Motor starting problem

dmonty

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I have a 2006 50 hp Mercury 2 stroke motor that won't start. Took the boat in fro service and told them about the problem starting, they checked it out and said the motor cold started 3 times so they did do anything to it. Took the boat out 3 days later and had some trouble getting it to start but it finally did and ran fine the rest of the day. Sunday I took the boat out again and motor would not start, motor turns over but does not start and after cranking it 4-5 times fuel/oil puddle can be seen around the back of the boat. What could this be ignition coils ? I put in new plugs already
 

Urban_Hunter

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Sounds like the water back pressure on the exhaust is just enough to keep the engine from cold starting. Typically caused by dirty plugs and less than perfect carb conditions. I'm betting it will start fine on a hose.

Not the best thing in the world for your impeller, but try starting it on the trailer for just a second before backing it in. Probably won't give you any troubles.
 

m_allison71

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Sounds like the water back pressure on the exhaust is just enough to keep the engine from cold starting. Typically caused by dirty plugs and less than perfect carb conditions. I'm betting it will start fine on a hose.

Not the best thing in the world for your impeller, but try starting it on the trailer for just a second before backing it in. Probably won't give you any troubles.
Just dropped mine off at the shop for the same problem. Changed plugs and it didn't help. When I could get it to start, it would die as soon as I put it in gear. What next?
 

Urban_Hunter

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Just dropped mine off at the shop for the same problem. Changed plugs and it didn't help. When I could get it to start, it would die as soon as I put it in gear. What next?
The "correct" answer is to check for sufficient fuel flow out of the pump and then to rebuild and adjust the carbs. If everything else is working great and it just doesn't want to idle and/or stalls in gear, you can adjust the idle speed screw to give it more rpm's at idle… then it should take the load from the prop engaging without stalling.

Fuel is so bad now, I can't even explain it. I ONLY run ethanol free fuel in everything that's not fuel injected, and I had a Honda 250 that has a 2 year old carb on it that wouldn't start this spring. Pulled the carb and it looked like it had been sitting in a barn for 30 years. Varnish you could scoop with a spoon out of that thing. I use Berryman's carb soak. It is a miracle worker, but it will destroy seals and gaskets so make sure you remove them if you go this route.
 

Urban_Hunter

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^^^^ I'll add, idling is a slippery slope with these things. Lower RPM = Lower vacuum and lower fuel pressure. So if it isn't idling at the correct RPM because a jet is 3-5% clogged, then that results in even lower vacuum and fuel pressure (vacuum being more important). That results in even less rpm because it isn't getting the fuel it needs… which leads to even LESS vacuum…. You get it.
 

m_allison71

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^^^^ I'll add, idling is a slippery slope with these things. Lower RPM = Lower vacuum and lower fuel pressure. So if it isn't idling at the correct RPM because a jet is 3-5% clogged, then that results in even lower vacuum and fuel pressure (vacuum being more important). That results in even less rpm because it isn't getting the fuel it needs… which leads to even LESS vacuum…. You get it.
Makes sense. I only use non ethanol. It idles right around 900 rpm's. It's getting fuel. It was starting to flood before everything else started.
 

Doecrusher

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I'd check spark then fuel. If a cylinder isn't firing it'll stall going in gear. Curious if they used the op tank when they did the cold starts. Definitely make sure all battery cables and connections are clean and shiny.
 

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