Boat motor peeps?

RUGER

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There is a pretty comical story behind this actually.
My son does NOT think it's funny, but I do.
Anyway,,,,,

The blue circled hole is NOT the drain for the lower unit. 🤣

My question is, what is it for?
There were no liquids in it when it was removed.

drain.jpg
 

6.5swede

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It's the vent hole, remove yellow then blue and it will drain. Pump fluid In bottom until it runs out of top, then screw in top then bottom. Now it's full, the vacuum won't let fluid out the bottom so you can put the screw back in.
 

woodyard

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Look at what is stamped on housing by red circle. The second word says level. Can't make out the first. That may be the vent screw instead of the lower. You have a bearing on the vertical drive shaft that has to be in oil. I would think it would be above that blue circled screw.
 

Pilchard

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You need a new zinc.

The screw in question is a vent like mentioned above. Here are detailed instructions if you need them:


Click on "Change it Out" link.

Edited to add: I forgot to mention that the drain screw is magnetic so it will quickly tell you if you have issues. Inspect it when it's removed to see if metal shavings are stuck to it. Probably too late this time around but very important. Also, when changing your gear lube, remove the prop and look for braid around the seal. It's a lower unit killer.
 
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RUGER

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You need a new zinc.
Yeah my son was putting the boat in the water one morning when it was real cold.
His then girlfriend was sitting in the operator's position as he started down and he hit the brakes for some reason and the frozen boat broke free from the bunks and slid off, landing short of the water. :eek:
Luckily that is all the damage there was.
He had to winch the boat back up on the trailer from it resting at a 45 degree angle. LOL

I told him that's why I never remove my winch until the rear of the boat is in the water. 🤣
 

TRIGGER

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Remove yellow then blue, let it drain then connect hose to yellow with a Yamaha screw in fitting then pump until it comes out of the blue with no air bubbles then put the plug back in the blue then remove the pump from yellow and insert the plug.
 

Pilchard

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Yeah my son was putting the boat in the water one morning when it was real cold.
His then girlfriend was sitting in the operator's position as he started down and he hit the brakes for some reason and the frozen boat broke free from the bunks and slid off, landing short of the water. :eek:
Luckily that is all the damage there was.
He had to winch the boat back up on the trailer from it resting at a 45 degree angle. LOL

I told him that's why I never remove my winch until the rear of the boat is in the water. 🤣
Yikes! But I was talking about the zinc, not the bent skeg. One of these that's made for your motor.

Amazon product ASIN B08NLQNY2S
 

Spurhunter

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Yikes! But I was talking about the zinc, not the bent skeg. One of these that's made for your motor.

Amazon product ASIN B08NLQNY2S
Never heard that called a zinc. Just a trim tab. They aren't always necessary. If your boat doesn't pull to one side while running with it off you can leave it off. Lots of go fast bass boat guys take them off because they rob a little speed. I'm going to take mine off my VMAX 175 in the spring and see if I gain anything.
 

Pilchard

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Never heard that called a zinc. Just a trim tab. They aren't always necessary. If your boat doesn't pull to one side while running with it off you can leave it off. Lots of go fast bass boat guys take them off because they rob a little speed. I'm going to take mine off my VMAX 175 in the spring and see if I gain anything.

These are sacrificial anodes meant to protect metallic parts from corrosion caused by electrolysis. They are most important in saltwater as they catch corrosion that would otherwise cause serious problems.

In fact they are made of different materials depending on salt vs fresh. Zinc vs magnesium perhaps?

I'd argue that if that part of your lower unit is in the water while your on plane, you aren't running your boat for top speed due to it being improperly trimmed/jacked. They definitely do not impact speed.

On big boats you may have dozens of these anodes. On a small outboard, usually just one or two. They have nothing to do with steering or boat control. Only designed in that shape to eliminate drag at low speeds.
 

Spurhunter

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These are sacrificial anodes meant to protect metallic parts from corrosion caused by electrolysis. They are most important in saltwater as they catch corrosion that would otherwise cause serious problems.

In fact they are made of different materials depending on salt vs fresh. Zinc vs magnesium perhaps?
I have zero experience with saltwater so I did not know this.
 
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hillbillyfab

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These are sacrificial anodes meant to protect metallic parts from corrosion caused by electrolysis. They are most important in saltwater as they catch corrosion that would otherwise cause serious problems.

In fact they are made of different materials depending on salt vs fresh. Zinc vs magnesium perhaps?

I'd argue that if that part of your lower unit is in the water while your on plane, you aren't running your boat for top speed due to it being improperly trimmed/jacked. They definitely do not impact speed.

On big boats you may have dozens of these anodes. On a small outboard, usually just one or two. They have nothing to do with steering or boat control. Only designed in that shape to eliminate drag at low speeds.
I've always called those "trim tabs". I knew they were anodes also. I pulled my manual just to verify, because I though it talked about adjusting it to help with veering/steering issues.
 

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Spurhunter

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I'd argue that if that part of your lower unit is in the water while your on plane, you aren't running your boat for top speed due to it being improperly trimmed/jacked. They definitely do not impact speed.
Incorrect. If my trim tab is out of the water my motor is over trimmed. And everything impacts speed. Some guys lightly sand the running pad of their hull so it doesn't "stick" to the water.
 

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