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PinchPoint

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Picked up a Remington 700 CDL Sf 300 wsm today. Got a scope mounted on it, and went to sight in...

First round VERY gritty and rough getting bolt to close. shot. very gritty and harder to open.
Every other round fired was the exact same.

Noticed on my brass about 1/8in up from the lip it is expanded. Both factory Remington loads...

And im assuming that Remington wont fix, because im not the original owner.

Headspacing issue?
 
Can't tell a lot with that pic. But it's not unusual to have an expansion mark above the web of the case. Have you looked in the chamber with a bore light for rust or a burr. And what does your bolt face look like, I've seen some of the new 700's with very rough machined bolt faces. That definitely gives the gritty feel you describe.
 
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I agree give it a good cleaning if not already done so. Might also try another brand of ammo could be an ammo issiue.
 
Clean the chamber good, clean the bolt face and put a dab of oil in the ejector hole, oil/grease the bolt shroud threads and track that the cocking piece rides in and grease the faces of the locking lugs. Report back after you've done that and let me know how it feels.
 
Cleaned everything as best I could, Nothing was bad dirty because the gun hasnt been shot much at all. It made the Accutip loads chamber almost normal.

The Corelokts are still so rough, it feels like your going the break the bolt trying to load and unload them
 
PinchPoint, I'm thinking your problem is more than likely an issue with the bolt face area, ejector, extractor, locking lugs or a squareness issue. Look if you close your bolt on an empty chamber and it closes smoothly and you can pull the trigger and it fires, then everything is line up. Now when a loaded round is put in and you can't get the bolt closed you've got improperly sized ammo or dirt or debris or a component stopping the camming of the bolt. Check the case head for scrapping or galling marks on the brass. You could also take a fired case, clean it thouraly and then take a black sharpie marker and completely paint the case with it. When dry ease the case into the chamber and close the bolt as far as you can. Slowly remove the case not letting the ejector kicking the case into the floor. Examin the case carefully. Look for gouges and scratches
 
7mminatree":2xjc3cy9 said:
PinchPoint, I'm thinking your problem is more than likely an issue with the bolt face area, ejector, extractor, locking lugs or a squareness issue. Look if you close your bolt on an empty chamber and it closes smoothly and you can pull the trigger and it fires, then everything is line up. Now when a loaded round is put in and you can't get the bolt closed you've got improperly sized ammo or dirt or debris or a component stopping the camming of the bolt. Check the case head for scrapping or galling marks on the brass. You could also take a fired case, clean it thouraly and then take a black sharpie marker and completely paint the case with it. When dry ease the case into the chamber and close the bolt as far as you can. Slowly remove the case not letting the ejector kicking the case into the floor. Examin the case carefully. Look for gouges and scratches
Click to expand...
Without and ammo in it, It functions fine. However I cant even got the bot to close on a fired case.. I guess where they have expanded at that line in the pic.
May take it to a gunsmith for help fixing the problem, just not sure of a reputable one in Knoxville
 
And to add to it, It is a recall trigger model. And the fluting on the barrel is horrible. Looks like a child could do better with a file
 
7mminatree":32r3nujj said:
A good smith can tell what's going on. With all the flaws with this rifle why did you buy it.
Click to expand...
Gun funtions fine without ammo in it, and dint notice how off the flutes were until i removed the scope
 
They run slightly diagonally down the barrel, and are deeper and wider in spaces. Ive held other CDL SFs and the fluting is MUCH better. guess this one got some bad QC
 
I know from reading a bunch of Internet forums that Remmy was letting a lot of 700s get out of the factory with abysmal QC. Some guns never had a finishing reamer run in the chamber, and the metal work and fit and finish was terrible. Seems like it started shortly after their parent company bought them, Marlin, Bushmaster, Para Ordinance, and some others. Supposedly things have gotten better, but I would bet that your gun was from that era.
 
Kimberman":1pbefpmy said:
I know from reading a bunch of Internet forums that Remmy was letting a lot of 700s get out of the factory with abysmal QC. Some guns never had a finishing reamer run in the chamber, and the metal work and fit and finish was terrible. Seems like it started shortly after their parent company bought them, Marlin, Bushmaster, Para Ordinance, and some others. Supposedly things have gotten better, but I would bet that your gun was from that era.
Click to expand...


I'd bet that this is correct. I'd get that rifle to a good gunsmith and have it checked.
 
I have been a Remington fan all of my life until the last few years. Their QC sucks now. I had a bad experience with a 5R that I finally got them to buy back and that has done me on their new rifles. Their actions now are nothing like the ones from the 70's-80's era.
 
2 problems

#1 your chamber is cut off center- that isn't the end of the world. I have a .280 that is like that with the uneven wear above the web, yet it still shoots lights out. Not ideal certainly, but functional.

#2 your chamber is rough. Either pitted, burred, or has trash in it. Get some JB bore paste, put it on a 20g cleaning mop, and put it on a short cleaning rod and chuck the end in a drill. Spin till smooth.

Then the question is whether the barrel is worth a hoot or not after that.

I'm a HUGE fan of Remmies... but I don't think I'd ever buy one manufactured after 2000 or so. The early 80's rifles are the best you can get for the money.
 
Are you sure the scope mount screw isn't too long and dragging on the bolt lug? If it were just barely touching, the bolt could shift to the side with no round in the chamber to restrain it, therefor letting the bolt work smooth on an empty chamber but drag on the screw with a round. If this is happening, there would be a radial mark along the outside surface of the top bolt lug.

The bulged case is nothing to be concerned about. I have several rifles that do that - it can't cause a stiff rotating bolt.

So far, I've not had any of these quality problems with Remington 700's. My 700 CDL stainless flutted is a 2010 model and it shoots great(.6 moa two loads), has a 3 1/4lb trigger and the workmanship is fine for a factory rifle.
 
Pinchpoint, where did you get this rifle? I am also wondering about a wrong bolt and head spacing issue. Check the numbers on the bolt and let us know.
 

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