Broadheads

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TNBuckTracker

Active Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2025
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34
City & State/Province
Marshall County, TN
This will be my first season bowhunting, and I'm looking forward to the challenge!

What broadheads are you running this season? I'd love to hear your recommendations and what has worked best for you.

Any advice or recommendations are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, and good luck to everyone this season!
 
Tooth of the arrow 4 blade solid and Slick Trick Standard both in 125gr


If your bow is tuned you should be good with about any Broadhead. Mine shoots every 125gr head in 2-3-4 blades equally well.
 
Grim Reaper Micro Hades Pro have been great. (replacement blades available and easily sharpened if needed. Ferrule is tough and so far they all spin true, out of about 4 packs that I've had.
Magnus Stingers are great. Easy to sharpen. Warranty is super. Ferrules are not tough and can bend / brake on bone or rock from pass through. However, like mentioned before the warranty is super and you can just send them back and get it replaced if so desired.
 
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Been shooting 100gr Thunderheads through wheel bows since I was a kid. Never failed to get the job done.

I try my best to tune my arrows for my stick bows to shoot 200gr two blade heads. Grizzly single bevels make a wicked hole! My favorites were 200gr Werewolf double bevels (easier to sharpen). Last time I checked they were $$$$. Don't know if they still make them anymore.
 
Cant wait
IMG_0495.jpeg
 
Doesn't matter what you use so long as you know they'll hit where you aim. Every broad head I've hunted with in 40yrs was a killer. But I've shot/tried many that I'd never trust to hunt with.

There are things to consider. Newer shooters often unknowingly torque their bow which "throws" the arrow off slightly as it's released. The vanes quickly correct it and with field tips the arrow hits where you aim. But fixed blade broad heads catch wind like a sail that counters the vanes somewhat, and the result is sporadic, erratic misses. They might hit up to a foot or more off from your field points even if your bow is well tuned. Shooting sufficiency is absolutely critical. I would recommend getting a broad head target and trying some different heads to see where you're at. NEVER hunt with a head you haven't proven to yourself. Different heads shoot different for different people.

Mechanical heads offer a little forgiveness due to low profile. Not absolute forgiveness but some. The trade off is durability. They're all fine for the first deer, but afterwards need to be closely inspected for bends or breaks or rough function. Replace blades if necessary but anything else wrong means a trashed head. At very minimum clean the head and hone the blades before shooting another deer. Same for fixed heads.

That's about it. Doesn't matter what anyone else uses. I've shot highly esteemed heads and couldn't get them to hit reliably at all. It's not the head's fault, just the way I shoot. That's why it's important to try as many as you can until you find the head that you absolutely trust to hit where you aim. They'll all effectively kill if they hit their mark. None kill better or deader. But none will kill if they don't hit their mark. Hitting where you aim is by far the most critical factor.
 
Doesn't matter what you use so long as you know they'll hit where you aim. Every broad head I've hunted with in 40yrs was a killer. But I've shot/tried many that I'd never trust to hunt with.

There are things to consider. Newer shooters often unknowingly torque their bow which "throws" the arrow off slightly as it's released. The vanes quickly correct it and with field tips the arrow hits where you aim. But fixed blade broad heads catch wind like a sail that counters the vanes somewhat, and the result is sporadic, erratic misses. They might hit up to a foot or more off from your field points even if your bow is well tuned. Shooting sufficiency is absolutely critical. I would recommend getting a broad head target and trying some different heads to see where you're at. NEVER hunt with a head you haven't proven to yourself. Different heads shoot different for different people.

Mechanical heads offer a little forgiveness due to low profile. Not absolute forgiveness but some. The trade off is durability. They're all fine for the first deer, but afterwards need to be closely inspected for bends or breaks or rough function. Replace blades if necessary but anything else wrong means a trashed head. At very minimum clean the head and hone the blades before shooting another deer. Same for fixed heads.

That's about it. Doesn't matter what anyone else uses. I've shot highly esteemed heads and couldn't get them to hit reliably at all. It's not the head's fault, just the way I shoot. That's why it's important to try as many as you can until you find the head that you absolutely trust to hit where you aim. They'll all effectively kill if they hit their mark. None kill better or deader. But none will kill if they don't hit their mark. Hitting where you aim is by far the most critical factor.
Good advice. I always look for a forgiving head. Especially with neck and back issues that sometimes have a real impact on my form. When I know this is going to be a problem; I switch to a mechanical head in my quiver and further restrict shot distances.
 
VPA razor 3 blade 1 1/4 cut. You have to be able to sharpen your own. I like the cut on contact and the sharpening is enjoyable to me. Results are awesome when placed properly. Course that can be said for any quality broadheads. Focus on accuracy! Shoot your broadheads well before the season so they are tuned to shoot/ fly perfectly. Good luck
 
Doesn't matter what you use so long as you know they'll hit where you aim. Every broad head I've hunted with in 40yrs was a killer. But I've shot/tried many that I'd never trust to hunt with.

There are things to consider. Newer shooters often unknowingly torque their bow which "throws" the arrow off slightly as it's released. The vanes quickly correct it and with field tips the arrow hits where you aim. But fixed blade broad heads catch wind like a sail that counters the vanes somewhat, and the result is sporadic, erratic misses. They might hit up to a foot or more off from your field points even if your bow is well tuned. Shooting sufficiency is absolutely critical. I would recommend getting a broad head target and trying some different heads to see where you're at. NEVER hunt with a head you haven't proven to yourself. Different heads shoot different for different people.

Mechanical heads offer a little forgiveness due to low profile. Not absolute forgiveness but some. The trade off is durability. They're all fine for the first deer, but afterwards need to be closely inspected for bends or breaks or rough function. Replace blades if necessary but anything else wrong means a trashed head. At very minimum clean the head and hone the blades before shooting another deer. Same for fixed heads.

That's about it. Doesn't matter what anyone else uses. I've shot highly esteemed heads and couldn't get them to hit reliably at all. It's not the head's fault, just the way I shoot. That's why it's important to try as many as you can until you find the head that you absolutely trust to hit where you aim. They'll all effectively kill if they hit their mark. None kill better or deader. But none will kill if they don't hit their mark. Hitting where you aim is by far the most critical factor.
This is a great post. I like to play around with different heads. But this is what ive come to. I to have some, id never use again.
 
I'll echo what everyone else said. Practice practice practice! And before you go to the woods, make sure your broadheads fly true. Personally, I'm shooting a 2 blade 2 inch cut mechanical head. I started shooting them years ago because I didn't know much about tuning a bow and didn't want to have to worry about fixed blades not hitting where my field tips did. Now I've killed so many deer with them I just can't see myself shooting anything else. I buy them after season when they're on sale and just toss them after I shoot them once. I don't mind the $7-$9 per shot cost as I'll spend more than that on gas driving to and from wherever I'm hunting.

Good luck! Shooting one with a bow is one of the most addicting things I've ever done.
 

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