1999 Honda Fourtrax 2x4

megalomaniac

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Well, my steering bushing finally rotted out, time to replace, easy enough. But as an incidental, my front brakes quit working a few months ago, finally got time today to tear the front end apart to figure out what is wrong. I bought this bike here on TNdeer from a member 8 or 9 years ago without front or rear brakes, completely rebuilt both back then, both have worked perfectly until recently. After the teardown, both front wheel cylinders are completely seized. This bike has not been in ANY water since I rebuilt the brakes ( I use it mostly for lawn sweeping, aerating, and pulling a wagon on my property... I have other bikes for hunting).

I know most could care less about brakes on a honda 300... but I like them, and kids ride it... SO.. the question is... try to rebuild the wheel cylinders with a kit (at cursory glance, I can't get the pistons out... may be able to with some heat, etc.), spend $100 on a set of chinese cheapo wheel cylinders, spend $200 on a set of honda OEM wheel cylinders, or just screw the front drums and switch to disc brakes?

Keep in mind, this bike won't be getting in water, so my natural inclination is to go with the chinese wheel cylinders for $100.... that being said, I rebuilt the wheel cylinders almost a decade ago, and they've seized up again. I suspect due to our insane humidity here in south MS getting a bit of moisture in the brake fluid. If I replace the master cylinders, I'm definetly going to flush and bleed the brakes every 4 or 5 years from now on....

Don't want to order a wheel cylinder rebuild kit on the cheap and find out the sleeve is pitted.

What say you guys??? TNRifleman? I know you are the expert on these bikes :)
 

gtk

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Convert to disc if you are going to keep it.

I have 1996 TRX300 4x4, kept in MS while i lived in CO. Got in MS last week and noticed the steering column bushing was gone on mine too, and the front brakes don't work .. I rebuilt the back brakes several years ago, went thru the rear end, and put all new seals in.

Hurry up and fix yours, and let me know where you got the parts and how hard of a job its going to be. :)
 

megalomaniac

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I already did the front and rear brakes when I bought the bike several years ago. Rear brake was a PITA due to longstanding water in rear drum... had to use an oxyacetelene torch to cut the backing plate off the axle and replace it. It was THAT corroded to the axle. I went ahead and replaced all rear seals while I had the rear end apart.

Front brakes are easy... im just not keen on spending $100 on Chinese parts, knowing they are likely to fail in another decade or so. Again, thinking if I flush the lines every 3 or 4 years it may save the wheel cylinders, however.

Looks like around $250 to switch to disc brakes... hands down that would be the way to go if I were to take this bike in water. But it is kept garaged and used 99% of the time as a yard tool. Which is why I actually wanted a 2x4... more maneuverable. Not sure I can justify spending that much (I bought the bike for $800, spent another $300 rebuilding front and rear brakes, new master cylinder, new seals back when). Of course parts were a LOT cheaper back then...
Interestingly, my 2000 4x4 Fourtrax has never had to have anything done to front or rear brakes... but its in TN and humidity is much lower on average there than south MS.
 

Wade195

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I hear you on the moisture.

With that said the moisture usual come from the brake fluid.

Brake fluid is notorious for absorbing moisture.

Its a good practice To change regularly with new fluid and make sure the seals on master Cylinder is sealed as well.

Just a thought
 

megalomaniac

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I hear you on the moisture.

With that said the moisture usual come from the brake fluid.

Brake fluid is notorious for absorbing moisture.

Its a good practice To change regularly with new fluid and make sure the seals on master Cylinder is sealed as well.

Just a thought
Exactly what I'm thinking caused the problem... brake fluid is so hygroscopic, and our air is so humid here in the summer, moisture got in the brake fluid...

When I use my air compressor in the summer, I have to remember to open the drain valve at the bottom to drain the tank... there is always a little water from condensation that comes out.

While thoroughly cleaning all the parts for the rebuild this morn, I noticed a bit of a gritty feeling in one of the wheel bearings. Just going to go ahead and replace them while I have the drums off the bike.
 

Wade195

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Exactly what I'm thinking caused the problem... brake fluid is so hygroscopic, and our air is so humid here in the summer, moisture got in the brake fluid...

When I use my air compressor in the summer, I have to remember to open the drain valve at the bottom to drain the tank... there is always a little water from condensation that comes out.

While thoroughly cleaning all the parts for the rebuild this morn, I noticed a bit of a gritty feeling in one of the wheel bearings. Just going to go ahead and replace them while I have the drums off the bike.

Great Explanation
 

Andy S.

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Atoka, TN
All Honda 300s and some 400s I have converted to disc have required 12" rims/tires for clearance. Something to consider, likely an added cost. My '96 300 4x4 that I keep at the house and do not ride in water still has stock brakes on it, and they perform fine. The ticket is no mud/water. No disc upgrade yet because I am trying to keep it bone stock as long as possible. 25 years and 2600 miles and still going strong.

744C8687-16CF-46C3-865D-8DB5C7488B0A.jpeg
 
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JCDEERMAN

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All Honda 300s and some 400s I have converted to disc have required 12" rims/tires for clearance. Something to consider, likely an added cost. My '96 300 4x4 that I keep at the house and do not ride in water still has stock brakes on it, and they perform fine. The ticket is no mud/water. No disc upgrade yet because I am trying to keep it bone stock as long as possible. 25 years and 2400 miles and still going strong.

View attachment 117238
Man, that is a great looking bike!!!
 

Wade195

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All Honda 300s and some 400s I have converted to disc have required 12" rims/tires for clearance. Something to consider, likely an added cost. My '96 300 4x4 that I keep at the house and do not ride in water still has stock brakes on it, and they perform fine. The ticket is no mud/water. No disc upgrade yet because I am trying to keep it bone stock as long as possible. 25 years and 2600 miles and still going strong.

View attachment 117238
Great looking ride.

I hope I can find another some day.
 

megalomaniac

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Fine bike Andy!

Ones bone stock and in great shape bring $6000 now.

Impossible to find them in south MS... everybody puts lift kits, snorkels, and rides them underwater locally.
 

Snake

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McMinn Co.Tennessee U.S.
All Honda 300s and some 400s I have converted to disc have required 12" rims/tires for clearance. Something to consider, likely an added cost. My '96 300 4x4 that I keep at the house and do not ride in water still has stock brakes on it, and they perform fine. The ticket is no mud/water. No disc upgrade yet because I am trying to keep it bone stock as long as possible. 25 years and 2600 miles and still going strong.

View attachment 117238
Great looking wheeler Any for the year.
 

Gravey

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Christiana (Rutherford County)
All Honda 300s and some 400s I have converted to disc have required 12" rims/tires for clearance. Something to consider, likely an added cost. My '96 300 4x4 that I keep at the house and do not ride in water still has stock brakes on it, and they perform fine. The ticket is no mud/water. No disc upgrade yet because I am trying to keep it bone stock as long as possible. 25 years and 2600 miles and still going strong.

View attachment 117238
That's the twin to mine. She's a 99 and only ever used for hunting and around the house. Only difference is I put a basket on the front rack last year.
 

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megalomaniac

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All parts except bearings came in today. The $8 steering bushing from Amazon snapped in two while trying to spread it to fit over the steering column. No big deal, made installing it even easier. Works fine, 15 minute job.

Got the new slave cylinders installed (I opted for the $100 per pair Chinese knockoffs) new brake pads installed ($18 for 2 pairs). Bought fresh brake fluid ($9) and filled and bled the brakes. I installed the drums to adjust the brakes, then pulled the drums back off.

Just waiting on the wheel bearing set to arrive, then I will have a friend with a press install them, the remount the drums and wheels.

Pretty easy job for a fellow only moderately mechanically inclined. Was helpful to watch YouTube videos on installing the steering bushing (lube it with axle grease!), and how to bleed the brakes (crazy easy once you see it once)
 

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PossumSlayer

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All Honda 300s and some 400s I have converted to disc have required 12" rims/tires for clearance. Something to consider, likely an added cost. My '96 300 4x4 that I keep at the house and do not ride in water still has stock brakes on it, and they perform fine. The ticket is no mud/water. No disc upgrade yet because I am trying to keep it bone stock as long as possible. 25 years and 2600 miles and still going strong.

View attachment 117238
This man ever sells anything , it will be in great shape!
 

megalomaniac

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Got it all put back together. Bearings were a fiasco. Amazon sent me a set for the REAR even tho my order parts were for front. Ordered replacements from a place in Memphis. It took 8 days to travel 300 miles USPS :(.

Brakes are a little soft, I will need to bleed them again when I get a chance, hopefully I don't have a leak somewhere in the lines.
 

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