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TRIGGER

TRIGGER

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Cunningham TN
Trying to figure this reloading thing out. In my Hornady book it tells me that the max COL is 5.450 but on the very next page under the bullet I'm using it says COL 5.730. I'm confused.
 
The 50 cal A-max bullet is, or must be, really long.

COL is cartridge overall length. Base to tip. Long bullets with plenty of taper will have a long overall length but the ogive (the ogive is the largest diameter of a bullet and where the bullet comes in contact with the lands) will be a much smaller number from the base. Get your dial caliper and find the ogive.

I do not know if the A-max, being so long, will fit into the magazine. It will probably chamber but quite frankly I would have a no-primer piece of brass loaded and see if it would chamber and extract without a rubber hammer.
 
Jcalder":2gvyxpxp said:
Generally speaking I tend to disregard the oal mentioned in books and seat to the lands if at all possible. Or box length if the throat is longer than the magazine


Big or small, kill em all
Click to expand...

Breech load gun so I don't have to worry about a magazine. How do I set it to the lands?
 
There's a few ways to do it. I understand brass for that is fairly expensive. You could take a fired piece of brass and bend the case mouth in just enough to hold a bullet and chamber it. Do it 2-3 times and see that your numbers are consistent. Subtract a few thousands for clearance and try that. If you aren't careful and get the mouth to far out of round you may have to do it again on another piece of fired brass. Don't use sized brass. You only need enough tension to hold the bullet there. When you close the bolt it'll push the bullet in place. But when you open the bolt it may pull the bullet out some. That's the need for doing it a few times to check your findings


Big or small, kill em all
 
Jcalder":2zlej3mt said:
There's a few ways to do it. I understand brass for that is fairly expensive. You could take a fired piece of brass and bend the case mouth in just enough to hold a bullet and chamber it. Do it 2-3 times and see that your numbers are consistent. Subtract a few thousands for clearance and try that. If you aren't careful and get the mouth to far out of round you may have to do it again on another piece of fired brass. Don't use sized brass. You only need enough tension to hold the bullet there. When you close the bolt it'll push the bullet in place. But when you open the bolt it may pull the bullet out some. That's the need for doing it a few times to check your findings


Big or small, kill em all
Click to expand...

Makes perfect since. I watched some videos on it and those guys get silly with it and use all kinds of fancy tools. Your way seems simple and to the point. I will try that. Thanks.
 
DaveB":2fuam1fz said:
The 50 cal A-max bullet is, or must be, really long.

COL is cartridge overall length. Base to tip. Long bullets with plenty of taper will have a long overall length but the ogive (the ogive is the largest diameter of a bullet and where the bullet comes in contact with the lands) will be a much smaller number from the base. Get your dial caliper and find the ogive.

I do not know if the A-max, being so long, will fit into the magazine. It will probably chamber but quite frankly I would have a no-primer piece of brass loaded and see if it would chamber and extract without a rubber hammer.
Click to expand...

The ogive is the point where the bullet starts to taper?
 
TRIGGER":2os1vhwy said:
DaveB":2os1vhwy said:
The 50 cal A-max bullet is, or must be, really long.

COL is cartridge overall length. Base to tip. Long bullets with plenty of taper will have a long overall length but the ogive (the ogive is the largest diameter of a bullet and where the bullet comes in contact with the lands) will be a much smaller number from the base. Get your dial caliper and find the ogive.

I do not know if the A-max, being so long, will fit into the magazine. It will probably chamber but quite frankly I would have a no-primer piece of brass loaded and see if it would chamber and extract without a rubber hammer.
Click to expand...

The ogive is the point where the bullet starts to taper?
Click to expand...
yes


Big or small, kill em all
 
You can certainly find distance to lands without a tool. But the Hornady tool costs about $20, and the modified cases are about $5. Well worth the money to me, ymmv.

The Hornady tool that you can use to measure from case head to ogive is a necessity in my book. You get a set of different caliber collars and a deal they fit in that fastenes to your calipers. It's also a negligible amount of money in the grand scheme of things as far as I'm concerned.
 
smalljawbasser":376af32k said:
You can certainly find distance to lands without a tool. But the Hornady tool costs about $20, and the modified cases are about $5. Well worth the money to me, ymmv.

The Hornady tool that you can use to measure from case head to ogive is a necessity in my book. You get a set of different caliber collars and a deal they fit in that fastenes to your calipers. It's also a negligible amount of money in the grand scheme of things as far as I'm concerned.
Click to expand...
x2. But not sure where you found the gauge for $20. I've got one and it broke. But I think it was listed for $35. The comparators are very handy as well. But not necessary. But very handy


Big or small, kill em all
 
I load a bullet into brass and paint the bullet with a black marker. Then I VERY carefully chamber and just as carefully eject the round. Adjust the die and repeat.

I have no experience in loading for the 50. I don't even know what the optimum zero distance is or if standard reloading practices are appropriate for the caliber.

When your reloads stay at SAAMI specifications is your accuracy good?
 
DaveB":g8yemjqq said:
I load a bullet into brass and paint the bullet with a black marker. Then I VERY carefully chamber and just as carefully eject the round. Adjust the die and repeat.

I have no experience in loading for the 50. I don't even know what the optimum zero distance is or if standard reloading practices are appropriate for the caliber.

When your reloads stay at SAAMI specifications is your accuracy good?
Click to expand...

First time reloading anything. I mean this is my very first time seating a bullet.
 
Yeah, painting the bullet works but be prepared to repeat the effort multiple times.

When I try measuring a seated round and so on I generally have to knock the bullet out of the rifling a few times.

The comparator is really the way to go-I just can't afford one per cartridge as I own 12 different rfiles. Don't even know if they make one for a 50.
 
Don't reinvent the wheel. First, join the Fifty Cal Shooters Association. There will be members there with decades of experience. With all due respect, this is an activity with serious safety ramifications for imprecise hobbyists. Buy a Hornady OAL guage. Because Hornady does not offer a .50 BMG case, either make one yourself, or send a piece of brass to them and they will make you a case. The threads are 5/16 x 36. I will loan you a tap if you want to make your own. Painting a bullet or jam fitting a bullet is not the way to go.
 
tug":2fiebowj said:
Don't reinvent the wheel. First, join the Fifty Cal Shooters Association. There will be members there with decades of experience. With all due respect, this is an activity with serious safety ramifications for imprecise hobbyists. Buy a Hornady OAL guage. Because Hornady does not offer a .50 BMG case, either make one yourself, or send a piece of brass to them and they will make you a case. The threads are 5/16 x 36. I will loan you a tap if you want to make your own. Painting a bullet or jam fitting a bullet is not the way to go.
Click to expand...

+1
 

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