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Muzzleloader
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<blockquote data-quote="Rancocas" data-source="post: 5268424" data-attributes="member: 2871"><p>I made them with a 2" circle 3/4" thick, instead of a ball. It takes up slightly less room in my bag than does a round one. Short, 3/4" stick and a longer, 3" or 4" stick attached into the narrow side of the wood circle. All wood, no brass. It resembles a lollypop with an extra, short stick. Very easy to make.</p><p></p><p>However, I no longer use a short starter. Just something less that I don't have to carry. I found that with a coned muzzle I can easily start the patched round ball with only thumb pressure. Ramrod pushes it down the rest of the way. </p><p>With a loading block, I just place the block with a patched ball over the muzzle and ram the ball down with the ramrod through the block. I make my .50 caliber loading blocks 3/8" thick so that a patched round ball sticks through it by about 1/8". That makes it easy to center the ball in the rifle muzzle.</p><p>For hunting I like a loading block with only 2 or 3 roundballs, but for target practice I use a block with anywhere up to 10 patched balls. I carry my loading blocks on a throng around my neck.</p><p>Short starters and loading blocks can be made quite plain, or they can be fancied up with carvings and/or brass or silver wire inlets. </p><p></p><p>Except for dressing up in colonial attire, I am a strictly traditional muzzleloader. I make my own powderhorns, powder measures, loading blocks, shot pouches, ball bags, another little bag to hold all the necessary ramrod attachments; I even made my own rifle. All of these things can be plain or decorated up to suit yourself.</p><p></p><p>For me, half the fun of muzzleloading is making my own gear. Next I want to try my hand at making a knife from an old file.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Rancocas, post: 5268424, member: 2871"] I made them with a 2" circle 3/4" thick, instead of a ball. It takes up slightly less room in my bag than does a round one. Short, 3/4" stick and a longer, 3" or 4" stick attached into the narrow side of the wood circle. All wood, no brass. It resembles a lollypop with an extra, short stick. Very easy to make. However, I no longer use a short starter. Just something less that I don't have to carry. I found that with a coned muzzle I can easily start the patched round ball with only thumb pressure. Ramrod pushes it down the rest of the way. With a loading block, I just place the block with a patched ball over the muzzle and ram the ball down with the ramrod through the block. I make my .50 caliber loading blocks 3/8" thick so that a patched round ball sticks through it by about 1/8". That makes it easy to center the ball in the rifle muzzle. For hunting I like a loading block with only 2 or 3 roundballs, but for target practice I use a block with anywhere up to 10 patched balls. I carry my loading blocks on a throng around my neck. Short starters and loading blocks can be made quite plain, or they can be fancied up with carvings and/or brass or silver wire inlets. Except for dressing up in colonial attire, I am a strictly traditional muzzleloader. I make my own powderhorns, powder measures, loading blocks, shot pouches, ball bags, another little bag to hold all the necessary ramrod attachments; I even made my own rifle. All of these things can be plain or decorated up to suit yourself. For me, half the fun of muzzleloading is making my own gear. Next I want to try my hand at making a knife from an old file. [/QUOTE]
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