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#3862939 - 12/05/14 10:15 AM Duck mount questions
RUGER Administrator
Bambi Killa
Non-Typical


Registered: 11/19/99
Posts: 4106600
Loc: TN

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Number one, how is the best way to put the duck in the freezer till we can get to the taxidermist?
I have heard wrap it in newspaper?

What is a reasonable cost for a mount?

Man said on the way this morning he would love to kill a green wing teal.

Annnnnndddd:

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#3862971 - 12/05/14 10:44 AM Re: Duck mount questions [Re: RUGER]
Cottontop
6 Point


Registered: 01/29/03
Posts: 678
Loc: Flat Rock, Alabama

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http://www.waterfowler.net/Artistic/gamecare.php
http://www.waterfowler.net/Artistic/pricing.php
http://www.waterfowler.net/Artistic/index.php

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#3862973 - 12/05/14 10:45 AM Re: Duck mount questions [Re: RUGER]
Bullfrog
6 Point


Registered: 10/14/08
Posts: 619
Loc: Ky Lake

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Zip lock bag, sealed air tight. You can wrap with wet paper towels(if it will be awhile before taking to taxi).

Edited by Bullfrog (12/05/14 10:46 AM)

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#3863015 - 12/05/14 11:17 AM Re: Duck mount questions [Re: Cottontop]
cbhunter
4 Point


Registered: 12/09/13
Posts: 304
Loc: huntingdon

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 Originally Posted By: Cottontop
WOW I am no duck hunter and have much appreciation for a quality mount but those prices seem terrifying on any of them mounts. not bashing, just never would have imagined it costing that kind of money for any of those mounts!

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#3863025 - 12/05/14 11:27 AM Re: Duck mount questions [Re: cbhunter]
scn
16 Point


Registered: 02/05/03
Posts: 10449
Loc: Brentwood, TN US

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Blot off any blood before freezing.

Wrap the bill in a paper towel, cotton ball to keep any blood from there contained.

Tuck the head back under a wing so it isn't "out" and breakable when frozen.

Freeze in an airtight bag, and don't wait too long to get it to a taxidermist.
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#3863037 - 12/05/14 11:40 AM Re: Duck mount questions [Re: scn]
DeerWhisperer
Spike


Registered: 07/27/11
Posts: 70
Loc: Hickman County, TN

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One of cheapest and easiest ways I have found to transport mountable birds from the field and to prevent damage is to buy a cheap pack of ladies thigh high panty hose. You can pick them up at the Dollar Store for a few bucks, usually 5-6 to a pack.

Once you clean the bird it the field, just tuck his head and slide into the panty hose. They fit like a glove, hold the feathers in place and prevent further damage if you still have hunting to do.

Once you get back home, freeze and store how you wish.

It works great for us, it does seem odd to see all the guys with boxes of panty hose in their shell bagss
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And I heard a voice saying to me, ‘Rise, Peter; kill and eat.’

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#3863049 - 12/05/14 11:55 AM Re: Duck mount questions [Re: DeerWhisperer]
thetoolman
8 Point


Registered: 08/23/05
Posts: 1520
Loc: Charlotte, Tennessee

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Green wing teal was my first bird, but he was too shot up to mount. When I got the wood duck last year the first thing I did was turn to a search to see what to do and this came from another forum (I packed my in saran wrap and pushed all the air out then wrapped in freezer paper):

Field Care of Birds for Taxidermy

Postby Mr. Taxidermist » Sun Oct 14, 2007 10:35 am

The question of how to care for birds that are going to be mounted is asked quite often, so, I have decided to post a thread (as a sticky) that can be used for future reference.

First of all, no matter how great a taxidermist is, the quality of a mount will first and foremost be determined by the quality of the bird and the manner in which it was handled before being taken to the taxidermist. That being said, when selecting a specimen for taxidermy, I advise people to select mature, late season birds with the least damage possible. Obviously, a kid's first bird, a dog's first/last retrieve, etc can't be chosen and you have to make the best of it. Late season, mature birds make the best mounts because they usually do not have pin feathers (which fall out during mounting) and have the best colors.

Now on to the field care...
When you shoot a bird that is a candidate for taxidermy, I generally recommend retrieving the bird yourself if possible instead of allowing a dog to retrieve it. However, I mount numerous birds that are retrieved by dogs each year. Some dogs will basically ruin a bird and some birds you can't tell they've been in a dog's mouth. If the bird is still alive, the best way to dispatch it that I have found is to open the bird's mouth and stick a small pocket knife through the roof of the mouth into the duck's brain. This causes instant death and I feel is much better than drowning or squeezing a bird as some other recommend. Just make sure that you don't get rough and stick the blade through the top of the head. DO NOT wring the bird's neck.

When carrying the bird, always try to carry it by the feet instead of by the neck. Don't use a game strap if possible. Basically, you want to handle the bird just like you would handle the mount.

When you get the bird back home or back to camp, rinse off any blood/dirt/etc with COLD water. Be gentle with the plumage as you rinse it. You will hear all kinds of advise about putting the bird in panty hose and stuff like that, but you really don't need to do that. At this point, all you need to do is to gently place the bird in a plastic garbage bag with the head folded against the body (not stuck straight out. With the bird at the bottom of the bag, roll the bird up in the bag so that the air is forced out the top. If you have a bird with a long tail (oldsquaw, pintails, etc) take care not to bend the tail. Place this inside another garbage bag, get the air out, and seal it up. Freeze the bird until you can get it to your taxidermist. Birds frozen this way should keep at least a year in the freezer if you have taken care to get the air out of the bags before freezing. If you plan to take the bird to your taxidermist the same day or the next day, you can bag them up and place them in the fridge. I would keep a bird in the fridge no longer than 48 hrs.





As for price, it can vary greatly, the one posted above seems really high. Mine was very reasonable, but he doesn't do many ducks and focuses more on deer. This guy is very reputable from many I know and fairly reasonable for the quality of work you get: http://www.duxrus.com/price_list.html

When I called around I got everything from $150 - $300.


Edited by thetoolman (12/05/14 12:54 PM)
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#3863066 - 12/05/14 12:11 PM Re: Duck mount questions [Re: thetoolman]
Grnwing
Button


Registered: 06/06/14
Posts: 10
Loc: West TN

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Go with Shane Smith at Artistic Compositions as posted by Cottontop. Shane has done several for me and extremely pleased with his work. It is pricy, but it is also something you will have for life. I have had other taxidermist do birds for me and by far Shane has produced the best quality work. As far as quality of bird. I prefer late season birds that have not lost a lot of feathers from being shot or retrieved by a dog. Also broken wings or legs can pose some challenges on mounting in certain positions. When I get a bird mounted I attached a photo of exactly how I want that bird positioned. Green wings, I have mounted are in a flying position, but a preening pose looks good as well.
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#3863081 - 12/05/14 12:27 PM Re: Duck mount questions [Re: Grnwing]
DaveB
10 Point


Registered: 09/03/08
Posts: 4764
Loc: Shelby County

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Maybe someone can chime in. Kid , I guess he is grown up now, down in Mississippi west of I-55, first name is Jody. He has an ad up in the MSSA clubhouse. Does very good work. Price used to be pretty reasonable.
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