Fruit tree pictures

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spoon

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Oct 5, 2004
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Bartlett, TN
Into my 3rd year of planting bare root fruit and most are doing pretty good. These are all planted on a 40 acre bean field out of the farmers way and in site of stands

This one isn't doing good, don't know why. It has looked like this all spring
Stark Bothers Double Delicious, self-pollinating, ripens late Sept. to mid-Oct.
fayettecopictures057.jpg


other Double Delicious trees
fayettecopictures059.jpg


fayettecopictures072.jpg


Earliblaze Apple: pollinates with Red Rome Beauty, ripens in Mid-August.
Planted this one by a thicket going to the bedding area

fayettecopictures065.jpg



Red Rome Beauty Apple: pollinates with Earliblaze, ripens in Mid-Oct.
Planted this for a new bow stand site

fayettecopictures066.jpg


Keifer Pear:Second season and already have pears

fayettecopictures062.jpg


fayettecopictures063.jpg


Bartlett Pear: second season also
fayettecopictures064.jpg


Asin Pears
Shinseiki Pear: planted this spring
Need to spray for the Johnson grass
fayettecopictures060.jpg


Large Korean Pear: planted this season
Not looking good, but showing some growth at the bottom. Will prune this winter if still alive

fayettecopictures061.jpg


Didn't plant the Persimmons...just wanted to show the early fruit
fayettecopictures071.jpg
 
Just some suggestions if you want them.

On the apples, some heavy pruning could be done when they go dormant to get those trees back to one central leader. This can also spur vigorous growth next Spring. I know it hurts to cut off wood but it will greatly help production if you develop a good strong tree based off a central leader instead of many leaders.
On the pears, again a central leader is your best bet for a good strong tree that will ensure great prodcution for many years. That first pear that is leaning really needs to be staked up straight and pruned back. If not it very well could start a leaning growth habit and uproot itself. Once they get that high, you either have to prune them back down shorter until the roots and main trunk catch up or use long conduit to keep the top straight. On the pear with the dead top, check to see if that new growth is above or below the graft. If its below, you wont get anything but pear rootstock. If its above then it will be of the variety you bought.
Anyways just some helpful tips. I really like to see folks planting fruit for wildlife. Its definitely going to pay off for you.
 
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smstone22 said:
Just some suggestions if you want them.

On the apples, some heavy pruning could be done when they go dormant to get those trees back to one central leader. This can also spur vigorous growth next Spring. I know it hurts to cut off wood but it will greatly help production if you develop a good strong tree based off a central leader instead of many leaders.
On the pears, again a central leader is your best bet for a good strong tree that will ensure great prodcution for many years. That first pear that is leaning really needs to be staked up straight and pruned back. If not it very well could start a leaning growth habit and uproot itself. Once they get that high, you either have to prune them back down shorter until the roots and main trunk catch up or use long conduit to keep the top straight. On the pear with the dead top, check to see if that new growth is above or below the graft. If its below, you wont get anything but pear rootstock. If its above then it will be of the variety you bought.
Anyways just some helpful tips. I really like to see folks planting fruit for wildlife. Its definitely going to pay off for you.

Great info, thanks.
 

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