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Lithium batteries
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<blockquote data-quote="WTM" data-source="post: 5653049" data-attributes="member: 6230"><p>i wasnt going to answer any more technical questions on here due to the "feeling smart comment" on another thread but i will on this one since you helped me a ton getting started in fly fishing.</p><p></p><p>those are not the same chemistries and neither are the ones on yacht boat fires of late. those are NMC (nickel, manganese, cobolt) mainly due to thier run times for bicycles and water toys. they are also the same type that catch fire in tesla's. they are a liquid chemistry that when shorted, create a thermal runaway reaction when the cobolt oxidizes.</p><p></p><p>these marine batteries (with the exception of the higher voltage labeled NMC's and drill batteries) are Lifep04 chemistry. this is a solid chemistry that doesnt exhibit the oxidation properties of NMC. the worst you are going to see is more than likely a little smoke and melted plastic. although mind my comments about the dakota lithium problems with their BMS'.</p><p></p><p>also do not use any battery right now that is labeled as a solid state battery unless you know for sure they have used the solid state chemistry. some are being shipped out with Lipo (lithium polymer) which is about as reactive as NMC and not to be confused with Lifepo4.</p><p></p><p>we are now using some NaNi (sodium nickel) batteries backups for our high bandwidth routers and they seem to be doing the job with zero chance of fire or smoke on failure. lol, although there havent been any failures yet. i think the future is sodium and Li solid state for small battery cells.</p><p></p><p>as far as starting batteries and higher voltages on certain equipment, i wont rehash that.</p><p></p><p>anyhoo if its labeled as a Lifepo4 then its relatively safe. just remember to fuse at the battery with the correct size fuse and type for the feeder conductor and the appropriate size fuse after any fuse/terminal blocks up to the device and use a $2 positive post insulator.</p><p></p><p>for lithiums or paralled lead acid, a class T type fuses should really be used. if your installer says otherwise or has never heard of the ABYC standards then find another installer.</p><p></p><p>hope it didnt sound like i was speaking chinese or trying to sound smart, just trying to help folks not to burn their stuff or themselves up. gotta go breaks over. toodleloo.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WTM, post: 5653049, member: 6230"] i wasnt going to answer any more technical questions on here due to the "feeling smart comment" on another thread but i will on this one since you helped me a ton getting started in fly fishing. those are not the same chemistries and neither are the ones on yacht boat fires of late. those are NMC (nickel, manganese, cobolt) mainly due to thier run times for bicycles and water toys. they are also the same type that catch fire in tesla's. they are a liquid chemistry that when shorted, create a thermal runaway reaction when the cobolt oxidizes. these marine batteries (with the exception of the higher voltage labeled NMC's and drill batteries) are Lifep04 chemistry. this is a solid chemistry that doesnt exhibit the oxidation properties of NMC. the worst you are going to see is more than likely a little smoke and melted plastic. although mind my comments about the dakota lithium problems with their BMS'. also do not use any battery right now that is labeled as a solid state battery unless you know for sure they have used the solid state chemistry. some are being shipped out with Lipo (lithium polymer) which is about as reactive as NMC and not to be confused with Lifepo4. we are now using some NaNi (sodium nickel) batteries backups for our high bandwidth routers and they seem to be doing the job with zero chance of fire or smoke on failure. lol, although there havent been any failures yet. i think the future is sodium and Li solid state for small battery cells. as far as starting batteries and higher voltages on certain equipment, i wont rehash that. anyhoo if its labeled as a Lifepo4 then its relatively safe. just remember to fuse at the battery with the correct size fuse and type for the feeder conductor and the appropriate size fuse after any fuse/terminal blocks up to the device and use a $2 positive post insulator. for lithiums or paralled lead acid, a class T type fuses should really be used. if your installer says otherwise or has never heard of the ABYC standards then find another installer. hope it didnt sound like i was speaking chinese or trying to sound smart, just trying to help folks not to burn their stuff or themselves up. gotta go breaks over. toodleloo. [/QUOTE]
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