Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New Trophy's
New trophy room comments
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Classifieds
Trophy Room
New items
New comments
Latest content
Latest updates
Latest reviews
Author list
Series list
Search showcase
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Tennessee Gun Owners Forums
Reloading
Remington Primers CS call
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Hunter 257W" data-source="post: 4234725" data-attributes="member: 12277"><p>Yeah, to say that any primer is so sensitive that seating it .003 to .005 too deep is going to make it fail is crazy. Not one in 1,000 reloaders ever even measure this dimension, including yours truly. I've always gone by feel when seating primers and never had a problem except with my Marlin 336 and that had nothing at all to do with a primer failure but instead was a gun issue(main spring). I guess the guys at Remington just don't want to admit that they don't know why your ammo failed to fire. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> </p><p></p><p>Lance, I experienced the problem about bolt handle position you are talking about. I'd never even considered the bolt having to be fully down before I stocked a model 98 Mauser barreled action with a partially inletted stock where I had to finish the bolt handle cut. I thought I had removed enough stock material to let the bolt handle go down all the way. I got a couple of rounds of ammo and went to test my "new" rifle. The darned thing just "clicked" and left somewhat shallow but mostly adequate looking primer dents but refused to fire. I was about to pull my hair out because I had test fired it, strapped to a big piece of wood, with no stock and it fired. I finally noticed that the stock cut for the bolt handle was too shallow and wasn't letting the bolt handle go down all the way. If the bolt handle doesn't go all the way down, the slot in the rear bottom of the bolt, which cams the striker rearward when cocking, doesn't get out of the way of the striker when it tires to drop. In other words, the striker cocking piece hits the camming surface of the bolt body and uses part of it's energy rotating the bolt handle down. In the case of my rifle the unfinished stock prevented the firing pin/striker from ever going all the way forward. In a rifle with a good, fully finished stock, you'd run into the situation I described above where the striker is hitting the cam surface of the bolt body and using part of it's energy slamming the bolt handle down. It might fire and it might not. Ignition could get erratic.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Hunter 257W, post: 4234725, member: 12277"] Yeah, to say that any primer is so sensitive that seating it .003 to .005 too deep is going to make it fail is crazy. Not one in 1,000 reloaders ever even measure this dimension, including yours truly. I've always gone by feel when seating primers and never had a problem except with my Marlin 336 and that had nothing at all to do with a primer failure but instead was a gun issue(main spring). I guess the guys at Remington just don't want to admit that they don't know why your ammo failed to fire. :) Lance, I experienced the problem about bolt handle position you are talking about. I'd never even considered the bolt having to be fully down before I stocked a model 98 Mauser barreled action with a partially inletted stock where I had to finish the bolt handle cut. I thought I had removed enough stock material to let the bolt handle go down all the way. I got a couple of rounds of ammo and went to test my "new" rifle. The darned thing just "clicked" and left somewhat shallow but mostly adequate looking primer dents but refused to fire. I was about to pull my hair out because I had test fired it, strapped to a big piece of wood, with no stock and it fired. I finally noticed that the stock cut for the bolt handle was too shallow and wasn't letting the bolt handle go down all the way. If the bolt handle doesn't go all the way down, the slot in the rear bottom of the bolt, which cams the striker rearward when cocking, doesn't get out of the way of the striker when it tires to drop. In other words, the striker cocking piece hits the camming surface of the bolt body and uses part of it's energy rotating the bolt handle down. In the case of my rifle the unfinished stock prevented the firing pin/striker from ever going all the way forward. In a rifle with a good, fully finished stock, you'd run into the situation I described above where the striker is hitting the cam surface of the bolt body and using part of it's energy slamming the bolt handle down. It might fire and it might not. Ignition could get erratic. [/QUOTE]
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Tennessee Gun Owners Forums
Reloading
Remington Primers CS call
Top