Broad head tuning

[TRIGGER]

Im using the toxic practice heads. They shoot and group good. Field tips group good as well but 8" low and 8" left. Should I change anything?

 

[TNDeerGuy]

Im using the toxic practice heads. They shoot and group good. Field tips group good as well but 8" low and 8" left. Should I change anything?

Honestly, that far off it could be anything. A tuning issue, spine issue, nock height, centershot, etc... Have you tried it with other broadheads?

 

[@fulldraw]

I agree with tndeerguy. If you want, you can bring it by the house one evening and we can take a look at your setup.

 

[thejetman]

Change out those garbage Broadheads first.

 

[TRIGGER]

Change out those garbage Broadheads first.

Please explain

 

[TRIGGER]

I agree with tndeerguy. If you want, you can bring it by the house one evening and we can take a look at your setup.

May take you up on that offer

 

[thejetman]

Rotational mass. The more weight you have around an object as it spins, throws the arrow off balance in flight. By alot. The more points of weight around the object compound the problem.

Then we can go into how much cutting surface the blades have vs friction. That's a whole nother ball game. There are better broadheads out there bud.

 

[TRIGGER]

Rotational mass. The more weight you have around an object as it spins, throws the arrow off balance in flight. By alot. The more points of weight around the object compound the problem.

Then we can go into how much cutting surface the blades have vs friction. That's a whole nother ball game. There are better broadheads out there bud.

What broad head do you think is the best? I like fixed blades for the simple fact that there is nothing to go wrong.

 

[thejetman]

Well, personally. I don't buy into the mechanical hype. At all. I shoot German Kinetics 100gr silver flame broadheads.

78 bucks for 3. But I will never have to buy heads again.
But, as far as broadheads go, stick to 2 blades or 3 blades. I would shoot. Muzzy Mx3, Magnus Stingers, DRT broadhead. Or something along those lines.

Here is some arrow porn

 

[TRIGGER]

The first deer I shot was with a muzzy 3 blade.... No blood trail to speak of. I stumbled up on him by luck 70 yards from P.O.I. I am new to bow hunting just trying to figure it all out. Had much better blood trail with the toxic. This is just my limited experience and am staying open minded to everything. My "mentor" and hunting buddy is a mechanical broad head guy but I just can't make myself use any. They all seam flimsy to me compared to just about any fixed blade and the whole idea of hoping they open up is just not for me.

 

[TboneD]

The first deer I shot was with a muzzy 3 blade.... No blood trail to speak of. I stumbled up on him by luck 70 yards from P.O.I. I am new to bow hunting just trying to figure it all out. Had much better blood trail with the toxic. This is just my limited experience and am staying open minded to everything. My "mentor" and hunting buddy is a mechanical broad head guy but I just can't make myself use any. They all seam flimsy to me compared to just about any fixed blade and the whole idea of hoping they open up is just not for me.

Countless deer have been shot and recovered using Muzzy heads, but blood trails aren't always so obvious and often you have to go by more than blood. My problem with modern compounds is they're so dang fast that field points and fixed broadheads can fly quite differently. That's why If you're getting 8" different POI you have stumbled upon a head that's quite the flyer and personally, I wouldn't use it. I wouldn't have any problem at all still shooting Muzzy's if they didn't fly so different than my field points on my current bow. However, I decided on Grim Reaper mechanicals and don't have any issues with different POI. Found that out last year with the practice head and I'm already saving money on not needing a broadhead target. Read the reviews. Grim Reapers aren't the only mechanicals with solid reputations.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[@fulldraw]

I agree with tndeerguy. If you want, you can bring it by the house one evening and we can take a look at your setup.

May take you up on that offer

Ok. Just pm me.

 

[BHC]

My advice would be to walk back tune your field tips to 40 yrds. Once you get that as close to perfect as you are capable, broadhead tune. Your field tips should be dead on at 20, so shoot your broadheads and adjust you AROW REST, not sight, as necessary to get your broadheads in the 10 ring. Your field tips will still be on as they were before you moved your rest.

I agree I don't like the toxics, but have to say I've never used them, but I likely will not. Some Good true flyin fixed heads are g5 strikers and slick tricks( what I use). The only benefit of mechanicals is that like field tips your bow doesn't have to be tuned well to get them to group nicely in the center of your target. But you lose penetration! Also a properly tuned bow maximizes it's energy giving you even more penetration. Broadhead tuning will make yor fixed heads fly just as good as mechanicals.

 

[Headhunter]

I solved that problem about 30 years ago. I quit shooting field points, I shoot broadheads all the time. Only time I will get a field point out is to paper tune if needed.