Need help from a mechanic?!?!

O

Ol' Split Toe

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Tennessee
So, my utv is smoking at a fairly specific time that I believe would indicate bad valve seals. It smokes blue on start up and for a short period afterwards ONLY after sitting for a few hours after being warmed up. It does not smoke on the initial start up of a morning. The question I have is, how much would it cost to replace the valve seals? The seals are only $9 for the pair, but I don't have the engine "know how" nor the time to accomplish this task. It is on a 2012 Bennche Bighorn 500.
 
TNGunsmoke

TNGunsmoke

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Look on you tube to see? I look a lot of things up on there just to decide if it's something I want to, have the time for, or figure out if it's something I want no part of trying to do.
 
O

Ol' Split Toe

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Messages
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Tennessee
Yes, and its pretty limited, but I am familiar enough with engines to know that it is nothing I have time for nor something I need to attempt to shadetree. That's why I am really wondering what kind of price I would be looking at to hire someone to replace them.
 
DaveB

DaveB

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Personally, the amount of work and misery is directly proportional to the tools you have, the moron who comes over to volunteer his help and does nothing but offer smarty-pants suggestions, and the ease of getting to the motor.

In a big block (390/406/427) ford you had to pull the head, same as a 327 chebbie or 389 poncho. You need a valve spring compressor. Since you have the head off, it may be time to examine the valve stems & seats looking for damage and or excessive wear. Since the heads are aluminum I am just assuming they have inserts for the valves to ride in so be sure they aren't falling out or scarred. You will need to replace the head gasket, probably the intake gasket, probably the exhaust gasket. Oh, a torque wrench.

Chipped, burnt, or otherwise not perfect valves you may want to replace. Stay with factory stuff.... If you want to get rid of burnt up carbon on the stems you will need protective glasses, a bench wire wheel, a smooth wheel, and a mild very very very mild abrasive. Carefully remove the carbon, gently polish smooth. Do the entire valve south of the carbon buildup line clear to the valve face. Avoid the bevel as that has to seal the combustion chamber. Be sure your oil return drain holes are clear. I always used to replace the clips aka locks that secured the valve stem into the retainers.

Sounds awful but is actual easy. I did this on a bunch of different FoMoCo engines and Chebby/Poncho junk.

I once rebuilt two heads and when I was done, I found 8 NEW seals. Sure enough, i had replaced 8 old with the 8 from the other side. That was when I stopped drinking PBR's while working.
 
B

BULL MOOSE

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DaveB":7mbf3j8v said:
Personally, the amount of work and misery is directly proportional to the tools you have, the moron who comes over to volunteer his help and does nothing but offer smarty-pants suggestions, and the ease of getting to the motor.

In a big block (390/406/427) ford you had to pull the head, same as a 327 chebbie or 389 poncho. You need a valve spring compressor. Since you have the head off, it may be time to examine the valve stems & seats looking for damage and or excessive wear. Since the heads are aluminum I am just assuming they have inserts for the valves to ride in so be sure they aren't falling out or scarred. You will need to replace the head gasket, probably the intake gasket, probably the exhaust gasket. Oh, a torque wrench.

Chipped, burnt, or otherwise not perfect valves you may want to replace. Stay with factory stuff.... If you want to get rid of burnt up carbon on the stems you will need protective glasses, a bench wire wheel, a smooth wheel, and a mild very very very mild abrasive. Carefully remove the carbon, gently polish smooth. Do the entire valve south of the carbon buildup line clear to the valve face. Avoid the bevel as that has to seal the combustion chamber. Be sure your oil return drain holes are clear. I always used to replace the clips aka locks that secured the valve stem into the retainers.

Sounds awful but is actual easy. I did this on a bunch of different FoMoCo engines and Chebby/Poncho junk.

I once rebuilt two heads and when I was done, I found 8 NEW seals. Sure enough, i had replaced 8 old with the 8 from the other side. That was when I stopped drinking PBR's while working.

Funny
 
B

BULL MOOSE

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Joined
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Messages
4,573
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DaveB":3g6xbsta said:
Personally, the amount of work and misery is directly proportional to the tools you have, the moron who comes over to volunteer his help and does nothing but offer smarty-pants suggestions, and the ease of getting to the motor.

In a big block (390/406/427) ford you had to pull the head, same as a 327 chebbie or 389 poncho. You need a valve spring compressor. Since you have the head off, it may be time to examine the valve stems & seats looking for damage and or excessive wear. Since the heads are aluminum I am just assuming they have inserts for the valves to ride in so be sure they aren't falling out or scarred. You will need to replace the head gasket, probably the intake gasket, probably the exhaust gasket. Oh, a torque wrench.

Chipped, burnt, or otherwise not perfect valves you may want to replace. Stay with factory stuff.... If you want to get rid of burnt up carbon on the stems you will need protective glasses, a bench wire wheel, a smooth wheel, and a mild very very very mild abrasive. Carefully remove the carbon, gently polish smooth. Do the entire valve south of the carbon buildup line clear to the valve face. Avoid the bevel as that has to seal the combustion chamber. Be sure your oil return drain holes are clear. I always used to replace the clips aka locks that secured the valve stem into the retainers.

Sounds awful but is actual easy. I did this on a bunch of different FoMoCo engines and Chebby/Poncho junk.

I once rebuilt two heads and when I was done, I found 8 NEW seals. Sure enough, i had replaced 8 old with the 8 from the other side. That was when I stopped drinking PBR's while working.

Funny
 
O

Ol' Split Toe

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Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
113
Location
Tennessee
mr.big":3srox6w5 said:
if it aint missing or losing power I would just keep the oil checked and ride on,,
Well I haven't ever really opened it up since I've had it, but between 3k and 3500 rpms, there is a noticeable rough spot. It's only noticeable if your driving, but it's almost like it's trying to flood itself out. When I add a little throttle up to around 3800, it smooths out. May be a totally separate issue, I don't know really. There's no miss, it idles and starts up like a new one.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 
double browtine

double browtine

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6,962
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Cheatham/Montgomery County
Try dumping a pint of seafoam into a full tank of non-ethanol fuel. And run through half the tank of fuel. It will help clean the carbon built up in the engine. Lucas Fuel treatment works great also.
 
O

Ol' Split Toe

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
113
Location
Tennessee
double browtine":6wdmy5rc said:
Try dumping a pint of seafoam into a full tank of non-ethanol fuel. And run through half the tank of fuel. It will help clean the carbon built up in the engine. Lucas Fuel treatment works great also.
Will do.......but the question remains, wat is the $$ I could be looking at for someone to replace the valve seals?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

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