Good article on hinge cutting

JCDEERMAN

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I much prefer H&S over hinge cutting. What happens after around the two year point, the tree is still alive and its branches grow straight up and shades out the understory, to where there is essentially no forage or cover at the ground level. Hinge cutting is ONLY good if you are trying to create cover immediately
 

JCDEERMAN

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docpoco":3oi2af5x said:
JCDEERMAN":3oi2af5x said:
I much prefer H&S over hinge cutting. What happens after around the two year point, the tree is still alive and its branches grow straight up and shades out the understory, to where there is essentially no forage or cover at the ground level. Hinge cutting is ONLY good if you are trying to create cover immediately

It seems like there are some really qualified folks who prefer both. It's very confusing.

From what I've seen, part of the problem with hinge cutting is people cut too high. If you cut so that the trunk is at waist or belly level, it will certainly act as cover beyond 2 years.

And the negatives of hack and squirt are obviously at some point those trees are going to fall, probably unpredictably - and the cover isn't immediate. But then seems to be better for ground cover long term.

So, I wonder if a combination of H/S and Hinge cutting is a good idea. Best of both worlds?
You will still have fairly quick cover using H&S depending on when you do it - there won't be any foliage on the trees, therefore sunlight will be hitting the ground creating native browse and grasses. As far as not knowing when the trees will fall, that could be a concern, but very unlikely. I do this in areas that are created for sanctuaries / and the trees I treat are no bigger than my thigh (mostly in areas we have select cut in the past).

I just passed my online course to become a TN prescribed fire burn manager - will take the field work course at the end of February. It will be interesting to see what trees the fire will kill effectively and what I will have to treat H&S. Another reason for me using H&S and not hinge-cutting - There will be constant fuel in these burn areas if I continue to hinge-cut what the fire doesn't kill every couple years. By H&S, one time treatment after a fire (the ones the fire doesn't kill), those trees will die and fall given a couple years, then I will go back and burn around year 3 or 4, burn up all the fuel.....and I am left with nothing but grasses and forbs......White and Red oaks every 15-20 yards apart dropping acorns, and nothing but native grasses underneath. Food/Cover......I won't enter these areas unless to retrieve a deer - about 100 acres in total (9 areas)
 

DoubleRidge

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Middle Tennessee
JCDEERMAN":xnsrgnrd said:
docpoco":xnsrgnrd said:
JCDEERMAN":xnsrgnrd said:
I much prefer H&S over hinge cutting. What happens after around the two year point, the tree is still alive and its branches grow straight up and shades out the understory, to where there is essentially no forage or cover at the ground level. Hinge cutting is ONLY good if you are trying to create cover immediately

It seems like there are some really qualified folks who prefer both. It's very confusing.

From what I've seen, part of the problem with hinge cutting is people cut too high. If you cut so that the trunk is at waist or belly level, it will certainly act as cover beyond 2 years.

And the negatives of hack and squirt are obviously at some point those trees are going to fall, probably unpredictably - and the cover isn't immediate. But then seems to be better for ground cover long term.

So, I wonder if a combination of H/S and Hinge cutting is a good idea. Best of both worlds?
You will still have fairly quick cover using H&S depending on when you do it - there won't be any foliage on the trees, therefore sunlight will be hitting the ground creating native browse and grasses. As far as not knowing when the trees will fall, that could be a concern, but very unlikely. I do this in areas that are created for sanctuaries / and the trees I treat are no bigger than my thigh (mostly in areas we have select cut in the past).

I just passed my online course to become a TN prescribed fire burn manager - will take the field work course at the end of February. It will be interesting to see what trees the fire will kill effectively and what I will have to treat H&S. Another reason for me using H&S and not hinge-cutting - There will be constant fuel in these burn areas if I continue to hinge-cut what the fire doesn't kill every couple years. By H&S, one time treatment after a fire (the ones the fire doesn't kill), those trees will die and fall given a couple years, then I will go back and burn around year 3 or 4, burn up all the fuel.....and I am left with nothing but grasses and forbs......White and Red oaks every 15-20 yards apart dropping acorns, and nothing but native grasses underneath. Food/Cover......I won't enter these areas unless to retrieve a deer - about 100 acres in total (9 areas)

Same for us. Many of the larger less desirable trees were cut for timber then we applied H&S to smaller trees thigh size and smaller. Some white and red oak were strategically selected for harvest and many were left. Working with a Forester was extremely helpful with the entire process.

Totally agree with your approach to creating refuge areas.... truly believe it's a step that many land managers overlook..... giving deer areas to go with absolutely no human pressure should be a part of every management plan IMO.

Look forward to hearing more about your progress burning and what you learn about the effects of burning on certain tree species.

Now if we can just catch a break with all the rain.
 

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