surfaces. I tried some oxpho on unprepped parts and the results were, well bad. The use of the steel wool (0000)to apply the oxpho seems to really be the key to getting a good finish for me personally, the cotton cloth just did'nt get the blueing into the pores of the metal good enough for me.
 
renegade50 said:
soak your metal parts after final sanding and polishing completelety in laquer thinner for 24 hrs to get out the chemicals in the metal and then do your handling and blueing wearing good quality rubber gloves

here is a video on what i use now
i have tried the cold blueing products in the past they are not all that great.

this stuff looks all kinds of streaky going on and then you use the developer and it comes out great
the trick in the application is the lightest touch possible putting it on and following the instructions exactly.
and it blends with old blueing if that is all you want to do


Home Page Blue Wonder Gun Care Products - Cleaner, Bluing and ...Blue Wonder Gun Care Products - Cleaning, Lubrication, Proctection and Refinishing products for the Care Your Guns Deserve.
www.bluewonder.us/ - 24k - Cached - Similar pages


all done with it on this kit gun except the lock and trigger
the metal was bare and in the rough and pretty nasty finger prints surface rusted and packing grease from the workers at uberti in italy
DSCF1770.jpg
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THAT LOOKS GREAT !!!
 

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