.22LR suppressor

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Gmed

Gmed

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Dec 25, 2021
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Kingsport, TN
Never had one and never thought I wanted one until lately. Just a question for those that have a rimfire suppressor….the one I'm looking at can be disassembled. Dealer said "scrape off fouling with a screwdriver and you're good to go". Sounds a little oversimplified to me, so how difficult are they to manually clean and how often?
 
I would expect a 22 can to get dirtier and more often than a standard can, but have one I couldn't take apart wouldn't stop me.
 
I have a sure fire Ryder, and it does need cleaning. When my accuracy goes I take it apart and clean it.
 
My .22 suppressors are steel and titanium so that I can use diluted CLR (gray bottle) to clean them. I take them apart and let them soak a couple hours and they are pretty easy to clean. Aluminum can't take this type of cleaning so haven't bought any suppressors that are Aluminum.
I clean them when accuracy drops off, had a slight end cap strike when one got too dirty.
 
Gmed said:
Never had one and never thought I wanted one until lately. Just a question for those that have a rimfire suppressor….the one I'm looking at can be disassembled. Dealer said "scrape off fouling with a screwdriver and you're good to go". Sounds a little oversimplified to me, so how difficult are they to manually clean and how often?
Click to expand...
What brand are you looking at?
 
Cleaning is actually pretty easy with breakthrough suppressor cleaner. Just submerge for 24 hours then shoot twice. I do break mine down every other cleaning just to get it spotless.
 
.22 cans are crazy dirty and should be cleaned every 500 rounds or so.

You can make the 'dip' with hydrogen peroxide and vinegar. just dump the body and the baffle stack in it for a few hours, it will come out clean. It will probably remove the coating off the body if it is aluminum, but all the lead will react with the vinegar and form lead acetate which precipitates in the bottom of the container.

The problem then becomes disposing of the lead acetate. Do NOT dump it down your toilet, it's a heavy metal toxin. It needs to be disposed of properly... like pour out in your neighbors yard. (just kidding)
 
I have an AB Little Bird. It is fairly self cleaning as the baffles are threaded with a tap thread which clears all debris from threads. Very quiet suppressor and cheap as far as suppressor go. I personally would not clean any suppressor regularly because it helps sound mitigation to have a little carbon.
 
megalomaniac said:
.22 cans are crazy dirty and should be cleaned every 500 rounds or so.

You can make the 'dip' with hydrogen peroxide and vinegar. just dump the body and the baffle stack in it for a few hours, it will come out clean. It will probably remove the coating off the body if it is aluminum, but all the lead will react with the vinegar and form lead acetate which precipitates in the bottom of the container.

The problem then becomes disposing of the lead acetate. Do NOT dump it down your toilet, it's a heavy metal toxin. It needs to be disposed of properly... like pour out in your neighbors yard. (just kidding)
Click to expand...
Could you bottle it up and send to mup for his Wisconsin neighbors
 
I have 4 rimfire suppressors and all are able to be disassembled for cleaning, none have any aluminum parts and one has titanium innards. All are in need of serious cleaning but I continue to neglect them. In the past I have used the "dip" and got great results each time. As far as brands, one is from Tactical Innovations, 2 are SWR and one Liberty. They all have their unique capabilities such as the Tactical Innovations Quest being almost useless on a pistol but great on a rifle. The other 3 are pretty equal in suppression and give different balance points due to individual weight of each. The SWR Spectre is my favorite SBR suppressor and the Liberty Kodiak TL is my favorite pistol suppressor. There's been a lot of innovation since I acquired my 4 but the bottom line is that you pretty much get what you pay for in suppressors, to a point. Top shelf manufacturers with matching customer service will serve well for any owner.
 
It is really hard to beat the SilencerCo Sparrow .22. It has a monocore instead of K-style stacked cups, o-rings on each end of the monocore, and MOST importantly two halfs of a cylinder that meet together, sealed by o-rings at each end, entire assembly slides into outer cylinder which is the registered part of the suppressor. The design makes it impossible to "weld" your suppressor together with lead and fouling from thousands of shots. It always just unscrews and the innards slide right out. Now from there you have a mess. I have a small tupperware bowl just large enough and i soak all the parts in Hoppes #9 for a few hours at least. Copper brushes on monocore, razor paint blades to scrape the carbon and fouling off the inside of the two cylinder halves. I always replace all of the o-rings, two different sizes, 3 rings total. Cheap to get off of Amazon.
 
For the most part I try to stick with lead bullets for the 22's but have to run mix with the magnum, plan to get 1 this next year that I can take apart and clean, will be looking for 1 that can be cleaned by any method. Instead of buying more rifles I will just buy stuff for the ones I have as I am very happy with. Hopefully the accuracy won't go downhill by using them.
 
Gmed said:
Never had one and never thought I wanted one until lately. Just a question for those that have a rimfire suppressor….the one I'm looking at can be disassembled. Dealer said "scrape off fouling with a screwdriver and you're good to go". Sounds a little oversimplified to me, so how difficult are they to manually clean and how often?
Click to expand...
If you want to do some research on a dedicated silencer/suppressor forum, the link below has everything you'd ever want to know...
https://www.silencertalk.com/forum/index.php
 
megalomaniac said:
.22 cans are crazy dirty and should be cleaned every 500 rounds or so.

You can make the 'dip' with hydrogen peroxide and vinegar. just dump the body and the baffle stack in it for a few hours, it will come out clean. It will probably remove the coating off the body if it is aluminum, but all the lead will react with the vinegar and form lead acetate which precipitates in the bottom of the container.
Click to expand...
NEVER put anything aluminum in the DIP! Never.
 

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