2018 F150 Overheating

[mike52]

The system works on a closed loop, if the cap doesn't seal the system will not perform correctly

 

[SSlater]

Replace the thermostat and radiator cap. Both maintenance items and due. Truck is 6-7 years old.

I cannot stress enough to use parts from the dealer. Trust me on this.

 

[Kimber45]

Replace the thermostat and radiator cap. Both maintenance items and due. Truck is 6-7 years old.

I cannot stress enough to use parts from the dealer. Trust me on this.

Getting quality replacements is critical for sure. Especially with so much china garbage out there now. I try HARD not to go TO a dealer, but I also try hard to track down the highest quality replacement parts - order online for way under the stealership prices. Quite often you can determine who makes cooling components, bearings etc etc etc and crossover to the actual supplier part numbers, still pick up local at a Napa or Motor Parts & Bearing type store.

 

[backyardtndeer]

Getting quality replacements is critical for sure. Especially with so much china garbage out there now. I try HARD not to go TO a dealer, but I also try hard to track down the highest quality replacement parts - order online for way under the stealership prices. Quite often you can determine who makes cooling components, bearings etc etc etc and crossover to the actual supplier part numbers, still pick up local at a Napa or Motor Parts & Bearing type store.

Yep, for local genuine OEM parts I try motor parts. Online, I really hate rock autos shipping, but still use them when I have to.

 

[SSlater]

Getting quality replacements is critical for sure. Especially with so much china garbage out there now. I try HARD not to go TO a dealer, but I also try hard to track down the highest quality replacement parts - order online for way under the stealership prices. Quite often you can determine who makes cooling components, bearings etc etc etc and crossover to the actual supplier part numbers, still pick up local at a Napa or Motor Parts & Bearing type store.

Just be careful. They're making counterfeit NGK spark plugs now.

 

[Wade195]

For me. I try to use genuine factory parts if at all possible.

Being in the heavy equipment business my whole life. I've seen how other parts stand up.

Just my opinion.

 

[Kimber45]

For me. I try to use genuine factory parts if at all possible.

Being in the heavy equipment business my whole life. I've seen how other parts stand up.

Just my opinion.

I'm almost 62, and was in the auto parts business for many yrs early in life. Until the last 10-12 yrs, I'm pretty much right there with you. But now, the manufacturing folks are worried far more about initial profit, than they are reliability. Some of the china type crap is being used on brand new stuff now. Bearings are an example for me - especially all these hub bearing failures everywhere. A huge part of that junk is "made in the us" but to an inferior spec to meet manufacturers price point demands. I tell everyone who works on their own stuff to jump in a forum - Chevy - Ford - Ram etc etc etc. The techs who frequent those places will tell ya quick what to buy, and what to stay away from. In this day and time, we have to really do our due diligence to investigate what we're buying, before we buy it.

I wonder how many fake name brand parts cHinA is funneling thru Amazon now… as I've heard a lot of stories from folks in regards to such. And I'll tell ya, these dealers will buy bulk bargain parts to resell, where they are sure they can get by with it. They were faking ACDelco stuff already in the 80's

 

[Wade195]

I'm almost 62, and was in the auto parts business for many yrs early in life. Until the last 10-12 yrs, I'm pretty much right there with you. But now, the manufacturing folks are worried far more about initial profit, than they are reliability. Some of the china type crap is being used on brand new stuff now. Bearings are an example for me - especially all these hub bearing failures everywhere. A huge part of that junk is "made in the us" but to an inferior spec to meet manufacturers price point demands. I tell everyone who works on their own stuff to jump in a forum - Chevy - Ford - Ram etc etc etc. The techs who frequent those places will tell ya quick what to buy, and what to stay away from. In this day and time, we have to really do our due diligence to investigate what we're buying, before we buy it.

I wonder how many fake name brand parts cHinA is funneling thru Amazon now… as I've heard a lot of stories from folks in regards to such. And I'll tell ya, these dealers will buy bulk bargain parts to resell, where they are sure they can get by with it. They were faking ACDelco stuff already in the 80's

Wow.

Thank you.

 

[Cuttin Caller]

Is it back in yet?

 

[Tenntrapper]

Is it back in yet?

Yes

 

[Tenntrapper]

Looking for some help as my local ford dealer was very "meh" about offering up anything.

2018 F150 Lariat
75k miles
3.5 ecoboost, FX4, tow package

Truck overheats ~slightly~ after 45 mins or so of driving on the interstate. My temperature gauge is digital and usually shows an arbitrary level of just below half. After 45 mins or so on the interstate, I'll hit a hill and the truck drop shifts to maintain ~74mph with cruise control. When this happens, depending on the size of hill, a number will appear above my gauge. Starts at 228*, and increases if I continue to let it cruise control up the hill. If I kill the cruise control and let it coast it quickly drops down to 226* and below and the number goes away. I've never let it go above 232*. According to ford, 230+ is mildly overheating with damage not occurring until 245+. If I stay below 65mph it doesn't have issues even when it drop shifts up the hills.

Coolant is topped off and rides at the max fill line. Radiator is clear (with the exception of a fly or two, but no major blockages). My guess is either the high fan isn't working (or its sensor isn't working), or the thermostat has gone bad. Any other ideas or ways to test these two theories?

Thanks in advance!

Ok, I did a little googling. Looks like the mishimoto(?) radiator is one option. Locking out gears 8-10 is another (on hills). Basically what you are doing...lower gear, higher rpms.
It's not just your truck either. Apparently it's a well known problem.
Check this thread. There is another 30 page thread embedded within....all about that engine over heating while towing...

Overheating while towing ideas

www.f150ecoboost.net

 

[Snake]

The system works on a closed loop, if the cap doesn't seal the system will not perform correctly

Exactly and it won't keep the required pressure for the engine to cool properly.

 

[Tenntrapper]

Exactly and it won't keep the required pressure for the engine to cool properly.

Pressure raises the temperature that water boils.

 

[Snake]

Pressure raises the temperature that water boils.

I agree but if your thermostat is working properly it will cool off as it should . We was having heating issues on a extra car we had a 1995 Suzuki , the water would sound like it was bubbling . Thought it might be a head gasket but didn't have the symptoms so decided to try and change radiator cap...solved the problem .

 

[Tenntrapper]

I agree but if your thermostat is working properly it will cool off as it should . We was having heating issues on a extra car we had a 1995 Suzuki , the water would sound like it was bubbling . Thought it might be a head gasket but didn't have the symptoms so decided to try and change radiator cap...solved the problem .

Yep, makes sense. Water was boiling because not under pressure.

 

[Snake]

Yep, makes sense. Water was boiling because not under pressure.

It's the cheapest solution if it helps and if it dont you've not lost much money .

 

[HottyToddy]

I replaced the radiator cap last Thursday. Had the same issue on the way home. $17, worth a shot.

I'm really thinking it's my thermostat. Have an appointment with ford next Monday - hopefully they'll resolve it.

Another question - this truck/engine has a 2 fan system. Does anyone know if one fan is always on (low) and the other only comes on when needed (high), or if they both run low and both kick into high when needed? I started my truck ~almost~ cold (had been sitting for 5 or so hours) and both fans were running at startup. To the naked eye and ear, they seemed to be spinning the same speed. Makes me wonder if they're both two speed fans, or if something is going on there.

Thanks for all the help so far!

 

[HottyToddy]

Is it back in yet?

Thank you!

 

[Bucket]

Is it back in yet?