Case Neck Turning

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I wouldn't waste my time turning necks. I tried it, and know others who have tried it with the same results which is a waste of time and money. If it does help group size I was never able to measure the difference.
 
I was thinking more of chambering issues due to neck thickness resizing from .308 to .277. Won't know for sure until I get the rifle and start working with cases. Maybe I am worrying about nothing...or something lol.
 
Snowwolfe":ealz6poo said:
I wouldn't waste my time turning necks. I tried it, and know others who have tried it with the same results which is a waste of time and money. If it does help group size I was never able to measure the difference.
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It depends on what your goal is. I agree, if you're loading for deer season, it's not worth the effort. If you're loading to compete at Williamsport, or just want to be as accurate as you can with a target rifle, then it is, at least in some situations.

A K&M neck turning setup is about as good as it gets. For $250, you can get setup to turn 3 different sizes with a electric screwdriver adapter and expander mandrels to match.
 
Sniper":2it4ppos said:
I was thinking more of chambering issues due to neck thickness resizing from .308 to .277. Won't know for sure until I get the rifle and start working with cases. Maybe I am worrying about nothing...or something lol.
Click to expand...

I once had a gunsmith rechamber a Remington 700 in 7mm Remington mag to 7mm/300 Weatherby Magnum. I formed brass from 300 Weatherby cases by running them down to .284 in the resizing die. I doubt if you will have any issues going down another .007. But if your smith cuts a super tight neck all bets are off.
 
I have the Forster trimmer/turner. I only use it for varmint rifle loads usually. I did try it some with my 25-06 but couldn't tell a difference in accuracy and, for me, it's not worth the trouble for a deer rifle. Where I have to turn is when forming 22 CHeetah cases from the Remington BR Basic cases which are 308 dimension and you have to neck them down in 3 sizer dies then go into a reamer die before the final normal sizing die. I was getting too many case collapses going into the reamer die and had to get a special diameter neck turning mandrel made to take a few thousandths off at that point. I turn those necks again once they are fire-formed. In that rifle (a Remington 40X) I can tell a difference in that it shrinks groups about 1/8" at 100 yards getting me under 1/2 for just about any load I put in the rifle. It has shot a best of .190 for 5 shots. For most rifles though, neck turning won't gain you much other than the satisfaction that your ammo is as good as it can be if that matters to you and you have time.
 
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your gunsmith should be able to get the neck dia off the reamer print,,when you load some ammo measure the neck with a bullet seated,,if your loaded round is not at least .004 smaller than the neck dia in the rifle you will have to turn your necks
 
I asked a friend who had been reloading for years about neck turning. His answer was I don't have a rifle that shoots well enough to make me want to.
 
neck turning will work best with a custom chamber set up for it . i have a 6.5-284 that has a custom chamber with the reamer cutting my neck area to .295
so my neck on a loaded round is .292 which is giving me .0015 clearance . you are sizing down so yes your neck will be a bit thicker . if you know what your gunsmith cut your neck to you can then turn your necks to be 1 1/2 -2 thousands under. a lot of ppl for some reason think turning necks on their brass will some how turn their stock rifle with a factory chamber into a tack driver which just is not case. it only gives their loaded round more clearance in the neck area which is not what you want . you want that 1 1/2 -2 thousands . your necked down brass with thicker necks might still have even more then that 1 1/2- 2 clearance
so the best you can do is turn your neck but not turning any brass off just turning them to take out any high spots [ where the neck is thicker in a spot

even on a custom chamber and neck this neck turning is only 1 small area of the big picture. their are so many other things that also go into a loaded round like
which brand of brass is used, powder, primers, bullets , rate of twist, barrel, crown , on and on sometimes it is best to just work up a load that shoots well and use a good bullet for what you will using these rounds on. when you get to the point where you want to do everything you can to try and make your rifle a tack driver then it can take days just prepping the rifle and brass and after all this it is still no guarantee your rifle will be any better then it was before you started

1 more thing to think about is if you are turning your necks down that much it is best to use a bushing type die so you can control your neck tension on the bullet
sometimes on a rifle that is used for hunting say under 300 yrd shots that shoots well [ 1" group at 100 yrds ] it is best to reload and call it good
if you get into more of the bench type shooting and start to prep and load for that be very very careful it is a huge black hole and you can start to obsess over your loading lol. i have a rifle that was set up to be a good shooter on the bench which i neck turn for along with 200,000 other things and the 1 thing that really made the biggest change in shooting smaller groups was just a different primer . so far my best group size is .006 at 200 yrds :tu:
 
Lots of good info, I should have the rifle in hand next week and will see how everything works out. I am only using the rifle for hunting purposes at most the rare shot beyond 300 yards. I was just thinking ahead of chambering issues. I am sure the rifle itself will be accurate beyond my abilities lol.
 

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