Beech Trees... hinge cut or kill?

BlountArrow

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For those of you that manage your own land, I have areas that need to be cleared of some smaller beech trees and I'm looking for opinions.

As a rule of thumb, would you hinge cut smaller beech trees or just cut them and kill them with a herbicide? I know this post is void of a lot of details about my specific situation. I'm mainly looking to open up the forest floor for other natural, more beneficial browse.
 

DoubleRidge

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Last year we completed a timber stand improvement project on our place and all the large beech trees were cut for timber then on the smaller beech the hack-n-squirt application was used.....same application was used on ironwood, gum, etc.....depending on how many acres you have would determine if you want to do it yourself or contract it out.....good news is there are NRCS cost share programs out there for timber stand improvement....in some cases grant money is available to cover the majority of the cost.....allot of information online.....good luck on your project..... habitat management is very rewarding.
 

JCDEERMAN

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You'll get a variety of answers to this, as it depends on your goals. There are many areas that need a good beech thinning. I will be doing that in the upcoming months on our place. You can do one of the two methods you mentioned. Just remember, if you hinge-cut, the tree will still be alive and in a few years, there will be stump shoots and also the limbs in the part of the tree you fell over will shoot up towards the sunlight. In a nutshell, hinge-cutting gives more short-term benefits, but causes problems down the road. If your goals are more geared toward the long term, I would totally terminate the tree. Either using your other method mentioned, or the hack-&-squirt method. Hack-&-squirt is what I will do in the short months ahead. Just hack the tree with a hatchet and spray your herbicide in the cut you made. The below is a great video I highly recommend discussing the two:

He starts talking about it at the 2:45. Also he talks about hinge-cutting at the 10:00 mark. Not sure why the video title says what it says, but the link is correct
 
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BlountArrow

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Personally, I kill them. Hate how beeches keep their leaves throughout the hunting season and block the view. I still keep some really big, mature beeches for beechnut production, but all the little ones that pop up once sunlight gets under the canopy... Bye bye
Thank you very much! I've been gone a while from here and last time I was here you were gone. For what it's worth, I'm glad you're back!!! I purchased a couple of the books you co-authored or recommended in the past and I love the education. Thanks again and Merry Christmas.
 

BlountArrow

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You'll get a variety of answers to this, as it depends on your goals. There are many areas that need a good beech thinning. I will be doing that in the upcoming months on our place. You can do one of the two methods you mentioned. Just remember, if you hinge-cut, the tree will still be alive and in a few years, there will be stump shoots and also the limbs in the part of the tree you fell over will shoot up towards the sunlight. In a nutshell, hinge-cutting gives more short-term benefits, but causes problems down the road. If your goals are more geared toward the long term, I would totally terminate the tree. Either using your other method mentioned, or the hack-&-squirt method. Hack-&-squirt is what I will do in the short months ahead. Just hack the tree with a hatchet and spray your herbicide in the cut you made. The below is a great video I highly recommend discussing the two:

He starts talking about it at the 2:45. Also he talks about hinge-cutting at the 10:00 mark. Not sure why the video title says what it says, but the link is correct
Fantastic! Thanks for sharing the video. After thinking about what you and BSK said and looking at evaluating my terrain further I think I'm going to kill them. Thanks again!
 

BlountArrow

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Last year we completed a timber stand improvement project on our place and all the large beech trees were cut for timber then on the smaller beech the hack-n-squirt application was used.....same application was used on ironwood, gum, etc.....depending on how many acres you have would determine if you want to do it yourself or contract it out.....good news is there are NRCS cost share programs out there for timber stand improvement....in some cases grant money is available to cover the majority of the cost.....allot of information online.....good luck on your project..... habitat management is very rewarding.
Thanks, man. Yeah, sadly, I think I am getting dangerously close to enjoying habitat mgt more than hunting (dare I admit that haha).
 

DoubleRidge

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Thanks, man. Yeah, sadly, I think I am getting dangerously close to enjoying habitat mgt more than hunting (dare I admit that haha).

Oh I get it....Habitat management is a year around hobby....always something to do or improvements to make... Having more opportunities to take deer is just a bonus.....very rewarding to see all types of wildlife benefit from your labor.
 

Boll Weevil

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Hardeman
Personally, I kill them. Hate how beeches keep their leaves throughout the hunting season and block the view. I still keep some really big, mature beeches for beechnut production, but all the little ones that pop up once sunlight gets under the canopy... Bye bye
This.
 

TheLBLman

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Knoxville-Dover-Union City, TN
Personally, I kill them. Hate how beeches keep their leaves throughout the hunting season and block the view. I still keep some really big, mature beeches for beechnut production, but all the little ones that pop up once sunlight gets under the canopy... Bye bye
Ha! Personally, I have more a "love" than a "hate" relationship with the beech trees!

My perspective here is coming more from a "hunter" than from a "hunter-manager's" perspective.

Let me explain.

Over many years of deer hunting, I often observed zero deer movement on so many those "perfect" seeming mornings. You know, those cold, clear, frosty mornings when you could hear a pin drop?

But, there was one thing about deer movement I started correlating, and it was with wind, and small beech trees. Have you ever noticed that sometimes, typically around mid-morning, the wind begins picking up a tad, and some rattling leaves sound very much like walking deer? The sound I'm referring to has most often been beech tree leaves!

It's uncanny, just how often older deer, particularly fully mature bucks, will take off on a journey across rather open hardwoods, often within seconds of those beech tree leaves starting their "deer-walk-rattle". I'm typically talking about a timeframe between 10:00 a.m. and 12:00 Noon, when most hunters have already given up on their morning hunt.

About half of the fully mature bucks I've killed have been between 10:00 a.m. and 12:00 Noon, and I give much credit for the "deer-walk-rattle" of beech tree leaves contributing to that particular deer movement.

As a hunter-manager, my strategy with the young beech trees is to leave many, strategically, where they help camouflage me on stand, AND, stimulate mid-morning to mid-day deer movement.

Some have asked me what's my "secret", as though I really have much beyond persistence and stubbornness. I've told many what I believe is the very best deer call, particularly on the type morning described above, and nearly always employ this call mid-morning, then stay on stand a minimum of another 30 minutes after "calling". But the next best thing may be the "deer-walk-rattle" of beech leaves, something you can often create simply by not cutting them all down.

Much, perhaps most, my mature buck hunting is hunting saddles on high ridges, often in hardwoods. (Gee, I just described most of LBL and most of BSK's ridge & hollow hunting lands.)
This is the type environment where rattling beech leaves are most likely to help you connect with an older deer, not just mature bucks, but mature does as well.

It's my belief that older deer use sound as a way of camouflaging their movements. On many those cold frosty mornings, deer seem very aware of their vulnerabilities, and often remain bedded (or simply move only very short distances). But once the wind picks up, just enough to rattle those beech leaves, that's when older deer often rise from their beds and take a long hike through the hardwoods, often traveling a considerable distance. After all, most hunters have now left the woods.
 

woodsman04

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Feb 4, 2018
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Alabama
I like them and hate them. I like them for the beech nuts, but I think they only produce every three or four years. So that isn't reliable enough to really keep many around, could be just a bonus food every few years. I like them because they can be good to hunt in or next to because of cover. I also think they are a pretty tree, especially the really big hollowed out ones.

I hate them because they can take over. They block your view. They close the canopy and don't allow anything else to grow.

But since I'm a turkey guy, I hate them the most because they provide places for coons to live.
 

DoubleRidge

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What is latest date that you can hack and squirt in southern middle TN?

Comment below taken from NDA article:

When is Hack-and-Squirt most effective:

"When you have that heavy sap flow and sap rise, it can wash the herbicide right out of the cut. Otherwise, late winter, summer and fall are fine".

Our hack-n-squirt project was completed in the summer months a little over one year ago and the effects can clearly be seen today.....spent some time yesterday clearing one of our logging roads where a few smaller trees that were hacked blew over in the high wind..no complaints...part of it.
 

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Ballerski

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knoxville, tn
What is latest date that you can hack and squirt in southern middle TN?
My most effective H&S is in the winter before green up, did some H&S yesterday. As stated above, don't want to do it in spring or as leafing out. I have done it in summer and early fall, but not nearly as successful as late winter for me. I usually use Tordon Ready to Use from Rural King or TS.
 

JCDEERMAN

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The project we did late last summer accomplished nothing - it was a complete failure :rolleyes:. I don't think we killed a tree and there was sap flowing out of the tree a week later. This was in late August. I plan on starting over in those areas again in the next couple weeks
 

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