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#3252966 - 05/22/13 04:52 PM Pillar Stock Bedding
BirdDog123
4 Point


Registered: 08/17/12
Posts: 384
Loc: Tennesssee, US

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I have just started learning about the process behind stock bedding. I still have A LOT of learning to do before I actually commit to the process and was wondering who on here might have some experience with it.

Right now, my biggest questions are about the pillars and also buffering the release agent.

So question 1) Are the pillars machined headless bolts that are used in place of the normal bolts while the bedding cures? I hope thats not confusing I just don't understand the purpose of the pillars or how to obtain them.

question 2) How do you know when you have a thin layer of release agent (aka kiwi shoe polish) on the action? I am afraid of buffering out too much and causing mechanical lock.. but I also don't want to put too much of it on.

Sorry, I know these may be dumb questions to a veteran.. but I am definitely a rookie in this area! Any help/advice is greatly appreciated.

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#3253085 - 05/22/13 08:15 PM Re: Pillar Stock Bedding [Re: BirdDog123]
DaveB
10 Point


Registered: 09/03/08
Posts: 3625
Loc: Shelby County

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Pillar bedding is when you use the pillars to establish a solid metal connection from the action to the trigger and from the action through the stock to the forearm hold down screw.

It is supposed to remove any stock flexing that can affect accuracy and, in general, is intended for wood stocks but with some of the non-wood stuff out there it sure couldn't hurt. Pillar bedding, at least from my perspective, is separate from bedding the action.

Bedding the action is something I don't feel I can do, and do it right. I think Mr. Big had a thread where his Savage lug (the part that fits into the slot in the stock)was beating the wood at an angle. And therein lies the problem. I could not tell if a given lug was cut square or if the stock was cut wrong. Or both. The objective of bedding is to stop the action from moving when you pull the trigger. The firearm will be more accurate if it is a solid, rather than shifting in the stock as the trigger is pulled. Get it wrong and corrrecting it is probably more work/money than a visit to Boyds for a replacement. Others here will have differing opinions. I have done it myself but I won't do it again, I'll pay a gunsmith.

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#3257208 - 05/29/13 01:47 PM Re: Pillar Stock Bedding [Re: DaveB]
Rubberduck270
10 Point


Registered: 11/01/10
Posts: 2704
Loc: Lawrence Co.

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A good bedding job can be done at home fairly easily. There are a ton of articles, tutorials and videos out there to help you with the process. This is probably the best article that I've come across regarding pillar bedding http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

Pillars are really just aluminum spacers that are there to keep the stock material from compressing overtime and to give a solid surface for the action to clamp to. Some people install the pillars then go back and bed the action. Either method works well for a hunting rifle.

As far as the shoe polish release agent goes, you'll feel better about it after put the shoe polish on the metal. You'll see that you can tell where the polish is and where it isn't.
_________________________
Smokeless Muzzleloading: It ain't your Grampa's flintlock

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#3257210 - 05/29/13 01:49 PM Re: Pillar Stock Bedding [Re: Rubberduck270]
Rubberduck270
10 Point


Registered: 11/01/10
Posts: 2704
Loc: Lawrence Co.

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And if you're still a little shy about a fully bedding the action, get your feet wet by bedding just the recoil lug area. It'll be a smaller and far less messy job that you'll still see positive benefits from. For a hunting rifle (IMO anyways) the recoil lug area is really the only area that needs to be bedded.
_________________________
Smokeless Muzzleloading: It ain't your Grampa's flintlock

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#3257341 - 05/29/13 04:27 PM Re: Pillar Stock Bedding [Re: BirdDog123]
Hunter 257W
10 Point


Registered: 10/04/12
Posts: 2903
Loc: Franklin County

Offline
 Originally Posted By: BirdDog123
I have just started learning about the process behind stock bedding. I still have A LOT of learning to do before I actually commit to the process and was wondering who on here might have some experience with it.

Right now, my biggest questions are about the pillars and also buffering the release agent.

So question 1) Are the pillars machined headless bolts that are used in place of the normal bolts while the bedding cures? I hope thats not confusing I just don't understand the purpose of the pillars or how to obtain them.

Yes, the pillars are a metal(aluminum or steel typically) clyinder. The pillars are bonded into the stock and become a permanent part of the stock after the bedding process. Each pillar has a hole drilled from end to end so that the pillar becomes the new screw hole for the stock screws. And their purpose is to add a non-compressible material under the stock screws so the screws don't loosen and clamping force can remain constant.

question 2) How do you know when you have a thin layer of release agent (aka kiwi shoe polish) on the action? I am afraid of buffering out too much and causing mechanical lock.. but I also don't want to put too much of it on.


I understand your nervousness about gluing a rifle to it's stock but you can see the release agent if you work under a good light. And the pucker factor will be high enough the 1st time you do one that you will use a good light! A "trick" I use to avoid locking the stock and action together mehanically is to put masking tape on the front, sides and bottom of the locking lug prior to bedding. This gives you full contact on the rear of the lug but enough clearance all around for assembly/disassembly. Be sure to put release agent on the tape too though.
Sorry, I know these may be dumb questions to a veteran.. but I am definitely a rookie in this area! Any help/advice is greatly appreciated.


It's really not as hard as some people try to make it. If you pay attention to detail and work slowy and methodically you can do it. It helps to have some sort of vice to hold the stock while you work. I typically use a standard iron vice with a couple of pine 1x4's for jaws and pad them with shop rags. That holds the stock so you can use both hands to dremel tool the excess wood away.

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#3260854 - 06/03/13 08:06 PM Re: Pillar Stock Bedding [Re: Hunter 257W]
Greg M
6 Point


Registered: 02/11/10
Posts: 819
Loc: Riverview, FL/ Bluff City, TN

Offline
Start out like this:



Epoxy the pillars into place with Devcon 10110:



You have now pillar bedded a rifle. If you want to bed the action, it's a little more involved. Using gray MarineTex, after you apply release agent to ALL surfaces and relieve the stock, it should look something like this:




After cleanup and curing, it should look something like this:

_________________________
MOA Custom Firearms, LLC
Riverview, FL
Firearms perfection improved

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#3262163 - 06/05/13 04:01 PM Re: Pillar Stock Bedding [Re: Hunter 257W]
DaveB
10 Point


Registered: 09/03/08
Posts: 3625
Loc: Shelby County

Offline
Hello Greg--
You recommend steel or aluminum pillars? Last time I looked aluminum was the primary material being offered.

Diameter of the pillars a big deal? Could you define what you do to keep the lug area square or do you let the lug define waht is square and the bedding material to correct for wear/tear?

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#3262196 - 06/05/13 04:34 PM Re: Pillar Stock Bedding [Re: DaveB]
Hunter 257W
10 Point


Registered: 10/04/12
Posts: 2903
Loc: Franklin County

Offline
I made my own pillars for a 98 Mauser project. I used a bolt - I think 1/2" diameter. Cut the head and threaded portion off in a lathe - squared up the ends and drilled it end-to-end. Then used a milling tool to cut a counterbore for the action screw head. I went 1 step further by putting valve lapping compound in the counterbore and spinning the action screw with a drill to mate the action screw to the piller counterbore. Now all that work and fancy talk was done mostly just to see how well I could do it myself. I could have bought the same pillar for probably $10 to $15. \:\)

When I did a Remington 700 I bought the pillar from Brownells as it is much more difficult to make a pillar for a round reciever.

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#3262718 - 06/06/13 10:33 AM Re: Pillar Stock Bedding [Re: Hunter 257W]
BirdDog123
4 Point


Registered: 08/17/12
Posts: 384
Loc: Tennesssee, US

Offline
Wow really great advice guys. I am still in the process but I got my pillars in the mail just a week ago. Gonna get some Devcon once I can save up enough $$$.

I can't lie.. I am still kind of nervous though! lol

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#3269979 - 06/17/13 09:31 PM Re: Pillar Stock Bedding [Re: BirdDog123]
Greg M
6 Point


Registered: 02/11/10
Posts: 819
Loc: Riverview, FL/ Bluff City, TN

Offline
Dave, I personally prefer aluminum. It has a little compression value over steel which gives more surface contact, IMO. Size is really not that important, (and yes, I keep telling my wife that). As for the recoil lug, that is a valid concern. I usually will remove a little of the bedding to widen the recoil lug channel for safety. I do that by adding extra layers of bedding tape. Remember that you aren't going to get lateral torque. The primary purpose of action bedding is solid vertical contact and minimal to no front to back movement. Birddog, Devcon is pretty cheap. A small tube is more than enough to do several pillar jobs. It runs about 6 or 7$ for a small tube.
_________________________
MOA Custom Firearms, LLC
Riverview, FL
Firearms perfection improved

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