Not to be a Slick Trick history snob lol but I think the Magnum was the original sized cut. They came out with the smaller Standard sized cut to maximize penetration on large game and renamed the original "Magnum". Great broadheads no doubt.
Let's talk broad heads...
- Thread starter CrossVolle
- Start date
Not to be a Slick Trick history snob lol but I think the Magnum was the original sized cut. They came out with the smaller Standard sized cut to maximize penetration on large game and renamed the original "Magnum". Great broadheads no doubt.
TheLBLman
Well-Known Member
You may very well be correct.
I was just thinking the smaller one came out first.
Back in the 80's when I was into archery bear hunting in Canada,
there was a very small head that had a good following among some
accomplished archery bear hunters.
That head was called the "Razorbak 5".
What was unique about it was that it had 5 blades,
but was a very small diameter head.
I'm thinking it was only 7/8" wide (but may have been an inch).
What the bear hunters liked was they got complete pass-thrus,
and a "hole", that didn't quickly seal over (something more likely to happen with a fat bear than a typical deer).
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TheLBLman
Well-Known Member
During this same 80's era, a well known and accomplished bowhunter named Pete Shipley (rep for PSE) favored a very small head for elk hunting. Why?
More forgiving, resulting in more consistent shot placement, and nearly always a complete pass-thru, resulting in both more bleeding and better blood trails.
I continue to believe the most important aspect of a broadhead is it's sharpness, how forgiving it is (flying consistently), and it's ability to completely pass thru whatever game you're shooting.
Passing completely thru is very important in terms of both increased bleeding and your ability to track and find the animal. A sharp, smaller "fixed blade" head is often more likely to accomplish this, at least more reliably and consistently.
IMO, the main reason we don't hear more about small fixed blades being effective is because manufacturers & marketers can make a lot more money on complicated "mechanical" broadheads.
They are not necessarily better.
More just the latest "rage".
More forgiving, resulting in more consistent shot placement, and nearly always a complete pass-thru, resulting in both more bleeding and better blood trails.
I continue to believe the most important aspect of a broadhead is it's sharpness, how forgiving it is (flying consistently), and it's ability to completely pass thru whatever game you're shooting.
Passing completely thru is very important in terms of both increased bleeding and your ability to track and find the animal. A sharp, smaller "fixed blade" head is often more likely to accomplish this, at least more reliably and consistently.
IMO, the main reason we don't hear more about small fixed blades being effective is because manufacturers & marketers can make a lot more money on complicated "mechanical" broadheads.
They are not necessarily better.
More just the latest "rage".
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musical hunter
Well-Known Member
G5 dead meats
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The Razorback 5 I believe was also the head where the broadhead spun on a shaft. That was also one of the reasons it also penetrated better. The arrow kept spinning after impact. I think I still have some somewhere.
TheLBLman
Well-Known Member
That is correct.
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The Razorback 5 was a real good broadhead, and they did spin on there shaft.
You bought replacement cartridge (plastic body with the blades molded into it)
unscrew the tip and replaced the cartridge.
They made a Razorback 4 also that was a little lighter.
I hade good luck with the wasp 3 blade heads as well.
I like the old bear heads without the bleeder blades (they would sometimes brake off in the meat)
so, I use them as a two blade for my trade bows.
I also like Zwickey heads.
I found that 145ish gr. to 175ish grain heads always work better for me. I like heavy aluminum arrows
but do shoot carbon and wood.
You bought replacement cartridge (plastic body with the blades molded into it)
unscrew the tip and replaced the cartridge.
They made a Razorback 4 also that was a little lighter.
I hade good luck with the wasp 3 blade heads as well.
I like the old bear heads without the bleeder blades (they would sometimes brake off in the meat)
so, I use them as a two blade for my trade bows.
I also like Zwickey heads.
I found that 145ish gr. to 175ish grain heads always work better for me. I like heavy aluminum arrows
but do shoot carbon and wood.
midtndeerhunter
Well-Known Member
Switched to G5 mega meats this year. Have shot 2 so far and if performance stays the same will be my new board head of choice.
Magnus stingers tomorrow, which is my 1st hunt
I killed 19 deer with Magnus Serrazors last year. So far, 5 this year.
For the past 39 years Ive used about every Broadhead known to man.
I've kept detailed records on every kill (now 313 whitetails) including such things as distance of shot, distance to recovery, affected organs, wait times before taking up blood trail, and of course, all kill tag numbers.
What I've learned, A WHOLE BUNCH!
But I choose to shoot MAGNUS because it is a great head. Flies really well, is very sharp, and has a lifetime replacement warranty. FREE!!!
The Black Hornets (Serrazors or standard) are a tad wider than the Stingers. And therefore let out a better blood trail IMO.
I like Mechanicals for gut shot deer but who begins a hunt planning to gut shoot deer?
My friends and I have all used the top brand mechanicals and one thing is for certain,
Mechanicals can and often do divert on hitting any type of bone. Not always but enough to cause concern. I choose not to shoot them for this reason.
Don't get me wrong, fixed blade will also divert but definitely not as often OR as much.
My advice is to shoot the widest, sharpest, and most accurate fixed blade you can afford.
For the past 39 years Ive used about every Broadhead known to man.
I've kept detailed records on every kill (now 313 whitetails) including such things as distance of shot, distance to recovery, affected organs, wait times before taking up blood trail, and of course, all kill tag numbers.
What I've learned, A WHOLE BUNCH!
But I choose to shoot MAGNUS because it is a great head. Flies really well, is very sharp, and has a lifetime replacement warranty. FREE!!!
The Black Hornets (Serrazors or standard) are a tad wider than the Stingers. And therefore let out a better blood trail IMO.
I like Mechanicals for gut shot deer but who begins a hunt planning to gut shoot deer?
My friends and I have all used the top brand mechanicals and one thing is for certain,
Mechanicals can and often do divert on hitting any type of bone. Not always but enough to cause concern. I choose not to shoot them for this reason.
Don't get me wrong, fixed blade will also divert but definitely not as often OR as much.
My advice is to shoot the widest, sharpest, and most accurate fixed blade you can afford.
When I first started bow hunting we used Wasp's. At one time they came out with a six blade head! I think I still have one laying around somewhere,
TheLBLman
Well-Known Member
My advice is to place the higher priority in this order:
1. Accuracy
2. Sharpness
3. Widest (that will shoot accurately).
4. Reliability upon impact.
Most mechanicals do well on the accuracy, sharpness, and wide.
But for me, most just aren't reliable enough upon impact.
My "go-to" head has become the "standard" 4-blade Slick Trick fixed.
Curious as to what the 102 man thinks about the Slick Tricks?
Slick Tricks are EXCELLENT heads.
But for me its a math problem.
For example, last season. 19 kills, 7 hits/cuts/misses. 26 total shots.
average 12 dollars per shot (and 12.00 would be CHEAP)
19 x 12 = $228.
YEAR AFTER YEAR! It adds up.
And for the purpose of my study, I need LOTS of data (dead deer) to better understand how to kill deer.
How they bleed.
What shot angles affect what organs, outcomes, reactions, wait times, blood trails, meat spoilage, tracking techniques, blood clotting, and on and on.
Not to mention accuracy, arrow flex, ideal arrow weight vs trajectory, vs deer reaction to bow noise.
And on and on....
But if I were a one two or maybe even three shots per year Slick trick would be on my short list.
However, Magnus has a really great product. In my circle of friends there are MANY very experienced (translate OLD) hunters. We've used lots of different heads. LOTS!.
And Magnus really has done well. AND IT'S FREE!
The Company replaces your heads for free after you shoot them. I've spoke to the owner several times and the warranty is their "gimmick" to sell product..
Honestly you don't need to send them back in many cases because they touch up easily after a pass through. They are quality heads. But if they get too dull to bend/break they are replaced FREE!
WHO DOES THAT?
I've been using them for many years!
But for me its a math problem.
For example, last season. 19 kills, 7 hits/cuts/misses. 26 total shots.
average 12 dollars per shot (and 12.00 would be CHEAP)
19 x 12 = $228.
YEAR AFTER YEAR! It adds up.
And for the purpose of my study, I need LOTS of data (dead deer) to better understand how to kill deer.
How they bleed.
What shot angles affect what organs, outcomes, reactions, wait times, blood trails, meat spoilage, tracking techniques, blood clotting, and on and on.
Not to mention accuracy, arrow flex, ideal arrow weight vs trajectory, vs deer reaction to bow noise.
And on and on....
But if I were a one two or maybe even three shots per year Slick trick would be on my short list.
However, Magnus has a really great product. In my circle of friends there are MANY very experienced (translate OLD) hunters. We've used lots of different heads. LOTS!.
And Magnus really has done well. AND IT'S FREE!
The Company replaces your heads for free after you shoot them. I've spoke to the owner several times and the warranty is their "gimmick" to sell product..
Honestly you don't need to send them back in many cases because they touch up easily after a pass through. They are quality heads. But if they get too dull to bend/break they are replaced FREE!
WHO DOES THAT?
I've been using them for many years!
musical hunter
Well-Known Member
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They are still out there if you want some.
TheLBLman
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your thoughts!
So now, in your opinion, what would normally be the exact best "spots" to hit a deer with an arrow?
I realize there may be many different answers depending on varying positioning angles, as well as the deer's state of activity (feeding vs. walking, etc.).
The BEST, quickest, cleanest, shortest blood trail, (almost always see or hear them fall) is without a doubt...the KIDNEY shot. SECONDS, like under 15, and they are dead!
But it is very impractical for any weapon.
It is simply too small a target.
I like the heart shot but I rarely have seen a deer do anything but run wildly away, and sometimes over two hundred yards, on heart shots. And a few ran straight up hill. And I mean a steep hill.
So...the best shot scenario is a mid double lung on a very relaxed (floppy eared) deer (alone), with no bleating ("meh") to stop (alert) it, involved, and some type of background noise, (wind, train, traffic, etc.). The bigger deer, the better! (I've noticed that the larger bodied deer I've killed tend to travel MUCH shorter distances on lethal hits than their smaller bodied counterparts).
Coupled with a shave sharp Broadhead and pass through, and you've got a recipe for a hop, skip, and a jump away deer that probably has no idea what just "bit" it, and often falls over right in front of you!
And while mechanicals work fine, one other downfall to them is several of the more popular heads make a loud noise as the blues open and smack back on the arrow inserts. This often startles deer unnecessarily causing longer blood trails from spooked deer.
Deer traveling with other deer often go further to keep up with spooked companions. And sometimes arrows stay in deer as they run off slapping trees and brush causing strange noises that causes accompanying deer to run further and faster and taking the wounded animal along.
A running deer can cover LOTS of ground in seconds!
But it is very impractical for any weapon.
It is simply too small a target.
I like the heart shot but I rarely have seen a deer do anything but run wildly away, and sometimes over two hundred yards, on heart shots. And a few ran straight up hill. And I mean a steep hill.
So...the best shot scenario is a mid double lung on a very relaxed (floppy eared) deer (alone), with no bleating ("meh") to stop (alert) it, involved, and some type of background noise, (wind, train, traffic, etc.). The bigger deer, the better! (I've noticed that the larger bodied deer I've killed tend to travel MUCH shorter distances on lethal hits than their smaller bodied counterparts).
Coupled with a shave sharp Broadhead and pass through, and you've got a recipe for a hop, skip, and a jump away deer that probably has no idea what just "bit" it, and often falls over right in front of you!
And while mechanicals work fine, one other downfall to them is several of the more popular heads make a loud noise as the blues open and smack back on the arrow inserts. This often startles deer unnecessarily causing longer blood trails from spooked deer.
Deer traveling with other deer often go further to keep up with spooked companions. And sometimes arrows stay in deer as they run off slapping trees and brush causing strange noises that causes accompanying deer to run further and faster and taking the wounded animal along.
A running deer can cover LOTS of ground in seconds!
Interesting question you asked me.
But the better one is...
What about the marginal hits?
One lung/liver.
Intestine.
Stomach.
Anyone can successfully recover the double lung, lung/heart, kidney, femoral, pyloric, etc...
But the marginal hits?
These are the tough ones!
But the better one is...
What about the marginal hits?
One lung/liver.
Intestine.
Stomach.
Anyone can successfully recover the double lung, lung/heart, kidney, femoral, pyloric, etc...
But the marginal hits?
These are the tough ones!
