Beating my head against the wall

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Take 1 shot to see where it hits. Put it in a vice so it can't move with crosshairs still on bullseye. Adjust scope until crosshairs are covering bullet hole. Shoot at bullseye again and you should be on or really close. Or like mr big said if your rings and bases aren't doing their job you'll be wasting time and ammo.
 
On my econd set of rings, the ones that came with it ...long story short, they guy who put them on didn't tighten the rear mount, jumped all over the place on the range till I figured it out. Got over zealous and stripped the clamp. Replaced with much better Weaver Rings. Not sure I'm sold on the Buckhorn 4x12 scope that came with the rifle but it will have to do for now. Tried today with a cheap walmart led sled...You get what you pay for! Frustrating because I wanted to take it into the field before season is over.

Anyone been to Cheatham's range? It's not like Stone's river is it? Meaning it's unmanned?
 
Last time I was at cheatham which was a couple of years ago, it sucked. I don't know what they are using the range fees for but it aint the range. I don't go there anymore. The place is falling apart and on the weekends, people just sit at the tables without shooting and don't give them up. Kind of a social thing. If you do go there, at the very least, bring a chair and a target stand. Their's were falling apart and you could not find anywhere to tack a target on. If you go on the weekend, bring a portable bench if you got one.
 
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I'm a decent shot, but have never managed to zero anything with just one shot. First time messing with a scope and am just a little frustrated. So dad blamed hard to find a place that I can get this done. Don't relish the idea of going to an unmanned range but Stones River is closed during the week when I have the time.

So tell me more about this one shot zero...
 
What you do is shoot one round aiming dead center at a target. Then you hold the rifle steady(a vise would be handy but you gotta hold it steady somehow) aiming at the bullseye. Then still holding steady, move first one crosshair to line up with where the first bullet hit. The move other crosshair. If you did your part, the next round is supposed to hit right where you were originally aiming, dead center. It actually works. The problem is the holding steady part, that is why a vise was mentioned.
 
if the scope tracks like it is supposed to you can zero with one shot,but need to confirm it with more..

I have a 4'X4' target at 100 yards,I can usually get on that with the first shot,,,if your scope is good you should be able to measure how much you need to move your scope and dial it in,,if it moves more or less note that an use those figures in the rest of your adjustments.

most scopes advertise 1/4 MOA adjustments but may actually be closer to 1/3rd or 1/5th.
 
eweisner said:
I'm a decent shot, but have never managed to zero anything with just one shot. First time messing with a scope and am just a little frustrated. So dad blamed hard to find a place that I can get this done. Don't relish the idea of going to an unmanned range but Stones River is closed during the week when I have the time.

So tell me more about this one shot zero...
Click to expand...
It's what I said in my first post above and Dave B reiterated too.
 
Thanks. How does that work with a cold bore?

I've got a Stevens .30-06 with a 4x12 and a Rossi .243 with a 3x9. I have a street light that is almost exactly 100 yards from my back door that fills the rifle bores very nicely. I have strapped my vice down to a board and secured my rifle in the vice. I adjust everything until I get a very good bore sight on the street light. If I have adjusted correctly it creates a "halo" within the barrel of the rifle. When I have done all that I check my scope at the lowest power. When I get the crosshairs on the street light I adjust to my highest power and "fine tune" to center mass of the street light.

Am I wasting my time with this method or should I not be pretty close?
 
eweisner said:
Thanks. How does that work with a cold bore?

I've got a Stevens .30-06 with a 4x12 and a Rossi .243 with a 3x9. I have a street light that is almost exactly 100 yards from my back door that fills the rifle bores very nicely. I have strapped my vice down to a board and secured my rifle in the vice. I adjust everything until I get a very good bore sight on the street light. If I have adjusted correctly it creates a "halo" within the barrel of the rifle. When I have done all that I check my scope at the lowest power. When I get the crosshairs on the street light I adjust to my highest power and "fine tune" to center mass of the street light.

Am I wasting my time with this method or should I not be pretty close?
Click to expand...

you should at least be on paper,,I use a 12 inch black target at 100 yards off my bench and can usually get on paper with one shot,,after that it is just measuring and counting clix
 
I've never not been able to be on target before and thinking on it I think I have two things working against me. The trigger pull is terrible so I find myself distracted by that and I am over anticipating the recoil
 
I had a gunsmith set one rifle to 3.5 pounds, then 3.6, 3.4, we moved all over the place and there is more to it than just how much pull it takes to fire a round. Anyway, we got one rifle fixed up so's I was pretty happy. Them he made three other rifles 'feel' like the first. I don't believe any of the 4 have the same pull but they all feel exactly alike, And yes, a scratchy trigger(you can hear it) will give you the jumpies. Get that resolved and quick because flinching can become a habit very fast.
 
I never developed the habit of flinching, this is more like I keeping squeezing the trigger waiting for something to happen and I want to check and see if something is wrong and I lose concentration on the target and BOOOM .30-06 Dow range off target
 

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