TSI work

JCDEERMAN

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If the chem you’re using on a target tree is immediately uphill from a crop tree, same thing if there’s runoff.
Good to know. I didn’t know that, but makes perfect sense. I know each variety of tree has a different root system, but what would be a general safe distance?
 

WTNBowHunter

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Honestly, I've hack-and-squirted less than an acre with positive results. But for an entire property - if that is your primary method of timber management - I would suggest to make a major impact at least several percent of the total timber acreage. Let's say 3-5%.
Is now a good time to hack & squirt with Dr. Harper’s mix? Enjoyed watching some of his videos on TSI (or FSI as he calls it)
 

Boll Weevil

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I know each variety of tree has a different root system, but what would be a general safe distance?
To be clear I'm no expert but 2 factors that immediately come to mind are soil type and topography. Heavy clay or loam in bottomground isn't likely to translocate much. In sandier soils that drain really well or have some gradient, soil-active chemical or over application is far more likely to move. Just know that tree roots can be several times the diameter of their crowns so maybe use that as a measure.
 

BSK

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Is now a good time to hack & squirt with Dr. Harper’s mix? Enjoyed watching some of his videos on TSI (or FSI as he calls it)
Each type of chemical has a best time for use. Some can be used any time the plant/tree is actively growing, and some are best used only when water is going down into the roots (mid to late Fall).
 

WTNBowHunter

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Each type of chemical has a best time for use. Some can be used any time the plant/tree is actively growing, and some are best used only when water is going down into the roots (mid to late Fall).
Can you use the Garlon 3A, water, and arsenal AC mix right now through February?
 

Boll Weevil

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That's one reason I like the ester + diesel as a carrier; can apply any time of year. For relatively young thin-barked species (beech, maple, privet, ironwood, hornbeam etc), it's basically chemical girdling. The diesel serves an a penetrant.

It's a lot more pleasant work in the winter vs summer with a backpack sprayer and a really good time to scout for both deer and turkeys.
 

Boll Weevil

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The diesel doesn’t bother the sprayer I’m assuming?
Hasn’t yet. You can use a shot of dawn dishwashing liquid, warm water, and switsh it around real well and run some thru the wand. So there’s none left to gum up the works. Mine works like the day I bought it and that’s been 8 or 9 years.
 
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budro2

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What herbicides do you prefer and at what ratio for the hack and squirt? Also what time of year is it most productive?
9 oz of [H1]Imazapyr 4 SL Herbicide[/H1] 53% mixed with 23 oz water, ( use industrial squirt bottle) hatchet works best in my opinion, ( eastwing handles are best) 1 hack per 4 in dbh, do not overfill gash with herbicide. spray chem on blade and let it run in to gash . I hit some species more like beech,soft maple, olive, honey locust, and sour wood, i want them gone.
do not overfill gash to where it runs out.
if a small target tree is close to a money tree, i dont use chem , jut hack it around a few times, i will hurt it enough it will eventually die.
when you get the hang of it, you can do 1 ac per hr on average, I just finished for the year, completed 190 ac. best time is fall , late summer. but any time after full leaf out and up to sap moving.

I worked on my place in tn last year up till feb and still had good results.

hope this helps
 
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Boone25/06

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Thanks I have done all kinds of habitat work but just never hack and squirt. I appreciate your knowledge and time to share your process. I will give it a try.
 
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