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My lesson for the day!
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<blockquote data-quote="WTM" data-source="post: 5785288" data-attributes="member: 6230"><p>like [USER=16430]@jlanecr500[/USER] pointed out, common B-. a continuous flashing red is no mfd detected and it makes that connection thru the ethernet bus. that cable is shielded and terminated on both ends. when you have a difference in potential between the two it creates an EMI along the entire shield foil and basically blocks the 5v data running across it. hence no handshake between the gls10 and the mfd. if the EMI is low enough it may work, but you are just introducing noise into your system and could potentially damage the ethernet ports.</p><p></p><p>another common mistake folks make is running a ground from the skeg of their trolling motor and terminating it inside the controller. instead of running it back and terminating B- common of the TM string and the house/cranking battery. if they have an aluminum boat then they just created a sacrificial anode out of their entire boat.</p><p></p><p>yet another mistake is adding a house battery for their main console fuse box and never terminating the the B- to the cranking battery. the needle guages will sometimes move the other direction if at all.</p><p></p><p>[USER=1801]@deerfanatic[/USER] explained the way large boats terminate all battery B- to a common terminal block and is basic wiring recommendations by ABYC standards.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WTM, post: 5785288, member: 6230"] like [USER=16430]@jlanecr500[/USER] pointed out, common B-. a continuous flashing red is no mfd detected and it makes that connection thru the ethernet bus. that cable is shielded and terminated on both ends. when you have a difference in potential between the two it creates an EMI along the entire shield foil and basically blocks the 5v data running across it. hence no handshake between the gls10 and the mfd. if the EMI is low enough it may work, but you are just introducing noise into your system and could potentially damage the ethernet ports. another common mistake folks make is running a ground from the skeg of their trolling motor and terminating it inside the controller. instead of running it back and terminating B- common of the TM string and the house/cranking battery. if they have an aluminum boat then they just created a sacrificial anode out of their entire boat. yet another mistake is adding a house battery for their main console fuse box and never terminating the the B- to the cranking battery. the needle guages will sometimes move the other direction if at all. [USER=1801]@deerfanatic[/USER] explained the way large boats terminate all battery B- to a common terminal block and is basic wiring recommendations by ABYC standards. [/QUOTE]
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