Foliar application herbicide help

[BSK]

Although I have considerable experience with herbicide use for hack-and-squirt Timber Stand Improvement projects, I have very little experience with large-scale use of foliar application herbicides to knock back hardwood/broadleaf saplings. Anyone have any recommendations for the best herbicides for backpack-sprayer applications to knock these saplings back, as well as timing?

What I'm trying to accomplish is to prevent patches of heavily thinned timber from regenerating into hardwood forest. In the areas where timber was cut the hardest (leaving few if any trees standing), I would like to keep the habitat in the earliest stages of regeneration, when the sites are dominated by tall-grasses and annual weeds. To do this, I'll have to kill all of the hardwood saplings that will rapidly fill these areas. I realize fire is probably the most biologically sound way of accomplishing this but considering the patchiness of the areas I would like to work with, the incredible steepness of the terrain (many areas exceeding a 45-degree slope), and the inability to put crews and equipment together to run a proper fire, I would like to attempt simply spraying the areas in question with a backpack sprayer and see what can be produced.

I've noticed the TVA is now backpack spot-spraying the power-line right-of-ways instead of mowing, and the habitat produced is phenomenally productive for wildlife. I would like to produce patches of similar habitat.

 

[BSK]

...or if anyone has contact information for the crews working the TVA powerline ROWs, that would also be a help. I would love to learn their system and chemical mixtures.

 

[JCDEERMAN]

I looked into this a while back and Imazapyr seemed to be what would work best for foliar applications. Could be wrong, but that's what I bought and plan to use.

Another thought, may want to contact someone with TDOT. I've been driving down the road soon after they've sprayed the sides of the roads and I can't believe everything it killed. Everything was brown. I've always thought about calling them to figure out what they use or recommend.

Whatever you end up with let us know. I've got to do the same with the saplings in our newly cut areas

 

[DoubleRidge]

I believe TVA has a vegetation manager by region....years ago I contacted him to discuss food plots on the easement....he was very nice and helpful....I've long since lost that contact but I believe you can reach out to the right of way management team on the TVA website and they will connect you with someone who can answer questions about the chemicals they use.

 

[bigjohn]

A lot of good information is provided from UT you can search their website and find a lot of contacts and info on these type things. Here is a link with a lot of things about what and when to spray. https://extension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/PB1580.pdf

 

[Popcorn]

Garlon 4
Add a surfactant
Works best during a growth stage but works most of the season. Also works as a hack & squirt for larger stuff.
It's brutal

 

[BSK]

You da MAN Popcorn! Any idea on mixing rate for foliar application?

 

[BSK]

I looked into this a while back and Imazapyr seemed to be what would work best for foliar applications. Could be wrong, but that's what I bought and plan to use.

Imazapyr works well, but it is best used in fall, when water is going down into the roots. Also a tad concerned by reading how long it will stay active in the soil.

 

[MickThompson]

Garlon 4
Add a surfactant
Works best during a growth stage but works most of the season. Also works as a hack & squirt for larger stuff.
It's brutal

That's what I was going to recommend. Imazapyr is good too.

 

[BSK]

I may try both actually. It would be a good comparison. A couple of areas sprayed with Garlon 4 versus a couple areas with Imazapyr.

 

[MickThompson]

I may try both actually. It would be a good comparison. A couple of areas sprayed with Garlon 4 versus a couple areas with Imazapyr.

If you have problems with pines, don't spray imazapyr in those areas

 

[squackattack]

Imazpyr is soil active and could be a problem if you have residual hardwood trees. Garlon would be better for that.

 

[BSK]

Imazpyr is soil active and could be a problem if you have residual hardwood trees. Garlon would be better for that.

That's exactly what I was worried about with Imazapyr.

 

[BSK]

If you have problems with pines, don't spray imazapyr in those areas

Actually, the fact we planted some of these cut areas in pines is why I was interested in Imazapyr. I don't want to kill my pines (4,000 of them).

In a 90% hardwood environment, a few 3-5 acre patches of young pines are a gold mine for hunting.

 

[slicksbeagles1]

This might give you some ideas I know there are different versions of this stuff

 

[BSK]

Seems like tryclopyr is a common recommendation.

 

[Deck78]

...or if anyone has contact information for the crews working the TVA powerline ROWs, that would also be a help. I would love to learn their system and chemical mixtures.

Try Micah Livingston for regional TVA tower mgmt. I met him out at our farm in Hickman by sheer accident and we chatted a while and he gave me his cell. He was super helpful! 731-733-1055

 

[BSK]

Thanks so much Deck78!

 

[TNlandowner]

...or if anyone has contact information for the crews working the TVA powerline ROWs, that would also be a help. I would love to learn their system and chemical mixtures.

PM sent

 

[BSK]

Got it, thanks!

 

[megalomaniac]

yup, triclopyr is the way to go.... but it may knock back your broadleaf annual forbs in addition to the hardwoods regen... no big deal, as soil residual is only a couple weeks and the greenbrier and catbrier can regrow pretty quickly.

If you want to go scorched earth, mix it with roundup (around the bases of your shooting houses to keep privet and weeds away. If you want to kill the snot out of everything except grasses, mix it with 2,4D (we do that on many of our fencerows).

 

[BSK]

Great info Mega. Thanks.

 

[RxHunter]

Great info Mega. Thanks.

Like others have mentioned, I have used triclopyr. The rate I use is 4oz per gallon in a back pack sprayer. I also soak every leaf I can. That may be over kill but rather be safe. I have sprayed sweet gums in August-September and they turn brown pretty quick. Can also tell because their dead leaves don't fall off in winter.

 

[BSK]

Like others have mentioned, I have used triclopyr. The rate I use is 4oz per gallon in a back pack sprayer. I also soak every leaf I can. That may be over kill but rather be safe. I have sprayed sweet gums in August-September and they turn brown pretty quick. Can also tell because their dead leaves don't fall off in winter.

Interesting, thanks for the tips.

 

[Farm manager]

Seems like tryclopyr is a common recommendation.

Triclopyr is the chemical name for Garlon or Remedy and seem to be the safest, effective treatment available.