Cut stump treatment & Hack-&-squirt applications

[JCDEERMAN]

I have done a lot of hack-&-squirt in the past and seem to have around a 50% success rate. This past year, whatever I did didn't work LOL. Most of the work I've done is throughout hardwoods just to create more sunlight to the ground. However, we are fixing to start a logging operation and select-cutting roughly 50 acres total. We plan on spraying as many of the cut stumps as we possibly can and hack-&-squirting the rest of the junk trees. We can not afford to have a 50% success rate on this amount of acreage. Could you pros out there educate me on the right applications (specifically) on the amount of herbicide AND amount of water/bean oil/diesel you are mixing it with?

Cut Stump Treatment:
These cut stumps will be sprayed around the cambium layer 1-3 weeks after they are cut (I know - the sooner the better), But I've had some of you folks tell me to mix with some diesel to penetrate if it has been a while.
If I am making 1 gallon, 1) What type of herbicide and how much? 2) Which (water/bean oil/diesel) and how much?

Hack-&-Squirt:
I typically do one hack per 3" of diameter of the tree
If I am making 1 gallon, 1) What type herbicide and how much? 2) The rest water?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Antler Daddy]

I've read that stump sprouts are the most nutritious forage and high in protein

.

 

[megalomaniac]

Triclopyr amine 10% in diesel will serve you well.

We carry a bottle of the bayer advance brush killer in the back of our farm gators. When we cut an undesired sapling (cedar, Hackberry, locust, and esp bodock), we just spray the base of the stump. Nothing regrows... the triclopyr is awesome stuff without an insane residual in the soil.

 

[DoubleRidge]

Following this thread.....we contracted our hack-n-squirt out on last year's project (large area I couldn't imagine doing myself in a reasonable amount of time).....but would like to learn more about doing it myself on future smaller projects.

 

[BSK]

Also following this thread. I've had good results with a variety of chemicals for killing smaller trees with hack-and-squirt. But for the life of me, I can't find anything that will kill big mature trees, especially big mature Beeches and Mountain Chestnut Oaks.

 

[nwsg76]

This is a great resource. Just Google and download for free..

 

[JCDEERMAN]

View attachment 64015
This is a great resource. Just Google and download for free..

Thanks, nwsg76. Just read through that and posted the link below for others. My Cliff notes synopsis - it looks to me that using both the hack-&-squirt method AND the cut stump treatment calls for 50% Glyphosate and the other 50% water. Also for stumps that weren't treated immediately after cutting, Garlon 4 mixed at 10% with an oil carrier (I'm assuming bean oil or diesel) will do the trick. Does that sound correct?

I used triclopyr (Brushtox) in August and it didn't seem to affect them whatsoever, but I think my percentage of triclopyr I was using was way low.

Link to nwsg76's article:

https://www.nrs.fs.fed.us/pubs/gtr/gtr_nrs96.pdf

 

[WanderingNomad]

I have had good success with Tordon being sprayed on the freshly cut stumps to kill the roots etc..

 

[BSK]

I've tried high concentrate glysophate, Imazapyr and Garlon 4 in hack-and-squirt. So far, best results have been high concentrate glysophate, although as previously stated, I've found nothing that will kill big mature trees. Make them sick, yes. Kill them, no.

Next year I'm going to experiment with 2-4D

 

[nwsg76]

Tree species vary in how the chemical affects. Please read the label of any herbicides. Also ask questions from a professional. I.e. glyphosate will work on red maple....but not very well. A imazapic application is warranted on maple. But there are some species that don't uptake imazapic well either. There is no silver bullet.
When doing cut stump treatments...apply with 5 to 10 minutes of cut if using water for carrier is preferred. If its going to longer....use oil as carrier.
There are several forestry consultants across TN that do this kind of work at a reasonable cost. If you interested in doing many acres with financial assistance from NRCS and willing to get or following a forest management plan...give me a holler. I will get you in contact with the right people to help evaluate your project.

 

[nwsg76]

For a triclopyr mix....I prefer a 30% tryclopyr 4a mix. 38 ounces of chemical with 90 ounces of diesel to make a gallon. Spray the outer 2 inches of the stump surface. This method allows you to be surgical and only apply to target.

 

[Deck78]

Tree species vary in how the chemical affects. Please read the label of any herbicides. Also ask questions from a professional. I.e. glyphosate will work on red maple....but not very well. A imazapic application is warranted on maple. But there are some species that don't uptake imazapic well either. There is no silver bullet.
When doing cut stump treatments...apply with 5 to 10 minutes of cut if using water for carrier is preferred. If its going to longer....use oil as carrier.
There are several forestry consultants across TN that do this kind of work at a reasonable cost. If you interested in doing many acres with financial assistance from NRCS and willing to get or following a forest management plan...give me a holler. I will get you in contact with the right people to help evaluate your project.

I am chatting with Jonathan Boggs about helping out at our place and he definitely suggested getting some assistance from NRCS since we have a 575 acre tract with far too many pines and are having a hard time securing a contract to help rid the pines. We are going to need some creative help for sure! We have a logger working to secure a contract but we have more pines than the 2 mills are willing to handle

 

[Moonman]

I would recommend a forester to help, and the nrcs has funding. One thing usually with nrcs is you have to have a forestry plan. When we did hack and squirt we used a 5 or 6% solution of imazypur I think. It was a 4sl. If you use the 2sl it's going to be more. We killed big privet, good size maple, sweet gum. I want to say it's a hack and squirt for each 3 inches in diameter. Some of the bigger stuff required multiple hacks.

 

[DoubleRidge]

I am chatting with Jonathan Boggs about helping out at our place and he definitely suggested getting some assistance from NRCS since we have a 575 acre tract with far too many pines and are having a hard time securing a contract to help rid the pines. We are going to need some creative help for sure! We have a logger working to secure a contract but we have more pines than the 2 mills are willing to handle

Jonathan is who we worked with on our project which included NRCS assistance for hack-n-squirt.... Jonathan handled subbing out the crew that did the hack-n-squirt and we were impressed with how much ground they covered per day ... overall we we're very pleased with the entire project from start to finish and I would hire Jonathan again.... pleasure to work with and very knowledgeable.

 

[Thelonegoose]

I do a lot of TSI myself around my farm. That being said I have managed to hack and squirt about 5-10 acres by myself in the last year on a 50 acre stand. It is a lot of work if you have a younger forest. I, however, like a little species diversity in my forest so I do not try to kill every less desirable tree. I tend to focus on the clusters of less desirable trees where a group of maples, black cherry, etc. may be growing. I tend to use about 60% gly and 40% water mix and have had about 60-70% success so far.

 

[budro2]

I have done a lot of hack-&-squirt in the past and seem to have around a 50% success rate. This past year, whatever I did didn't work LOL. Most of the work I've done is throughout hardwoods just to create more sunlight to the ground. However, we are fixing to start a logging operation and select-cutting roughly 50 acres total. We plan on spraying as many of the cut stumps as we possibly can and hack-&-squirting the rest of the junk trees. We can not afford to have a 50% success rate on this amount of acreage. Could you pros out there educate me on the right applications (specifically) on the amount of herbicide AND amount of water/bean oil/diesel you are mixing it with?

Cut Stump Treatment:
These cut stumps will be sprayed around the cambium layer 1-3 weeks after they are cut (I know - the sooner the better), But I've had some of you folks tell me to mix with some diesel to penetrate if it has been a while.
If I am making 1 gallon, 1) What type of herbicide and how much? 2) Which (water/bean oil/diesel) and how much?

Hack-&-Squirt:
I typically do one hack per 3" of diameter of the tree
If I am making 1 gallon, 1) What type herbicide and how much? 2) The rest water?

Thanks in advance!

I have done a lot of hack-&-squirt in the past and seem to have around a 50% success rate. This past year, whatever I did didn't work LOL. Most of the work I've done is throughout hardwoods just to create more sunlight to the ground. However, we are fixing to start a logging operation and select-cutting roughly 50 acres total. We plan on spraying as many of the cut stumps as we possibly can and hack-&-squirting the rest of the junk trees. We can not afford to have a 50% success rate on this amount of acreage. Could you pros out there educate me on the right applications (specifically) on the amount of herbicide AND amount of water/bean oil/diesel you are mixing it with?

Cut Stump Treatment:
These cut stumps will be sprayed around the cambium layer 1-3 weeks after they are cut (I know - the sooner the better), But I've had some of you folks tell me to mix with some diesel to penetrate if it has been a while.
If I am making 1 gallon, 1) What type of herbicide and how much? 2) Which (water/bean oil/diesel) and how much?

Hack-&-Squirt:
I typically do one hack per 3" of diameter of the tree
If I am making 1 gallon, 1) What type herbicide and how much? 2) The rest water?

Thanks in advance!

Hope this helps you, i keep this in my notes section on my phone


Hack and squirt

Full leaf out untll Jan is best time , not very effective when sap starts to rise.

With imazapyr (53%) you use 9 ounces of herbicide to 23 ounces of water in a quart spray bottle (28 ounces herbicide:100 ounces of water/gallon of mix). One quart will easily treat 5 acres with hack and squirt. this means one gallon of mixture will do about 20 acres so a 2.5 gallon jug of herbicide should treat over 200 acres by hack and squirt.

with the imazapyr (53%) only doing 1-3 hacks per tree so use a lot less and a lot less hacking . making it a lot easier to go thru a patch of woods in prob half the time as compared to using other
By other i mean other Chem like garlon 4.
1 hack per 4!in dbh is what's needed on arsenal . (53%)


I would wait till full leaf out. By the end of turkey season should be a good time to get started. You can work on it all the way up thorugh fall.
( maybe Jan , until sap moves )


You can use arsenal all the way up to the end of the year. The only time I wouldn't use it would be January - March when sap is rising. However, if you do it in the dormant season you should expect the trees to leaf out the following spring for a time before they wither and die.

For hand spraying brush such as Autum olive or other invasives:

Garlon 4 or tricolor 4 alligare use 2 Oz per gal or 1-2 qts per 45 gallon with surfactant

4 qts per 100 gallon for spraying



Pint surfactant per 50 gal water

 

[nwsg76]

Hit the woods today to do a little therapy. Targeting undesirable species in my timber. Basal bark treatment with triclopyr 4 and diesel. You can see one photo of having to go back after a year and treat some stumps that we cut but didn't get chemical. If you going cut it... apply chemical if you want it to die the first time.