Jordan/Turpin cane yelper

[Iglow]

I've been making these things for 31 years but never did any measurements or attempts to standardize the parts sizes, just kinda threw them together by eyeballing, Mr. Turpin's book ( and Jordan's) gave vague references to size but nothing specific.
Anyway, I went through the process of making one and documented the sizes of the parts and assembly if any of y'all want to make one.
I took some pics and will post 1 at a time.

Here are Mr. Turpin's instructions, the other page is a photo of his turned yelper.

 

[Iglow]

Ok, so these are the parts and sizes. A set of calipers is a must for this. The brass is a 45 Colt for the barrel and a 223 for the middle piece. The type of cane needed for the mouthpiece (to replace the hen wingbone if unavailable) is best from the cane you find in the woods away from the river bottoms, the soil isn't as good and cane growing there doesn't get as big. It grows thin with long round sections. The middle piece can be found in the woods patch but the barrel usually has to come from a river bottom cane patch cause it grows bigger there. Try to get as round as pieces as you can find and cut way more than you'll think you'll need cause it wouldn't seem so but it takes some time and many pieces to get the ones of the correct size. Get cane that is recently dead and brown but not dead too long cause it will be brittle. Recent dead cane has a smooth finish to it with no spots or roughness. When cutting it to size, score completely around it with a fine hack saw blade to prevent it from pulling slivers. Sand the ends and sand the cane with 120g sandpaper cause the raw cane has a tough, slick wax like finish on it that the glue won't stick to very well.

 

[Iglow]

Cut the brass by putting the base of the empty cartridge in a vise and pulling the hack saw blade toward you "with the grain" ,dragging may be a better word, then square the ends with a fine file. Fit and epoxy them on the barrel (45) and middle (223).
Fitting the middle to the barrel, take a sharp knife and "trim" the middle piece 1/2" up as shown while also "hollowing" the barrel to get a fit, try to split the difference between the 2 to get a strong fit.
Mr. Turpin said to use Amberoid glue, I don't know what that is, maybe something from the 1920's, but I used titebond 3 to glue the cane parts together.

 

[Iglow]

The mouthpiece is wrapped(served) like you would a fishing rod or bowstring with coarse poly/cotton button thread to take up the slack difference in diameter between the mouthpiece and 22 shell neck. When you glue it, use titebond on the mouthpiece cane part and epoxy on the thread/22 case part.

 

[Iglow]

Then let it sit till it's dry.

 

[Iglow]

I got this pic out of order, it's Mr. Turpin's drawing/explanation from his book.

 

[Iglow]

I like a cork gauge on my calls, you can get the corks at the Lowes hardware/ screw isle, the one with all the trays with specialty stuff. It's just about impossible to drill the hole centered freehand with a drill, I use a drill press and a bit just a little undersized of the mouthpiece.
I drill the cork first then cut it the thickness I want, sanding it square after. I sand a bevel on the mouthpiece, some like it square, anyway, let everything dry and try it out, moving the cork where you want it longer or shorter. Once you're sure glue it in place with titebond.
I finish mine with 3 coats of spare varnish then make a string lanyard for it from trot line string etc. and that's it.

 

[Derek]

Awesome post!

 

[Iglow]

3 coats of spar varnish and this one is done.

 

[muddyboots]

Very nice

 

[Soft Talker]

3 coats of spar varnish and this one is done.

Looks good. Let's hear how it sounds.

 

[Iglow]

 

[Southern Sportsman]

3 coats of spar varnish and this one is done.

Adding this to my to-do list now.

Thanks for the detailed explaination!

 

[Soft Talker]

Let' hear you run that bad boy. Craftmanship looks top shelf. I would guess if the internals were tuned right, it would be a player.