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Tennessee Hunting Forums
Quality Deer Management
When the time is right you sub-soil
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<blockquote data-quote="Popcorn" data-source="post: 5195867" data-attributes="member: 20151"><p>I agree with the farmers 100% </p><p>Dont get me wrong as I am pro no-till as I strongly encourage multi species plantings to help improve the soil... BUT</p><p></p><p>With soils that are heavy in clay or chirt and low in organic matter compaction is a given. Weather, animal hooves, vehicles, shallow tillage, (no till drills are still a tillage tool) spray rigs, bush hog, crimper / roller even the atv / utv contribute to compaction. Even the weight of the soil itself can contribute, good soil is light and fluffy. </p><p></p><p>Dont make the mistake of believing that compacted soil just effects root systems. A much greater value lies in water retention versus runnoff. </p><p></p><p>A brief example;</p><p>I have a 7 acre pasture that is in the head of a hollow. I have a pond that the entire 7 acres drains to. Before last winter every rain caused that pond to flow out the overflow pipe. This year the pond as overflowed 1 time due to a torrential rain that lasted hours. The difference----</p><p>I used a renovator (shallow depth sub-soiler) on the 7 acres. Cutting and lifting 8 inches down every 16 inches against the flow of water. This year I have had orchard grass and red clover under heavy graze all summer and it has produced an unprecidented amount of grass. this because of water penetration through once compacted soils that was reserved deeper in the soil then given up as needed. to roots that were enabled to reach further down to water and nutrients not before reachable.</p><p></p><p>Opening and disrupting the soil on occasion also allows organic matter, oxygen, good bacteria and other biology lower into the soil which can only be good.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Popcorn, post: 5195867, member: 20151"] I agree with the farmers 100% Dont get me wrong as I am pro no-till as I strongly encourage multi species plantings to help improve the soil... BUT With soils that are heavy in clay or chirt and low in organic matter compaction is a given. Weather, animal hooves, vehicles, shallow tillage, (no till drills are still a tillage tool) spray rigs, bush hog, crimper / roller even the atv / utv contribute to compaction. Even the weight of the soil itself can contribute, good soil is light and fluffy. Dont make the mistake of believing that compacted soil just effects root systems. A much greater value lies in water retention versus runnoff. A brief example; I have a 7 acre pasture that is in the head of a hollow. I have a pond that the entire 7 acres drains to. Before last winter every rain caused that pond to flow out the overflow pipe. This year the pond as overflowed 1 time due to a torrential rain that lasted hours. The difference---- I used a renovator (shallow depth sub-soiler) on the 7 acres. Cutting and lifting 8 inches down every 16 inches against the flow of water. This year I have had orchard grass and red clover under heavy graze all summer and it has produced an unprecidented amount of grass. this because of water penetration through once compacted soils that was reserved deeper in the soil then given up as needed. to roots that were enabled to reach further down to water and nutrients not before reachable. Opening and disrupting the soil on occasion also allows organic matter, oxygen, good bacteria and other biology lower into the soil which can only be good. [/QUOTE]
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When the time is right you sub-soil
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