Looking for a stock for a mauser 96. Found a Boyd's that's reasonably priced. Any other suggestions or comments on these stocks. Not wanting synthetic and plan on bedding it.
Aftermarket stocks
- Thread starter Jcalder
- Start date
Rubberduck270
Well-Known Member
Boyd's are hard to beat for the money. Stockey's sells laminates as well but they are generally higher.
If your wanting a synthetic they had a Fajen brand at Sportsman Guide for around 65.00.
I ordered a Boyd's. It's a laminate in nutmeg. Not sure how to finish but I don't like a high sheen. Probably do a true oil finish. Any tips from y'all that have done this
Tru oil requires several applications, and will leave a high gloss if you put too many on. Remember that it is designed to penetrate and protect, so it can't be done in just one coat; I'd recommend 3. Use #000 or #0000 steel wool between coats.
EastTNHunter said:
Thanks. I'll probably put a few coats on it until I'm happy. I found some good videos but they may leave out some tips and since it's my first finishing job I know I'll leave something out
Rubberduck270
Well-Known Member
Did you buy an unfinished version? Most come finished...
FULLDRAWXX75
Well-Known Member
I have done many (probably over a few dozen) with tung oil and have had wonderful results.
Start by wiping the entire (raw wood) stock down with a damp to medium wet cloth, this will raise the grain of the wood and open up the pours, after it dries sand it down with fine paper and wet again, repeat until the grain no longer rises. It is then ready for finishing.
Keep in mind all finishes are going to darken the color to some point, so if you are applying a stain first, the final shade will be darker after the oil is applied.
I have found the straight oil is all that is needed and brings out the natural shades and grain in the wood.
Apply the tung oil with a lint free rag or sponge, coat evenly and let sit until dry, using med steel wool to buff off the outer coating until a smooth finish is achieved, repeat 5-6 times gradually working the steel wool down to fine then ultra fine. The last coat will leave a hard as rock protective finish (naturally) into the wood, leaving a very rich semi gloss/satin finish.
If you want, apply a few coats of heavy paste furniture wax and buff off. I prefer bowling ally wax, it's heavy duty stuff.
FDXX75
PS: water beads up/off like a new corvette paint job.
Start by wiping the entire (raw wood) stock down with a damp to medium wet cloth, this will raise the grain of the wood and open up the pours, after it dries sand it down with fine paper and wet again, repeat until the grain no longer rises. It is then ready for finishing.
Keep in mind all finishes are going to darken the color to some point, so if you are applying a stain first, the final shade will be darker after the oil is applied.
I have found the straight oil is all that is needed and brings out the natural shades and grain in the wood.
Apply the tung oil with a lint free rag or sponge, coat evenly and let sit until dry, using med steel wool to buff off the outer coating until a smooth finish is achieved, repeat 5-6 times gradually working the steel wool down to fine then ultra fine. The last coat will leave a hard as rock protective finish (naturally) into the wood, leaving a very rich semi gloss/satin finish.
If you want, apply a few coats of heavy paste furniture wax and buff off. I prefer bowling ally wax, it's heavy duty stuff.
FDXX75
PS: water beads up/off like a new corvette paint job.
Rubberduck270 said:
I got an unfinished stock. I'll have to finish inletting it and cut out for the bolt handle.
TNRifleman said:
I understand the sanding it and the prep work. I understand buffing between coats but I have a question. I found a video on YouTube from Boyd's on how to finish a stock. They put a coat of true oil on and let it sit for 15 minutes. Then they put another coat on and wet sanded that coat allowing the sawdust to fill in voids and pores. I'm not a woodworker by any means but if you raise the grain and sand them off several times to where it won't raise anymore isn't the wet sanding pointless. And won't the sawdust make a mess with the coats. I know you want as clean a stock as you can possibly have when putting the oil on it.
Rubberduck270
Well-Known Member
I've seen the sanded in finish done on furniture and it turns out looking like a sheet of glass when done properly.
It's safe to say anything I do will not be done proper lol. I'm just after a respectable looking stock. Being a laminate will the mineral spirits affect the glue in the stock. I was thinking of using a cheesecloth or something similar
How does the tung oil compare to true oil. I've never used either but I know true oil is a very common choice. Haven't heard of tung oil till you mentioned it
FULLDRAWXX75
Well-Known Member
You can get what is known as a tack cloth, it is made special for wiping down wood refinishing projects, autobody jobs, etc.
It is basically a cheese cloth with a sticky film on it, it picks up dust/debris but leaves nothing behind, harmless to the surface.
I have never used anything but tung oil, it is much thicker than the other oils, but I feel it makes for a much better finish. I apply mine with a lint free cotton rag, I warm the oil up by placing the amount I intend to use in a small bowl and then put it in a larger bowl of near boiling water. The warm oil will penetrate into the wood deeper.
To touch base on the wet sanding topic you mentioned above, one thing to consider, why would you want to fill voids or the grain with sanding dust, once it dries it falls out. I think what they were attempting to do is raise the grain with the oil and then sand the grain down smooth, same as the water treatment I mentioned but with the oil. I prefer my method much better, because you are working with a dry stock and not imbedding material into the pours and sealing it in.
FDXX75
It is basically a cheese cloth with a sticky film on it, it picks up dust/debris but leaves nothing behind, harmless to the surface.
I have never used anything but tung oil, it is much thicker than the other oils, but I feel it makes for a much better finish. I apply mine with a lint free cotton rag, I warm the oil up by placing the amount I intend to use in a small bowl and then put it in a larger bowl of near boiling water. The warm oil will penetrate into the wood deeper.
To touch base on the wet sanding topic you mentioned above, one thing to consider, why would you want to fill voids or the grain with sanding dust, once it dries it falls out. I think what they were attempting to do is raise the grain with the oil and then sand the grain down smooth, same as the water treatment I mentioned but with the oil. I prefer my method much better, because you are working with a dry stock and not imbedding material into the pours and sealing it in.
FDXX75
I agree on the wet sanding. Just thought I'd mention what I seen.
