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If i had a bunch of big amp dewalt/milwaukee batteries it might be worth a try.But always check the rating of every unit to be powered with it just to make sure.Dont know why anyone would want to purchase these batteries to build there setup,only advantage is canoe or really small boat with no room.You can get a bigger starting battery,lithium,wetcell or agm.Add a electronics battery up front alot cheaper with good results also.I have been helping install electronics on boats since march 2022 and we have only done one drill battery setup.We have done away with drill battery setups and either do an electronics battery or a bigger start battery setup to replace them.
 
Thanks for all the advice. So I guess the Dewalt system is now out of the question. Don't really want to run wires from the back, even though I have enough marine 8 gage to do it. Thinking of putting a lithium battery in the rod compartment with the black box. Now should I use a small 32 Ah lithium battery or a larger regular size lithium battery. I know you can't keep or charge the small batteries in the boat and I'm ok with that. Just not sure which way to go.
 
Now should I use a small 32 Ah lithium battery or a larger regular size lithium battery.
I am running my black box and 1222 on a 54ah lithium. I've fished 10 hours continuously with no issues. My son is running his black box on an 18ah lithium (screen unit is hooked to a different battery). He has fished 8 hours with no issues. I would say a 32ah would be good to run the screen and box longer than most people are going to fish. My 54ah is probably overkill.
 
Was referring to the small portable batteries that can't be kept or changed in the boat. At least that is what the web site says. Its one of the batteries that garmin recommends on their website.
 
Was referring to the small portable batteries that can't be kept or changed in the boat. At least that is what the web site says. Its one of the batteries that garmin recommends on their website.

those are NMC "lithium-ion" batteries used for ice fishing kits. same chemistry as drill batteries. the same battery chemistry that causes yacht "toy" fires that we always hear about.

when looking for lithium battery for a boat, it needs to be an lifep04 type battery. a good rule of thumb is to calculate capacity by the max current draw of the device even if it may not pull max. that will give you some reaerve on high gain and bright backlight settings. a gls10 is about 4 amps and a 126 is a little over 3 amps. thats 7 amps max total although typical 50-70% gain will probably be around 4-5 amps for both. now just multiply that number by the max hours you will fish in a day. this will be in amp hours(ah) and the size battery you need.
 
yeah most of the cheaper chinese batteries will work, ionic, li time, power queen, chinz. they are surprisingly well built packs. would stay away from weize and dakota though.
 
i wouldnt do it, even to the gls10 and i surely wouldnt to an echomap mfd. the transient (not homeless people) from those batteries can be enough to burnout the first LDO regulator in the power section.

garmin and lowrance doesnt recommend it but humminbird said the helix can take the transient spike. i kind of doubt it since they use the same type circuit but hey they will repair it for you for about $400.

garmin has also said that theyve already had to repair several from folks using these batteries. ive seen a couple burned out as well.

folks listen to this stuff on youtube and social media and take it as gospel. usually from someone that posts the spec page out of the manual without very little knowledge of electronics.

it also happens with installers and lithium battery salemen. they claim that 16v batteries will use less power and run cooler than 12v. this is pretty much nonsense. run 16v to an input of a 10v output LDO and it gets you 6v (3/7w) heat dissipation of over 100 degrees of extra heat dissipation. a lot of heat for an LDO thats not heatsinked and will lead to premature failure. its another reason minn kota issues a warning with LFP batteries and only running their motors at 85%. ive seen these motors get so hot on 36v motors that it peels the paint off them.

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So is this saying you shouldn't use a lithium battery? For example an ionic ?
 
Thanks. Now it looks like I will be going with the ionic 12 volt 50Ah for $350. May be over kill, but the 30Ah is $300, so for $50 I get 20 more Ah.
Sounds like the best choice for sure. I use Li-time batteries and have had zero problems out of them. I've got three on my boat and the biggest is the 24v 100ah I believe and it's been great
 
So is this saying you shouldn't use a lithium battery? For example an ionic ?

theyre fine as well as any "12.8v" lifep04 drop in battery. im thinking minn kotas warning was more geared to 24v or 36v brushed trolling motors not to run them over 85%. when you hit a pedal with lead acid batteries the voltage sags down. this sag voltage is pretty much where they designed the motors to run. brushless motors you can run them at the higher voltages and power that lithium can supply.


i wouldnt use any NMC lithium batteries for fish finders in a boat. if the cells get wet and catch fire it will more than likely burn through your boat before it burns out. the 16v batteries are pretty much a sales gimmick.
 
i wouldnt do it, even to the gls10 and i surely wouldnt to an echomap mfd. the transient (not homeless people) from those batteries can be enough to burnout the first LDO regulator in the power section.

garmin and lowrance doesnt recommend it but humminbird said the helix can take the transient spike. i kind of doubt it since they use the same type circuit but hey they will repair it for you for about $400.

garmin has also said that theyve already had to repair several from folks using these batteries. ive seen a couple burned out as well.

folks listen to this stuff on youtube and social media and take it as gospel. usually from someone that posts the spec page out of the manual without very little knowledge of electronics.

it also happens with installers and lithium battery salemen. they claim that 16v batteries will use less power and run cooler than 12v. this is pretty much nonsense. run 16v to an input of a 10v output LDO and it gets you 6v (3/7w) heat dissipation of over 100 degrees of extra heat dissipation. a lot of heat for an LDO thats not heatsinked and will lead to premature failure. its another reason minn kota issues a warning with LFP batteries and only running their motors at 85%. ive seen these motors get so hot on 36v motors that it peels the paint off

Thanks. Now it looks like I will be going with the ionic 12 volt 50Ah for $350. May be over kill, but the 30Ah is $300, so for $50 I get 20 more Ah.
We sell them at performance fishing electronics.Instock also if you are close to camden tn.
 
Refurbished ionic usually doesnt have much warranty,usually a yr i think.I would buy new non refurbished in
We sell them at performance fishing electronics.Instock also if you are close to camden tn.
I'm about an hour and a half away. Are you selling the 50Ah's at the same discount of $349. If so, I'd rather deal with you then purchasing it on line. Let me know, I can come down on Thursday.
 
So is this saying you shouldn't use a lithium battery? For example an ionic ?
coincidently, heard of another guy ran his 36v ultrex for 2 hours on level 10 and it popped the 60A breaker. probably good it popped the breaker but 8A over max rated is not good for his motor or controller.
 

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