Accurizing a stock 700?

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GOODWIN

GOODWIN

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Feb 18, 2008
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Jackson, MS
I'd like to do some things to get better accuracy out of my 700 BDL 30-06 with laminate stock. First off I'd like to keep the factory look as much as possible because this was gun was a gift and has sentimental value. And I don't want to break the bank doin it. Just getting the itch to reach out there a little farther 500-600yds. Currently, I'm only getting 1" 1/2 groups at 100yds with factory loads. I'm looking to get some decent optics for it now. Really looking at the Vortex Viper 4-16X.

Other than quality glass and handloads, what else can I do to the gun? Looking for helpful tips or links to good websites. The barrel is not free-floated. Also in my google searches I've found a little info on bedding the action. And can I adjust the factory trigger myself with minimal gunsmithing knowledge? Thanks for any help I can get. I'm gonna make this my off-season project. I know I can get a lot of aftermarket custom things such as a barrel, trigger, stock, etc. but I'm really looking for ways to make the stock gun a better shooter.
 
The sky's the limit on what all you can do to help accuracy. You can lap the recoil lugs, fire lap the bore, work up hand loads, trigger job or replacement trigger, etc.

I'd start with free floating the barrel and bedding the action. Then work on the trigger, then possible move to lapping the barrel and recoil lugs.

Midway USA has a few videos online that are pretty interesting to watch. He does a good job of explaining pillar and glass bedding. http://www.midwayusa.com/General.mvc/Index/VideoLibrary
 
GOODWIN said:
And can I adjust the factory trigger myself with minimal gunsmithing knowledge?
Click to expand...
Is your trigger an XMark Pro (with the set screw in the trigger shoe)? If not, please don't mess with it.
 
infoman jr. said:
GOODWIN said:
And can I adjust the factory trigger myself with minimal gunsmithing knowledge?
Click to expand...
Is your trigger an XMark Pro (with the set screw in the trigger shoe)? If not, please don't mess with it.
Click to expand...

How do I tell? I don't see a set screw? This gun was purchased in 2003 I believe
 
It's the older style trigger then. You can find pretty good instructions online on how to adjust them. It's a 3 screw system and can be a little intimidating if you've never adjusted a trigger before. Most gunsmiths will do a 700 trigger job for pretty cheap.

I've adjusted several and once you get the hang of it there's nothing to it. They never will break like a Timney though. A Timney trigger is $120 well spent in my book.
 
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Ok I found a great youtube video and was able to adjust it. It is the older model with 3 screws. It's lighter now with a little creep but not too bad. Still playing around with it. It may not be a Timney but I think it's better than stock. After some sore forearms I've managed to free float the barrel as well. I used the deep-well socket and sandpaper technique. I went up on the size of socket a couple of times and finally got it where I want it. Bout to head out to go look at scopes now. Want to stay under $500 and something with at least a 16X. I've got leupold bases and rings right now. Do you think I'd be better off with a one-piece picatinney rail? Just getting my feet wet into long range shooting so thanks for the info. Got to start somewhere I guess.
 
I've got a couple triggers that I've done that I've never been able to get all the creep out of. Just part of it.

What size objective are you looking at for your scope? I'm a big fan of the 1 piece DNZ Game Reaper mounts. They run roughly $50.
 
Rubberduck270 said:
I've got a couple triggers that I've done that I've never been able to get all the creep out of. Just part of it.

What size objective are you looking at for your scope? I'm a big fan of the 1 piece DNZ Game Reaper mounts. They run roughly $50.
Click to expand...

I'm looking at a 40mm - 50mm obj. Will I be able to tell much difference in the 40 vs the 50?
 
I would start with a new stock, H-S would be a good choice for the money. I would have the barrel re crowned. Then a trigger job to 2.5 lbs., good bases and rings and good glass. Then handloads. That should get you started, then if that don't work. All you lack is a custom barrel.
 
Don't forget to put some type of finish back on the wood where you sanded it. It needs to be sealed so it won't draw moisture.
 
Spending $25 on a Brownells Accuglass kit to glass bed it is a great "Bang for the Buck". I've done several rifles with varying results but they all have improved in accuracy to some degree. I don't think there is any other modification that gains as much for so little cost. Especially since you have already lightened the trigger and free floated the barrel.
 
Hunter 257W said:
Spending $25 on a Brownells Accuglass kit to glass bed it is a great "Bang for the Buck". I've done several rifles with varying results but they all have improved in accuracy to some degree. I don't think there is any other modification that gains as much for so little cost. Especially since you have already lightened the trigger and free floated the barrel.
Click to expand...

thanks for the info. That's what I'll probably do next. Did you just do the action?
 
GOODWIN said:
Hunter 257W said:
Spending $25 on a Brownells Accuglass kit to glass bed it is a great "Bang for the Buck". I've done several rifles with varying results but they all have improved in accuracy to some degree. I don't think there is any other modification that gains as much for so little cost. Especially since you have already lightened the trigger and free floated the barrel.
Click to expand...

thanks for the info. That's what I'll probably do next. Did you just do the action?
Click to expand...

I always do the action including the rear tang and the chamber portion of the barrel. I've added pillars later to some guns while leaving others with just the epoxy. I don't think the pillars make that much difference in the short term but I'm sure they help in the long term by preventing compression of the stock material under the action screws.
 
Before polishing, from the factory

IMG_0160-3_zpsf0a11bc6.jpg


After polishing

IMG_0165.jpg
 
I did the polishing using bronze mandrels I bought from Brownells. I have a kit that contains 4 grades of compound from a very course 220 up to 1200. I am able to usually start with 400, but this one was so bad, like the worse I ever encountered. There was a happy ending this rifle was chambered in 300 Win Mag and shot an exceptional .479" 4 shot group with handloads using 150 Nosler Accubonds and IMR4350
 
Thanks for all the tips guys! I ordered the bedding kit from Brownells so plan to do that next. I ended up going with a Nikon Monarch 4-16x 44mm I ordered from Swfa.com for $300! Which is a great deal if anyone is looking for Nikon optics. I was torn between the Vortex Viper and this but couldn't pass up the deal. Hopefully it will fit the bill. I also got a set of 30-06 dies so we'll see what I can do with it. I'll give an update as soon as I can hit the range.
 

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