#844379 - 07/29/08 10:22 PM
Paper Tuning
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Crappie Luck
Non-Typical
Registered: 01/29/03
Posts: 56001
Loc: Smith Co.
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Have ya'll found it's better to paper tune with or without feathers?
I don't think I've tried it without feathers but it seems that would be better at >10 yrds. and tell a little more.
I'm fletching now and I think I'll leave one black for tuning
Am I screwing up for some reason?
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Compromise is surrender on an installment plan
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#844439 - 07/30/08 12:28 AM
Re: Paper Tuning
[Re: Crappie Luck]
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rhood
Spike
Registered: 08/18/07
Posts: 24
Loc: east tn
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it depends on what kind of setup you have, if you are just tuning your hunting bow then i would skip the bare shaft tuning, thats more for target archers. paper tune with fletching on is fine for a hunting setup. Of course if you wanna try it just remember when you add the weight of the fletching you will get a little lower nock tear compared to shooting the bare shaft.
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Large Marge sent me.
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#844547 - 07/30/08 06:09 AM
Re: Paper Tuning
[Re: rhood]
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Radar
Non-Typical
Registered: 08/19/01
Posts: 30916
Loc: Kansas City, Mo.
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I paper tune for my initial setup on my bow (with feathers) , then go to walk back and broadhead tuning to dial it in .
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#844735 - 07/30/08 07:45 AM
Re: Paper Tuning
[Re: Radar]
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tndrbstr
16 Point
Registered: 10/06/05
Posts: 12157
Loc: knox co tn
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I just use an arrow with the fletchings on it. I shoot thru the paper at around 6 to 10 feet tho.
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#844838 - 07/30/08 08:21 AM
Re: Paper Tuning
[Re: tndrbstr]
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BowGuy84
10 Point
Registered: 09/16/07
Posts: 4847
Loc: Nashville, TN and Louisville, ...
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walk back tunning is all I really do. Paper just gets too nit picky and it is still hard to see what is actually happening.
All arrows oscilate coming out of a bow, you just want them to correct as soon as possible. I dont want to adjust for my arrow to be straight at a few feet when what i really care about is if it flies like a dart out to 60 yds.
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#844999 - 07/30/08 10:04 AM
Re: Paper Tuning
[Re: Crappie Luck]
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tndrbstr
16 Point
Registered: 10/06/05
Posts: 12157
Loc: knox co tn
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Crappie, as said any arrow is going to oscilate, that is just what they do. What I try to do is cut down on the directional kick of the rear of the arrow shaft that comes from the bow being out of tune. I want to be able to visualize that kick before the fletchings have time to start correcting the flight pattern. That is the reason I place the paper closer to the front of the bow face. The reason I use a paper is that it gives me a snapshot if you will, of the arrows positin at that point.
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#846007 - 07/30/08 08:33 PM
Re: Paper Tuning
[Re: Crappie Luck]
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1bow4me
4 Point
Registered: 07/29/08
Posts: 155
Loc: west Tn.
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Paper tuning can be a complex thing if you let it. I try to tune at about 5-6 feet then go 10 yards then to 20. If you get good tears at these ranges, the long distant flights are nailed. Also I shoot a switchback and Goldtip pro 55/75, had the same problem with th 75/95 lot. my bow is set at 68Lbs. When I went to the lighter arrow, the problem went away.. hope this helps.
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buckblaster
God, Family and Friends, you connot have to much of either
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#846489 - 07/31/08 07:40 AM
Re: Paper Tuning
[Re: 1bow4me]
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JCDEERMAN
14 Point
Registered: 07/19/08
Posts: 7635
Loc: NASHVILLE, TN
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I got my bow paper tuned a couple of weeks ago at the Dickson Sportsman Store. It is primarily a bow shop and they have some guys in there that know what they are talkin about. I was asking the main guy in there a few question about paper tuning. He said that you want to be about 3-4 yards away....which is relevant to 10 feet, which some of you all are saying. He also said that if the arrow is tilted slightly downward, that it is ok. You just dont want it tilted up, left, or right. And I would have my fletchings on. I always shoot with the EXACT same set-up as if I were hunting.
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Be nervous, but fear no one
In God we trust
God bless the USA!
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#851004 - 08/03/08 11:43 AM
Re: Paper Tuning
[Re: JCDEERMAN]
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TLRanger
8 Point
Registered: 10/10/02
Posts: 1041
Loc: Nashville
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This is the way I tune my bow:
I take a bare shaft with a field point of the weight of my broadheads (100gr), put a couple of wraps of tape around the shaft where the feathers are normally to mimic the weight of the feathers and shoot into a styrofoam (sp) tarket at the same level as my bow. I then adjust the rest or nocking point until all I can see after shooting is the nock of the arrow.
I start out at about ten feet. When the arrow is hitting directly into the target, I move back to twenty feet and fine tune a bit more. I keep moving back about ten to fifteen feet until I am shooting at twenty yards.
The arrow should enter the target with the nock neither high, low, left or right.
Then I set my sights with a fletched arrow and field point. Then I switch to broadheads. I have never had any trouble with the field points and broadheads not hitting the same spot after tuning with the bare shaft. It's a lot of work but is worth the effort.
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Whitetail Lodge Hunting Club: Nelson Co. KY
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