Broadheads tuning 101

[Trevor2]

That's what I need lol. The gf is pulling 40 lbs so I've got her shooting muzzy mx3 and they're shooting high and left of the normal field tips. How do I fix this? I just wasn't sure if I need to move the sights or if I can't do something to make field points and bh hit same spot. She been practicing and I told her to shoot bh today bc we leave for ohio next Thursday so gotta get it dialed in quick

 

[thetoolman]

The quick solution is to sight in the broad heads and not worry about the field points, but sounds like you have a tuning issue. Have you shot it through paper? I would start there. Some people don't like paper tuning, but I seem to get good results with it.

 

[bowhunter163]

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=539460

The easiest explanation of broadhead tuning there is . But there is alot of information to find out about the set up first . What bow , arrows , rest, and draw length ?

Just trying to get a base . Because if she is shooting a drop away rest and you change the rest position , most likely the rest will have to be re timed . Different bows require different tuning approaches . So answer these and I'm sure we can get ya going to right direction .

 

[Trevor2]

Has been paper tuned with field tips and was good. Bear finesse bow 26" draw 40 lbs and Easton helios 500 carbon arrows. I moved the rest to the right and down and as it pulled the bh arrows closer to center it also pushed the field tip arrows lower and right so I'm lost again

 

[bowhunter163]

Has been paper tuned with field tips and was good. Bear finesse bow 26" draw 40 lbs and Easton helios 500 carbon arrows. I moved the rest to the right and down and as it pulled the bh arrows closer to center it also pushed the field tip arrows lower and right so I'm lost again

what rest ? It will move the field tips but the question is , are they closer together ?

 

[bowhunter163]

You can call or send me a text if you would like . 865-684-6035

 

[muddyboots]

I would sight in broadheads and go hunting if they grouped well.

 

[bowhunter163]

I would sight in broadheads and go hunting if they grouped well.

the only problem is , if they aren't hitting with field points then they aren't coming out of the bow straight . There will be a few arrow/broadhead combos that might group and then some real flyers mixed in .

 

[muddyboots]

I would sight in broadheads and go hunting if they grouped well.

the only problem is , if they aren't hitting with field points then they aren't coming out of the bow straight . There will be a few arrow/broadhead combos that might group and then some real flyers mixed in .

I have never owned a bow that field points and fixed heads hit the same. Yes they all were tuned. I just saw no reason to care if the field points hit with the broadheads. If the rest and nocking point are aligned and he's getting good arrow flight and the broadheads group well I'd sight em in and go kill a deer. They don't care if the heads hit the same.

 

[bowhunter163]

I would sight in broadheads and go hunting if they grouped well.

the only problem is , if they aren't hitting with field points then they aren't coming out of the bow straight . There will be a few arrow/broadhead combos that might group and then some real flyers mixed in .

I have never owned a bow that field points and fixed heads hit the same. Yes they all were tuned. I just saw no reason to care if the field points hit with the broadheads. If the rest and nocking point are aligned and he's getting good arrow flight and the broadheads group well I'd sight em in and go kill a deer. They don't care if the heads hit the same.

I wasn't trying to start an argument . Just point out the fact that if a bow is PROPERLY tuned , it will shoot fixed blades the same as field points . And you will get optimal arrow flight .

I am trying to help him get the bow shooting optimal , because with her low draw weight and draw length she needs the most efficient set up possible . So she needs optimal arrow flight to help with her KE to assist with the best penetration possible .

Sure they can just move the sight and the broadheads hitting a pie plate at 20 , but to me that is not alot of room for error . And they are not getting the maximum amount of KE .

 

[muddyboots]

Oh not arguing. I musta never owned a bow that was in tune. Lol

 

[bowhunter163]

Oh not arguing. I musta never owned a bow that was in tune. Lol

lol I wasn't trying to be an A-hole or anything . And there is a huge difference in what most shops call " in tune" and a bow that is actually tuned . Haha most shops eyeball it and maybe paper tune at 20 ft. and call it good .

 

[Trevor2]

Thanks for all the input guys. She's going to the bow shop tomorrow bc I just don't have a lot of time to chase it before we leave next week. I hope they get it dialed in

 

[UTGrad]

Thanks for all the input guys. She's going to the bow shop tomorrow bc I just don't have a lot of time to chase it before we leave next week. I hope they get it dialed in

Just make sure they tune it to YOU shooting not them. Your grip might be different. The shop guy might get it tuned for him and then hand it back to you and its different.

 

[muddyboots]

Oh not arguing. I musta never owned a bow that was in tune. Lol

lol I wasn't trying to be an A-hole or anything . And there is a huge difference in what most shops call " in tune" and a bow that is actually tuned . Haha most shops eyeball it and maybe paper tune at 20 ft. and call it good .

My shop sets them with levels and a laser light. Is that not a good way?

 

[TheAirMan]

It's a good place to start but that's not tuning a bow. It's setting up a rest. After that they should be paper or walk back tuned and lastly broad head tuned. That should get you close to optimal arrow flight. Then you won't have to be shooting up your targets with broadheads. After broadhead tuning all I have to do with broadheads is shoot one occasionally to make sure nothing has stretched or moved.

 

[bowhunter163]

It's a good place to start but that's not tuning a bow. It's setting up a rest. After that they should be paper or walk back tuned and lastly broad head tuned. That should get you close to optimal arrow flight. Then you won't have to be shooting up your targets with broadheads. After broadhead tuning all I have to do with broadheads is shoot one occasionally to make sure nothing has stretched or moved.

^^^ great post. In my opinion , broadhead tuning tells you more about your bows tune than anything else . Bare shafts are also a great indicator but that also requires great form .

Muddy , setting the rest and nocking point with lasers and levels is only a starting point . I start mine completely level , and almost 95% of the time I end up with 1/8" nock high .