CVA Optima question

[Big Ben]

Never having a ML that used a bare 209 primer like the Optima how hard is it to remove a spent primer. Do you need a special tool like a small pick to remove one.

 

[pockets]

I have never had a problem using fingers. Flicks just right out.

 

[Jcalder]

I had some trouble getting them out using an oring. But since I ditched the oring no more trouble


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[user 14220]

Just pick them out with your fingers. On my CVA its pretty easy to do.

 

[Big Ben]

Thanks Yall....that's good to know. The full plastic jacket on my Knight MK 85 can be a bear to unload the primer. Even with the straight capper tool it will drive you up the wall at times.

 

[hillbillyfab]

I don't have an Optima, but my Wolf has been easy since day one.

 

[wsm]

Use my figures on my optima.

 

[GMB54]

Thanks Yall....that's good to know. The full plastic jacket on my Knight MK 85 can be a bear to unload the primer. Even with the straight capper tool it will drive you up the wall at times.

Simple fix, just swap it back to a percussion cap. Although, i had a LK93 with the FPJ and it was never hard to remove.

 

[GMB54]

I had some trouble getting them out using an oring. But since I ditched the oring no more trouble


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The oring causes the primer to stick further out of the primer pocket in the plug. The further it sticks out, the easier it is to expand the wall of the primer. A worn flash hole and carbon in the flash channel will also make it much worse.

The CORRECT fix is the firing pin bushing shim kit and a .003 crush on the primer. It only takes a few minutes to install them. The only negative is you need to use the same brand of primer or at least one that is very close in length. If you get too much crush the hammer wont pull back or it can even slam fire on closing.

I know a guy that will modify the regular CVA QRBP to work better than the BH209 plug. He opens up the flash channel to 5/32 and adds a vent liner to replace the flash hole. The modified plug has more channel volume so less pressure reaches the primer when the powder ignites and you simply replace the vent liner when the flash hole gets too large.

BTW, you should try the Fiocchi primers with that oring. They are short and fat primers. They also work fine with BH209 and they are usually cheaper.

 

[Jcalder]

I had some trouble getting them out using an oring. But since I ditched the oring no more trouble


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The oring causes the primer to stick further out of the primer pocket in the plug. The further it sticks out, the easier it is to expand the wall of the primer. A worn flash hole and carbon in the flash channel will also make it much worse.

The CORRECT fix is the firing pin bushing shim kit and a .003 crush on the primer. It only takes a few minutes to install them. The only negative is you need to use the same brand of primer or at least one that is very close in length. If you get too much crush the hammer wont pull back or it can even slam fire on closing.

I know a guy that will modify the regular CVA QRBP to work better than the BH209 plug. He opens up the flash channel to 5/32 and adds a vent liner to replace the flash hole. The modified plug has more channel volume so less pressure reaches the primer when the powder ignites and you simply replace the vent liner when the flash hole gets too large.

BTW, you should try the Fiocchi primers with that oring. They are short and fat primers. They also work fine with BH209 and they are usually cheaper.

this was in a new gun with a new plug. I looked for a shim kit but they were sold out. Hopefully after season I can get a set cause I'd rather have something a little more permanent than the oring


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk