Food Plots Disc type

[Mr. Hawk]

Been thinking about getting a disk for foodplot/habitat/cutting fire breaks, etc and wanted to know if I should get a 3 point type for for 50hp tractor that the tractor can lift up, I was thinking a 6 foote. I also know of an older pull behind hydrolic 8' disk for $800, see pic.

Looking for thoughts on these or anyone ran both and recommend one over the other?

 

[MickThompson]

I'd rather have a heavy pull behind like an Athens. You can always trim it up but angle iron framed units sometimes aren't heavy enough to cut especially 3 pt hitch models. You're basically limited to the downforce that your hydraulics can generate

 

[backyardtndeer]

Before I got my tiller, I always used my pull behind disc, hydraulic lift with my 47 hp kubota. It's a jd model disc and is quite heavy. Some of those 3 pt discs are often not heavy enough to be very efficient.

 

[DoubleRidge]

Our 3-point hitch doesnt have hydraulic downforce, most dont. It's dependant on the implements own weight. So the arms will not push down. Adding weight to the disk is what most people do. The bigger pull behind, being heavier, will prob cut better...but the 6 foot 3pt will be easier to navigate in tight spots and will still get the job done....you may just need to add some weight.

 

[square]

As said above, the weight is what affects cutting. I pull a 6 foot Woods brand behind a 46 hp John Deere. I think it weighs 900 lbs. It cuts pretty well.

 

[skipperbrown]

3pt is nice if you are doing food plots and don't have a lot of room to turn around and don't require hydraulics. Be careful going up a steep hill with them and flip your tractor.

 

[FTG-05]

To make my 5' disc cut, I had to put a 450 lbs concrete weight block on it.

 

[deerhunter10]

Pull type. We have a jd and a taylor way. We do have a 8 ft 3 at hitch john deer. But its heavy and old.

 

[Popcorn]

I'd rather have a heavy pull behind like an Athens. You can always trim it up but angle iron framed units sometimes aren't heavy enough to cut especially 3 pt hitch models. You're basically limited to the downforce that your hydraulics can generate

Not all tractors have "down draft" the case 100 and 120 tractors I often use do not and it can be a problem. I use a pasture renovator to disrupt compaction down to about 7 or 8 inches but have to add a huge chunk of concrete to keep it in the ground.
I much prefer a pull type disc. I believe the model in the picture has a mechanism on the tongue that allows you to level it or load the front gangs to improve cut. Very similar to ours .

 

[TRHC]

I prefer a chisel plow over a disc any day for smaller/lighter tractors, especially if you have ANY grass to deal with. Ready to plant in one pass. A lightweight disc doesn't even compare.

 

[BSK]

I prefer a chisel plow over a disc any day for smaller/lighter tractors, especially if you have ANY grass to deal with. Ready to plant in one pass. A lightweight disc doesn't even compare. View attachment 312908View attachment 312909
View attachment 312907

That's a great setup TRHC. The cultipacker behind the chisel plow in one pass is a great idea.

Back before I used a tiller to break up my concrete-hard food plots, I tried a 3-point hitch disk, a pull behind disk, and a chisel plow. None of them did much except chatter across the surface. The tiller was the trick, moving very, VERY slowly. And it was definitely hard on the tiller (lots of rock). But after tilling the plots a time or two, I no longer turn the soil at all. The tiller did what I wanted - loosened the soil enough to hold moisture during the dry summer months. Now I use throw-and-mow, and all the mulch mowed down helps hold moisture in the soil during the dry summer months.

 

[tellico4x4]

I prefer a chisel plow over a disc any day for smaller/lighter tractors, especially if you have ANY grass to deal with. Ready to plant in one pass. A lightweight disc doesn't even compare. View attachment 312908View attachment 312909
View attachment 312907

Like the set-up but how do you move it to different locations?

 

[TRHC]

Like the set-up but how do you move it to different locations?

I tote the cultipacker with the loader and drop it while I'm doing my plowing (the tongue is removable). When I'm ready to pack, I attach the packer to the plow with a short chain and a pin. While my packer is 3pt compatible, doing it this way keeps me from hooking and unhooking multiple times between the plow and the packer.

 

[square]

I prefer a chisel plow over a disc any day for smaller/lighter tractors, especially if you have ANY grass to deal with. Ready to plant in one pass. A lightweight disc doesn't even compare. View attachment 312908View attachment 312909
View attachment 312907

I actually chisel plow followed by disking. It may be overkill but I sure do get a good seed bed.

 

[square]

I broke this part on my taylor way plow. Any idea whereI might find one?

 

[deerhunter10]

I prefer a chisel plow over a disc any day for smaller/lighter tractors, especially if you have ANY grass to deal with. Ready to plant in one pass. A lightweight disc doesn't even compare.

Before we went to no till. We would chisel our fall plots early to mid summer and let them lay then reapray then disc. It added some steps but it did great. If we feel like we have compaction we still will chisel.

 

[deerhunter10]

I broke this part on my taylor way plow. Any idea whereI might find one?View attachment 313027

Im not sure if they make them still. Find a dealer. Or a machine shop should be able to make one easy.

 

[Popcorn]

I broke this part on my taylor way plow. Any idea whereI might find one?View attachment 313027

An Amish welding shop can either repair it or make another.

 

[Granddaddy]

The problem I've had with disc harrows & cultipackers over time is always the bearings. No matter how much they are greased they have to be replaced over time. Effective equipment, but maintenance required continuously - at least that's been my experience. I'm the last few years since my plots are established, I've been renting the grain drill at the co-op for milo & corn, and using a drag harrow for clover & small grains.