Anyone have a good reference for long range shooting

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7mm08

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In a river hopefully!
With a tactical scope.
Mounted and rough zeroed in my new Vortex PST 2.5 - 10 x 44 today on my 7mm08

Anyone have a good reference that cuts to the chase? Physics I don't need... I've had enough of that.

Thanks

PS. THE shots were 9'oclock to the bulls eye. I can't get it to flip correctly
 
Download "Shooter" app on your smartphone and start entering the data for your rifle, scope, and bullet. You will need to measure and calculate your exact height above bore for your scope, and you will need to know your muzzle velocity to enter. You also need to ensure the scope is mounted level. This will get you started for punching paper or ringing steel. The other physics become helpful when you want to get precise with first round hits at any distance.

There are some really great shooters on here, and they should have some more great advice.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
smalljawbasser":6vehpi11 said:
Out of curiosity, how far are you planning on shooting?

Where I hunt has a potential for a 400 yard shot. I am a member at ORSA in Oak Ridge and they have a 1000yd range. If a .308 can do it so can my 7mm08 I figure. " something to do" my old buddy from Maine used to say.
 
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Okay 7, here we go. BTW say hello to your hog-killing Son.

1. Develop load for best accuracy and not necessarily the most FPS but you must know that FPS. You will do best with a chrony but you can use the reload manual numbers.
2. You need to carry mass in a straight line and heavier is better than lighter for this purpose.
3. If you zero your rifle at 4-6-8-10 inches high at 200 yards, how much does the bullet drop at 400?
4. Say your bullet drops 38 inches if you are 4 inch high at 200. 38x4 = 142 up clicks on your scope. You do not have 142 up clicks. Determine which 200-yard high selection you have to be at to get the up clicks to fall within your scope's parameters. This is why you hear of 20 MOA rails. The scope mounting rail has a slant front to rear that adds an automatic 80 clicks to you elevation.
5. Zero your rifle at whatever-inches high at 200 you must have in order to get enough click up space to reach 400. Shoot rounds at 400 yards. You will start to see why some folks talk about case neck tension and neck-turning and why some separate brass & Bullets into weights that seem so small because at 100 yards, it just don't matter but at 200 you start to see larger groups and it is magnified at 300.

You have to become conversant with the effect of wind on your trajectory. A crosswind of any speed is very very tough because the wind will vary significantly over 400 yards. I used "not too much", "a lot" and "too much" visually observed wind to determine my windage setting, which i used the deer's nose or rump as my marks. A trailing wind has always seemed to me to be no big deal but a headwind will definitely slow you down and that means a larger drop at 400. Voodoo is pretty accurate description because some folks get the wind a lot better than others. My BIL I swear to you can't buy a loaf of bread without a list but he gets wind drift it drives me insane to shoot with him.

My best reference suggestions are an accurate ballistic chart, a rifle that is accurate, and the ability of the shooter to calculate when under pressure. Plus practice. A lot.
 
Dave B,
Thank you. You know as we get older we have to keep learning or the brain gets slower. Can't think of a better way to combine learning something new and fun at the same time
 
DaveB":2cdwfige said:
1. Develop load for best accuracy and not necessarily the most FPS but you must know that FPS. You will do best with a chrony but you can use the reload manual numbers.
Somebody help me out here with the technical term that is escaping me right now but, what you are looking for is the load that produces the least amount of variance in fps in a span of say, 5 shots. It's amazing how you don't even have to hit paper for accuracy, you can just watch the numbers on the Chrono
 
TraumaSlave":3akqxd0l said:
DaveB":3akqxd0l said:
1. Develop load for best accuracy and not necessarily the most FPS but you must know that FPS. You will do best with a chrony but you can use the reload manual numbers.
Somebody help me out here with the technical term that is escaping me right now but, what you are looking for is the load that produces the least amount of variance in fps in a span of say, 5 shots. It's amazing how you don't even have to hit paper for accuracy, you can just watch the numbers on the Chrono

Standard deviations.
 
ratsnakeboogy":u11aek0r said:
TraumaSlave":u11aek0r said:
DaveB":u11aek0r said:
1. Develop load for best accuracy and not necessarily the most FPS but you must know that FPS. You will do best with a chrony but you can use the reload manual numbers.
Somebody help me out here with the technical term that is escaping me right now but, what you are looking for is the load that produces the least amount of variance in fps in a span of say, 5 shots. It's amazing how you don't even have to hit paper for accuracy, you can just watch the numbers on the Chrono

Standard deviations.

Extreme spread is what you're trying to keep low. If shooting long range, your goal is to keep your extreme spread below 20 fps. Google Dan Newberry and Optimal Charge Weight (OCW).
 

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