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#3350782 - 09/07/13 04:20 PM Re: Starting my 350 build [Re: Appalachian American]
DIRTTRAX
8 Point


Registered: 05/07/08
Posts: 1432
Loc: Lexington, TN

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You don't need a special tool. Depending on the size of your pickup tube a 5/8 of 11/16 open end wrench will slide over the tube. Secure the pump have a friend hold the pickup while you hold and tap the wrench. It works really well with no damage. Been doing it this way for years.
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"I dont remember what happen last night, but the fact that I had to put on sunglasses to open the fridge this morning tells me it must have been awesome!"

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#3354312 - 09/10/13 06:39 PM Re: Starting my 350 build [Re: Boone 58]
Appalachian American
8 Point


Registered: 10/08/09
Posts: 1381
Loc: Cookeville, TN

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I was surprised at how much larger the intake ports are on these vortex heads. .269 larger!! Vroom

made some progress yesterday. Got the heads on finally.


Set the valves today and got the intake on. Feels good to make some headway!!!

_________________________
Anything worth having don't come easy. Hunt hard and praise the Lord!
Hang on tight, life is a wild ride.
2010 Camaro 2SS/RS

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#3354319 - 09/10/13 06:46 PM Re: Starting my 350 build [Re: Appalachian American]
Appalachian American
8 Point


Registered: 10/08/09
Posts: 1381
Loc: Cookeville, TN

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Thanks for the heads up DIRTTRAX I was using a pair of vice grips. Ill use your method next time.
_________________________
Anything worth having don't come easy. Hunt hard and praise the Lord!
Hang on tight, life is a wild ride.
2010 Camaro 2SS/RS

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#3355194 - 09/11/13 10:18 AM Re: Starting my 350 build [Re: Appalachian American]
SCAT
6 Point


Registered: 08/10/12
Posts: 689
Loc: ANDERSON CO.

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This is the pressure regulator that you need. It has a bypass built in that will divert excess fuel back to the tank. That fuel flow cools your pump. I have used several of them on throttle body to carb conversions. Leave your fuel pump wired stock and also leave the computer connected as it runs the pump for the first 3 seconds after the key is turned on. After that, the oil pressure switch runs it.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-803bp


Edited by CR500AFX (09/11/13 10:21 AM)
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She told me if I go hunting one more time she's gonna leave me......I'm gonna miss her...

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#3355478 - 09/11/13 12:56 PM Re: Starting my 350 build [Re: SCAT]
Appalachian American
8 Point


Registered: 10/08/09
Posts: 1381
Loc: Cookeville, TN

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Good looking out CR500AFX. I have that very one (ordered it a while ago). I've read to keep the pressure at 5.5 psi so I got a pressure gauge too. Back to work tomorrow so I hope to find time again soon.

My biggest issue now is getting the fuel lines worked out (shouldn't be much trouble).


Thanks y'all.
_________________________
Anything worth having don't come easy. Hunt hard and praise the Lord!
Hang on tight, life is a wild ride.
2010 Camaro 2SS/RS

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#3357387 - 09/12/13 08:29 PM Re: Starting my 350 build [Re: Appalachian American]
DIRTTRAX
8 Point


Registered: 05/07/08
Posts: 1432
Loc: Lexington, TN

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5.5 is low for that application. I've never started with less than 7 and worked up from there depending on supporting parts. The vortechs flow really well and I think you will find out pretty quick 5 psi won't keep up.
_________________________
"I dont remember what happen last night, but the fact that I had to put on sunglasses to open the fridge this morning tells me it must have been awesome!"

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#3357414 - 09/12/13 08:45 PM Re: Starting my 350 build [Re: DIRTTRAX]
DIRTTRAX
8 Point


Registered: 05/07/08
Posts: 1432
Loc: Lexington, TN

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As far as fuel lines follow cr500 advice and by the regulator. Then all you have to do is adapt your existing lines to the regulator and one new short line to run to the carb. Set your pressure and go. This is the way I would recommend also as I have done several this way. There are other ways to do it though, one of the most popular shadetree ways that inexpensive is go to any parts store and ask for a inline 7-9 psi fuel pump. Then all you do is put it inline in your current fuel feed line, disable current pump (pull fuse) and wire the new pump to keyed 12 volts and go. You can do away with the return line. You leave the factory pump in the tank and just pull thru it. Its crude, cheap and effective. Only money your out is what the pump cost and however much fuel line you need to get to the carb. Prob be done under 30 bucks. Its not how I do mine nor do I recommend it but I have seen it done time after time and it works.
_________________________
"I dont remember what happen last night, but the fact that I had to put on sunglasses to open the fridge this morning tells me it must have been awesome!"

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#3357471 - 09/12/13 09:30 PM Re: Starting my 350 build [Re: DIRTTRAX]
SCAT
6 Point


Registered: 08/10/12
Posts: 689
Loc: ANDERSON CO.

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I just built an S10 making in the 400HP range with a Quickfuel (holley) 750 Double pumper and it is good thru the 1/8 mile with the regulator set to the factory 5.5 PSI. (the instructions that came with mine said it is preset to 5.5psi)I see you're running an Edelbrock that is 600CFM so you shouldn't have a problem. One key note. You want the regulator as close to the carb as possible. On the S10, the fuel lines exit the frame in front of the driver side motor mount and rubber hoses connect them to more metal lines that run up behind the alternator (serpentine belt setup). I put the regulator right over and to the left of the water neck. Your fuel lines may come up the top side of the tranny to the rear of the engine so you could put the regulator behind the carb if there is room. I used compression fittings and hard piped the one I did. If you use any rubber hose between the pump and the regulator, you will need fuel injection hose that is pressure rated.

Edited by CR500AFX (09/13/13 12:28 AM)
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She told me if I go hunting one more time she's gonna leave me......I'm gonna miss her...

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#3361174 - 09/16/13 10:57 AM Re: Starting my 350 build [Re: SCAT]
Rubberduck270
10 Point


Registered: 11/01/10
Posts: 2875
Loc: Lawrence Co.

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Not to rain on your parade but, any time you have two surfaces that need to seal to each other (like the intake to the heads and water pump to block) you want to make sure there's not any paint on the mating surfaces. Not saying it's going to leak but if in a couple months you get a vacuum leak you can't find or water seepage from the water pump (or a little water in the oil) pull the intake and clean the heads up. You used good gaskets which may get you by for a little while but if the paint decides it doesn't want to stick to the head after a few heat cycles you're gonna have troubles...
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Smokeless Muzzleloading: It ain't your Grampa's flintlock

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#3361636 - 09/16/13 05:00 PM Re: Starting my 350 build [Re: Rubberduck270]
Appalachian American
8 Point


Registered: 10/08/09
Posts: 1381
Loc: Cookeville, TN

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I appreciate that rubberduck270. I was wondering if anyone would pick up on it. I actually cleaned about 1/2" of the paint from around the ports before I put the gaskets on. I'm pretty sure it'll hold up. Least I hope and pray it does \:\)
_________________________
Anything worth having don't come easy. Hunt hard and praise the Lord!
Hang on tight, life is a wild ride.
2010 Camaro 2SS/RS

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