Barrel replacement recommended?

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Monroe TN
So I have a rifle I want to have the barrel replaced with a threaded barrel. What
barrel company would you all use and who to install the barrel and make sure it's done perfectly ?
 
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I had McGowen make a remage barrel and installed it myself. Its easier than swapping a savage barrel. The hardest thing is getting the old barrel off.
 
I've threaded a lot of sporter barrels. If you're running it suppressed, then you're likely going to want to shorten it. I think most people figure out that it's not fun carrying around a 22" or 24" barrel with a 7"-9" suppressor. I run all of mine in the 16" to 18" range and haven't given up any noticeable performance.
 
I've threaded a lot of sporter barrels. If you're running it suppressed, then you're likely going to want to shorten it. I think most people figure out that it's not fun carrying around a 22" or 24" barrel with a 7"-9" suppressor. I run all of mine in the 16" to 18" range and haven't given up any noticeable performance



So after do some research Looks like you are correct not that I was doubting you. I just figured it was to thin. I think if I have the current barrel threaded I will have it cut down some
 
Hmmm.......I am probably wrong but I think TIMinTN does something like this.

There are some extremely competent folks on this site.

And I am swimming upstream I know but you ever look at Lilja barrels? They are doing the Mk13/Mk15 Sniper Rifle for the Seals (McMillan TAC 50).

And Mr. Big I am sure has some thoughts on the matter of barrel choice and gunsmith.

There are tons of choices. For example.
1. length
2. caliber
3. contour
4. fluting
5. Stainless or not stainless
6. Twist
7. Are you going to shoot a very specific weight and type of bullet? Heavy for caliber etc.

Anyway, Have fun. Wish I had the same problem.
 
Just curious, in what way is it easier than swapping a Savage barrel ?
You don't have to completely strip the bolt down. Just remove firing pin and ejector. Savage, you have to also remove the extractor which does not sound like much but turned into a big pain the last time I did one. It was an 1980s model 110e. Next time I do an older one like that, I am just going to go ahead and buy a new extractor kit and ejector kit before I even get started.
 
You don't have to completely strip the bolt down. Just remove firing pin and ejector. Savage, you have to also remove the extractor which does not sound like much but turned into a big pain the last time I did one. It was an 1980s model 110e. Next time I do an older one like that, I am just going to go ahead and buy a new extractor kit and ejector kit before I even get started.
I have swapped lots of Savage barrels and have never removed anything from the bolt.
 
I am not an expert and only work on my own stuff. I know its not required but some people recommend disassembling the bolt before headspacing so that is the way I have been doing it whether its a savage or a remage. It only takes a minute to take down a bolt and put it back together even for a novice unless that stupid spring gets stuck down in that hole because its weak, grimmy and rusty and you don't have a pin punch small enough to go down in that hole to dig it out. I had to grind down a 1/16 pin punch to get it out. I am barely a novice so I think its safest if I follow the recommended procedure even when not necessary. I do refuse to wear a helmet on a bicycle because it makes me feel silly.
 
Same here
Like a lot of things I've done over the years, I'm self taught with a Google here and a Google there. I suppose if the firing pin spring and ejector were removed, there would be less resistance on the bolt for a better "feel" when headspacing. Can't blame anyone for following instructions.
 

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