do u mount your own scopes

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pseshooter300

pseshooter300

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Do you mount your own scopes? Do your torque and level? Like some advice would like to get the equipment to do this myself
 
do all my own - torque wrench, loctite, made a set of alignment bars out of some alum round stock, small level, and lapping tool
 
I do all mine, I use a [color:#000099]Wheeler Engineering[/color] scope mounting st up. It has torque wrench, lapping bars, levels, etc.

I use "hard as nails" clear fingernail polish on the base screws, nothing on the ring screws. Make sure you degrease the holes and screws before you torque everything down, if you leave oil on them, they will shoot loose.
 
It is not very difficult or expensive to do it yourself. The new laser bore siters are very reasonably priced.
I will past on 1 tip for everyone. There are many types of Loctite.The Blue 242 would be the preferred type to use before assemblely You will be able to remove the scope if needed at some time in the Future.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/15/ ... ue-242.htm

The green 290 is good if something is already put together and tight. It will wick down into the threads after a screw is tight.
The Red 271 is the hardest to break loose. It is for extreme vibration and shock.I wouldn't recomend using it unless you know you'll never want a screw out (scope bases) or unless you have a very big gun, full auto, ect. where screws coming loose is a problem.

I had to go to Loctite school a few years back for my job. Check out their site lots of good info.
 
ratsnakeboogy said:
I do all mine, I use a [color:#000099]Wheeler Engineering[/color] scope mounting st up. It has torque wrench, lapping bars, levels, etc.

I use "hard as nails" clear fingernail polish on the base screws, nothing on the ring screws. Make sure you degrease the holes and screws before you torque everything down, if you leave oil on them, they will shoot loose.
Click to expand...

Ditto on the Wheeler Mounting kit, I bought one a few yrs back, one of the best investments I ever paid for.

As far as loctite/oil/no oil.....................I use the purple loctite supplied with the kit on all base mount screws. I was watching the Leupold U tube video the other day and they recommend lightly oiling the threads on the ring cap screws to provide even torguing. I have never had a mount shoot loose on any gun I ever mounted a scope on and I have over 50 or more over the yrs.

FDXX75
 
I always mount my own to get the desired eye relief and the correct feel for me effect. I also use the hard as nails clear finger nail polish on the mount screws. I have used the small levels but generally don't use them. NOT SURE why but when I use the levels the cross hairs just aren't level after I shoulder the rifle and look through the scope. I'm sure it's how I hold my rifle but it works for me.
I have shouldered some of my friends rifles and the eye relief has been off. When you mount your own I think you get that custom fit for you.
 
Not sure why the purple 222 is not on their site ??? The 222 is low Strength and one of the easiest to break loose if you plan on removing screws at some time.
 
7mm08 said:
pressfit said:
All you need is a vise, allen wrenches and a plumb bob..
Click to expand...

Now you have torqued my interest....how do you use a plumb bob? Center it and then mark it on the rings? Sorry, stupid about certain stuff...thanks
Click to expand...
I actually left out one important tool needed.. a level..
clamp the rifle in a vise, level it left to right or side to side what ever you want to call it.. hang a plumb bob and put the scope in the rings but not tight enough that you cant rotate the scope.. look through the scope until the plumb bob string is in the cross hairs... then rotate the scope to line up with the string.. thats it.. perfect lined up scope with no cant... :)
 
I bought the leveling kit, but end up not using it most of the time. I usually eyeball mine by shouldering it several times to check that reticle is level, and the eye relief is correct. I make sure to tighten the screws evenly and have not had any problems with loose mounts or accuracy.

I've mounted scopes on everything I've had from 17 HMR to a .300 wby mag with no issues. I have resorted to shouldering my gun and moving it horizontally toward the door facing to see if the vertical crosshair hits top and bottom at the same time for a quick level check. :grin:
 
I also have the Wheeler scope mounting kit and mount my own scopes. It's been well worth the money. I did find the cheap plastic 2-piece level system in the Wheeler kit to be just about worthless, though.
 
pressfit said:
All you need is a vise, allen wrenches and a plumb bob..
Click to expand...

Yeah, I think a plumb bob is a lot better than trying to center a bubble in a level. Just get the rifle with a flat level surface under the forend and align the verticle croshair with the plumb bob string and you are about as good as you can get.
 
The only trouble I've had with a scope I've mounted was on my 460 Weatherby. I used Leupold mounts with dovetail front base and the windage adjustment rear base - i.e. the standard mounts. It just took about 4 or 5 shots until the scope walked forward and pulled the rear ring completely off the rear base. The underside of the windage adjustment screws deformed and let go. I took it to a gunshop and showed them what happened and they came up with some thicker head screws and installed them and it's held ever since. I've shot about 350-400 shots since then.

Funny thing is that I was planning on buy this rifle and having it rechambered to the 510 Barnes Supreme to get a little more horsepower than the standard 460W. After that 1st day of touching off the 500 grain Hornady Solids @ 2,700fps, I decided that it would do as it came from the factory. :)
 

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