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Archery Hunting Tennessee
Bow Hunting
Heavy vs. Light
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<blockquote data-quote="102" data-source="post: 5867493" data-attributes="member: 1462"><p>One of the fun things about bowhunting is playing around with your set up. </p><p>A lot of guys like to tinker. I'm one of them. </p><p></p><p>But if you really care about the truth about light vs. heavy arrow set ups...I guess you need to know the "credentials" of the person typing this page.</p><p></p><p>I am a serious whitetail deer BOWhunter. I hunt mostly Southeast Tennessee. Almost all public land that has heavy pressured (educated, spooky, wary, mature) string dropping whitetail.</p><p></p><p>I am surrounded (in my circle of friends) by serious bowhunters who do the same.</p><p></p><p>WE have collectively killed LITERALLY THOUSANDS, I mean THOUSANDS of whitetails. Over HALF by arrow. I have been involved with MANY of these friends bow set ups and often am involved with blood trailing decisions, if not physically there.</p><p></p><p>I have pictures and in may cases, videos, of ALL of my bow kills which as of the end of last 23-24 season, now totals 366 whitetail deer bow kills. And 34 gun kills. Plus 1 xbow kill.</p><p></p><p>All 366 bow kills were a compound bow. I have killed one deer with a bow but it is not included in my bow kill total.</p><p></p><p>I killed 21 whitetails last season. All vertical bow. (also 4 hogs)</p><p></p><p>I have ALL of my kill tags. Except the very first (my first deer) ,which was a bow kill, in 1981 at Arnold Air Force base in 1981.</p><p></p><p>I killed all these deer (because I don't "harvest" squirrels, fish, or any other living creatures that I consume).</p><p></p><p>I record STOOOPID amounts of data for each kill.</p><p>Including, but not limited to,</p><p></p><p>DATE</p><p>TIME OF DAY</p><p>MALE/FEMALE</p><p>NUMBER OF POINTS</p><p>DRESSED WEIGHT</p><p>WEAPON USED</p><p>DISTANCE OF SHOT</p><p>DISTANCE TO RECOVERY</p><p>ORGAN AFFECTED</p><p>WEATHER/TEMP</p><p>KILL TAG NUMBER</p><p>LOCATION OF KILL</p><p></p><p></p><p>There are countless videos documenting wound channels of almost every kill.</p><p></p><p>I have shot 600 + grain arrows tipped with a Rocky Mountain Supreme 150 grain 1.5 " fixed.</p><p>Killed several deer with them. Worked well. Slow as molasses in winter.</p><p></p><p>I've shot every kind of broadhead (type) available.</p><p>Fixed</p><p>Mechanical</p><p>Cheap/expensive</p><p>Cut on contact</p><p>Chisel tip</p><p>single bevil</p><p>2 blade</p><p>5 blade </p><p>spinning (Razorback 5)</p><p>Forward deploy</p><p>Rearward deploy</p><p>Dull</p><p>Sharp</p><p>SCARY sharp (IMMENSELY BEST)</p><p>1 piece</p><p>replaceable blade</p><p>And on and on...</p><p></p><p>I've shot light, fast and loud (High Country Safari with an over draw on 2213 aluminums. Sounded like a 22 pistol going off) OLD technology.</p><p></p><p>And heavy, quiet and slow. Jennings round wheel 46"? OLD technology. Very quiet, forgiving, slow, accurate. </p><p></p><p>I feel EXTREMELYconfident in making the following statement...</p><p>I'm certain I have either put an arrow through, or been on the blood trail of, every conceivable bow shot deer imaginable.</p><p>And many of these bow shot deer...MANY times.</p><p></p><p>I counsel MANY bowhunters every bow season concerning their hits.</p><p></p><p>So here is what my opinion is concerning light vs heavy arrow:</p><p>Like Ski said...if you don't make the right shot, you are probably gonna have problems (paraphrased).</p><p></p><p>Accuracy is KING!</p><p>After all, if you don't hit the target at all...</p><p></p><p>The NUMBER ONE reason why most bowhunters miss the bullseye (spelled killing shot) is because they do not put the pin in the correct place that corresponds with the distance.</p><p></p><p>In a perfect world...there would be no arch in archery. But there is. </p><p>Unlike rifles that shoot relatively FLAT at ranges inside 100 yards (common in the South), bows drop dramatically at distance.</p><p></p><p>So there has to be a balance between speed, noise, and most importantly...ACCURACY!</p><p></p><p>FOR ME, (not necessarily everyone), if I am at full draw on a P/Y buck at 10 yards, that looks up at me and BOLTS to 34 yards (really happened), I want to know I can make a slight adjustment on my pin position, really quick by holding a tad higher, and make the shot.</p><p></p><p>The yardage is not nearly as critical at 265fps as say 230 fps.</p><p></p><p>And my bow is lower in draw weight than it used to be. At 60 pounds and a 385 grain FINISHED arrow, I get a fairly quiet, 265fps (which gives me a top pin that is set at 25 yards). Which allows me to hold at the bottom third inside 17 yards, and middle body at 26-30 yards which allows for deer drop.</p><p></p><p>Listen, there is NO "PLAN B" for center punching the top BALL of a humerus in a large, mature whitetail with a dressed weight over 180. Especially standing at 25 plus yards. I don't care how heavy your finished arrow is. Blowing through a shoulder usually means blowing through the wide, flat part of the scapula. Not really thick bone!</p><p></p><p>Don't kid yourself.</p><p></p><p>And ANY decent set up, expandable or no, will pass clean through the scapula of almost any whitetail inside 20 yards as long as you don't hit the scapular crest. And then, ALL bets are off.</p><p></p><p>So I chose a shoulder (mine), distance, forgiving set up that is accurate, quiet, and deadly.</p><p></p><p>Heavy set ups work well too, but past 20 yards most bowhunters fall apart on quick distance judging while under pressure. And an error in distance judging of 3 yards at 30 yards is really severe for bows with bigger pin gaps.</p><p></p><p>I now and have for the last 3 season (60 bow kills), used Magnus Stingers, Buzzcuts, and Black Hornets.There is no doubt, Magnus has the BEST customer service available with the best product I have ever used. ESPECIALLY when you couple them with the stay sharp sharpening system!</p><p></p><p>Honestly if I didn't use Magnus it would be crazy expensive to bow hunt deer for me!</p><p></p><p>Shoot, find, re-sharpen OR replace...FREE</p><p></p><p>BTW...anyone can say, :"I've killed dozens or hundreds of deer with my bow, few can back it up!</p><p></p><p>I'm not claiming to be the best bowhunter, but I have killed 366 whitetails with a bow and recorded loads of data.</p><p></p><p>Actually I am claiming to be an expert on KILLING, not hunting, whitetails with a bow and arrow. Meaning where to put the arrow, how alert the deer is before the shot (reaction time/aim point), where to aim when the deer is standing at any angle to best affect a lethal outcome, how to read the sound of the hit, the sign on the arrow especially smell, appropriate wait times before trailing/grid search begins, and of course interpreting blood.</p><p></p><p>Also keep this in mind...my average shot for 366 bow kills=19 yards</p><p>deadliest shot=kidneys</p><p>Longest=52 yds</p><p>closest=UNDER my stand</p><p></p><p>As long as you have at least 40lbs KE you should be good.</p><p></p><p>Also remember this. People talk about a "Plan B" in reference to shooting a single bevel bone splitting set up. Makes me laugh.</p><p>There's a WHOLE lot more "Plan B" gut area where you really NEED the largest and sharpest broadhead available. But those frequently divert in impact. Especially on ribs but also on angled shots that divert in opening. So agin...pros and cons.</p><p></p><p>Honestly...here is what you need.</p><p>1-ACCURACY</p><p>2-a poundage you can easily pull back while sitting down drawing straight between your knees, full winter clothing.</p><p>3-ACCURACY</p><p>4-as flat shooting a set up as you can shoot ACCURATELY with the least noise.</p><p>5-Super sharp/ACCURATE broadhead.</p><p></p><p>Hope this helps.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="102, post: 5867493, member: 1462"] One of the fun things about bowhunting is playing around with your set up. A lot of guys like to tinker. I'm one of them. But if you really care about the truth about light vs. heavy arrow set ups...I guess you need to know the "credentials" of the person typing this page. I am a serious whitetail deer BOWhunter. I hunt mostly Southeast Tennessee. Almost all public land that has heavy pressured (educated, spooky, wary, mature) string dropping whitetail. I am surrounded (in my circle of friends) by serious bowhunters who do the same. WE have collectively killed LITERALLY THOUSANDS, I mean THOUSANDS of whitetails. Over HALF by arrow. I have been involved with MANY of these friends bow set ups and often am involved with blood trailing decisions, if not physically there. I have pictures and in may cases, videos, of ALL of my bow kills which as of the end of last 23-24 season, now totals 366 whitetail deer bow kills. And 34 gun kills. Plus 1 xbow kill. All 366 bow kills were a compound bow. I have killed one deer with a bow but it is not included in my bow kill total. I killed 21 whitetails last season. All vertical bow. (also 4 hogs) I have ALL of my kill tags. Except the very first (my first deer) ,which was a bow kill, in 1981 at Arnold Air Force base in 1981. I killed all these deer (because I don't "harvest" squirrels, fish, or any other living creatures that I consume). I record STOOOPID amounts of data for each kill. Including, but not limited to, DATE TIME OF DAY MALE/FEMALE NUMBER OF POINTS DRESSED WEIGHT WEAPON USED DISTANCE OF SHOT DISTANCE TO RECOVERY ORGAN AFFECTED WEATHER/TEMP KILL TAG NUMBER LOCATION OF KILL There are countless videos documenting wound channels of almost every kill. I have shot 600 + grain arrows tipped with a Rocky Mountain Supreme 150 grain 1.5 " fixed. Killed several deer with them. Worked well. Slow as molasses in winter. I've shot every kind of broadhead (type) available. Fixed Mechanical Cheap/expensive Cut on contact Chisel tip single bevil 2 blade 5 blade spinning (Razorback 5) Forward deploy Rearward deploy Dull Sharp SCARY sharp (IMMENSELY BEST) 1 piece replaceable blade And on and on... I've shot light, fast and loud (High Country Safari with an over draw on 2213 aluminums. Sounded like a 22 pistol going off) OLD technology. And heavy, quiet and slow. Jennings round wheel 46"? OLD technology. Very quiet, forgiving, slow, accurate. I feel EXTREMELYconfident in making the following statement... I'm certain I have either put an arrow through, or been on the blood trail of, every conceivable bow shot deer imaginable. And many of these bow shot deer...MANY times. I counsel MANY bowhunters every bow season concerning their hits. So here is what my opinion is concerning light vs heavy arrow: Like Ski said...if you don't make the right shot, you are probably gonna have problems (paraphrased). Accuracy is KING! After all, if you don't hit the target at all... The NUMBER ONE reason why most bowhunters miss the bullseye (spelled killing shot) is because they do not put the pin in the correct place that corresponds with the distance. In a perfect world...there would be no arch in archery. But there is. Unlike rifles that shoot relatively FLAT at ranges inside 100 yards (common in the South), bows drop dramatically at distance. So there has to be a balance between speed, noise, and most importantly...ACCURACY! FOR ME, (not necessarily everyone), if I am at full draw on a P/Y buck at 10 yards, that looks up at me and BOLTS to 34 yards (really happened), I want to know I can make a slight adjustment on my pin position, really quick by holding a tad higher, and make the shot. The yardage is not nearly as critical at 265fps as say 230 fps. And my bow is lower in draw weight than it used to be. At 60 pounds and a 385 grain FINISHED arrow, I get a fairly quiet, 265fps (which gives me a top pin that is set at 25 yards). Which allows me to hold at the bottom third inside 17 yards, and middle body at 26-30 yards which allows for deer drop. Listen, there is NO "PLAN B" for center punching the top BALL of a humerus in a large, mature whitetail with a dressed weight over 180. Especially standing at 25 plus yards. I don't care how heavy your finished arrow is. Blowing through a shoulder usually means blowing through the wide, flat part of the scapula. Not really thick bone! Don't kid yourself. And ANY decent set up, expandable or no, will pass clean through the scapula of almost any whitetail inside 20 yards as long as you don't hit the scapular crest. And then, ALL bets are off. So I chose a shoulder (mine), distance, forgiving set up that is accurate, quiet, and deadly. Heavy set ups work well too, but past 20 yards most bowhunters fall apart on quick distance judging while under pressure. And an error in distance judging of 3 yards at 30 yards is really severe for bows with bigger pin gaps. I now and have for the last 3 season (60 bow kills), used Magnus Stingers, Buzzcuts, and Black Hornets.There is no doubt, Magnus has the BEST customer service available with the best product I have ever used. ESPECIALLY when you couple them with the stay sharp sharpening system! Honestly if I didn't use Magnus it would be crazy expensive to bow hunt deer for me! Shoot, find, re-sharpen OR replace...FREE BTW...anyone can say, :"I've killed dozens or hundreds of deer with my bow, few can back it up! I'm not claiming to be the best bowhunter, but I have killed 366 whitetails with a bow and recorded loads of data. Actually I am claiming to be an expert on KILLING, not hunting, whitetails with a bow and arrow. Meaning where to put the arrow, how alert the deer is before the shot (reaction time/aim point), where to aim when the deer is standing at any angle to best affect a lethal outcome, how to read the sound of the hit, the sign on the arrow especially smell, appropriate wait times before trailing/grid search begins, and of course interpreting blood. Also keep this in mind...my average shot for 366 bow kills=19 yards deadliest shot=kidneys Longest=52 yds closest=UNDER my stand As long as you have at least 40lbs KE you should be good. Also remember this. People talk about a "Plan B" in reference to shooting a single bevel bone splitting set up. Makes me laugh. There's a WHOLE lot more "Plan B" gut area where you really NEED the largest and sharpest broadhead available. But those frequently divert in impact. Especially on ribs but also on angled shots that divert in opening. So agin...pros and cons. Honestly...here is what you need. 1-ACCURACY 2-a poundage you can easily pull back while sitting down drawing straight between your knees, full winter clothing. 3-ACCURACY 4-as flat shooting a set up as you can shoot ACCURATELY with the least noise. 5-Super sharp/ACCURATE broadhead. Hope this helps. [/QUOTE]
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