Gotta start somewhere...

[MUP]

Here's a single cavity mold I've been working on. Nothing fancy, just a 260gr projectile mold. I factored in a little shrinkage and plan to see how it turns out as soon as I can get some tire weights from my local garage.

Modeled and machined by yours truly.

Sorry for the poor pic quality. Cell phone.

 

[Brisco Darlin]

pretty cool. i've always wanting to try casting my own mz lead.

 

[quigleysharps4570]

I don't see any grease grooves so I gather you'll be using it with a sabot...what rifle you gonna be playing with?

 

[Wobblyshot1]

I wish I had your skills. One thing I noticed, though, is that big o sprue channel on the base of the bullet. How do you plan on removing it after you cast one. Most bottom pour moulds that I'm familiar with are completely open on the base with the sprue cutter acting as the bottom of the bullet. When you strike the cutter, you're left with a perfectly flat bottom.

 

[MUP]

I don't see any grease grooves so I gather you'll be using it with a sabot...what rifle you gonna be playing with?

Yes, I'll be using sabot's, and I'll be shooting either my Knight in-line, or CVA Kodiak Mag to do the testing.

 

[MUP]

I wish I had your skills. One thing I noticed, though, is that big o sprue channel on the base of the bullet. How do you plan on removing it after you cast one. Most bottom pour moulds that I'm familiar with are completely open on the base with the sprue cutter acting as the bottom of the bullet. When you strike the cutter, you're left with a perfectly flat bottom.

Keep in mind that this is just a quick proto-type single cav mold. I plan to just pry it apart from the dowels that align the two halves. I'll work on a perfected unit after some tweaking that will no doubt be called for. As for the sprue stem, I'll just trim it off by hand.

 

[MUP]

Also, I asked a fellow shooter what he thought about whether the sprue should be on the back, or front, of the bullet. He said he'd rather the front be the "flawless" end, and trim off the back, so I went with his suggestion. Plus, I intend to put a pin in the nose end to make a hollow point. Another thing, keep in mind also that I'm in no way a moldmaster and I'm just doing this off the top of my head. Lots of trial and error for me ahead I'm sure.

 

[MUP]

Well, heres my first attempt. Not that good, I've got to get the mold heated up more before I pour to keep from shelving. Don't know how much of it you can see, but it is shelving up the sides as it cools inside the mold during the pour. I can live with that as it's an easy fix.

 

[quigleysharps4570]

Nice to see someone that still ladle pours.

 

[FrontierGander]

dip part of the mold into the molten lead for a good 20-25 seconds.

 

[Beekeeper]

Well, heres my first attempt. Not that good, I've got to get the mold heated up more before I pour to keep from shelving. Don't know how much of it you can see, but it is shelving up the sides as it cools inside the mold during the pour. I can live with that as it's an easy fix.

Looks good!!

 

[MUP]

Thanks for the tip FG! But, with the small ladle, I'm afraid that would be impossible. :grin:

 

[Phil1979]

Very nice. I wish I could do that, but just don't have the skills.

 

[TennesseeJed]

Your mould will heat up depending on your casting speed. You can remelt the first couple of bullets if the wrinkles are bad or just use them for plinking.

 

[MUP]

Thanks for the tip TJ! My casting speed will no doubt pick up, once I have more lead handy.

 

[MUP]

Ok. I started pouring some this weekend, and they started out pretty good. I have picked up a melting pot(elec) and let the lead melt while the mold was hanging over the top of it to heat it up as well. But, as I went along, the quality seems to wane, well, it did wane. There were some "creases" along the nose of the bullet after I poured about 7-8. Is there such a thing as getting the lead too hot?

 

[dh1984]

Here's a single cavity mold I've been working on. Nothing fancy, just a 260gr projectile mold. I factored in a little shrinkage and plan to see how it turns out as soon as I can get some tire weights from my local garage.

Modeled and machined by yours truly.

Sorry for the poor pic quality. Cell phone.

How much would you charge for a mold just like that one in the picture?

 

[MUP]

Well, here is a bullet that has the rifling cast into it. My hopes are that the rifling will help the accuracy by keeping the bullet spinning ie stabilizing just a little more than a smooth one. Saboted bullets btw.