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#3075004 - 12/11/12 07:43 PM gun cleaning
4 Point

Registered: 08/12/10
Posts: 287

Just wondering what everyone swears by. I use break free but its not doing as good a job as I think it should on powder residue. Also what is the best at removing copper fouling. The guy that built my suppressors told me to let the soak in croil or acetone for 24 hrs then shake the excess out and blow them out with an air compressor??? Really???? What do you think

Edited by matt_brown (12/11/12 07:45 PM)

#3075045 - 12/11/12 08:07 PM Re: gun cleaning [Re: matt_brown]
6 Point

Registered: 11/23/10
Posts: 620
Loc: Ft. Hood, TX / Afghanistan

Butch's bore shine...
It is better to live one day as a lion, than a thousand years as a lamb.

#3075047 - 12/11/12 08:10 PM Re: gun cleaning [Re: matt_brown]
12 Point

Registered: 09/30/05
Posts: 6877
Loc: Knoxville, TN

I use Shooter's Choice. It's the best copper solvent I've ever used. I run a wet patch down the barrel several times and let it sit for 10 min. Then run a brush up and down the barrel 10+ times and run another wet patch up and down the barrel again and let it sit. Run the brush thru again 10+ times again and do one more wet patch and let it sit for another 10 min. The next patch thru is almost always clean and I'm done.
Winchester Model 70 Stainless Left Hand .270 Win.
McMillan Edge
Talley Lightweights
Zeiss Victory Varipoint #60 Illuminated

#3075201 - 12/11/12 10:04 PM Re: gun cleaning [Re: matt_brown]
10 Point

Registered: 09/03/08
Posts: 4764
Loc: Shelby County

Gunslick foam. There is another one, I am not home to look at my stuff to get the name right, I may post back up when I get it. The Gunslick foam works wonders. I took me about 4 attempts at what I thought was a clean rifle to get to cold steel. After that initial cleaning and ever since, I fill the barrel and 20 minutes later swab out the barrel and in maybe three patches, nothing but white cotton. I have not used a brush in two years except on my muzzleloader, which I clean the old fashioned way.

Downsides exist. The foam is murder on finishes and it melts certain kinds of plastics. Remove the barrle/action from the stock. Do NOT go berserk with the foam, having it spray out the barrel like snow is a very bad thing but you must fill the barrel, so there is some learning to do. It will absolutely postively eat a hole in carpet and blue jeans. You absolutely positively must wear safety goggles.

The other foam is not so poisonous but it also takes two times to get cold steel.

It runs about 10 bucks, mine has lasted two years. Its in a blue and silver/black can. Do not lose the filler hose. Follow the instructions to the letter, you will not be disappointed.

I should elaborate on the first time you use the foam. I position the barrel as level as I can get it, stick the filler tube in the throat, push the button with one hand and with my other hand i have a finger loosley over the muzzle. WHen I feel the foam, I relase the button, remove the filler, wipe everything clean with paper towels, and dispose of them in a metal #10 can. I used a brush when the first attempt to clean the barrel was not successful. The brush came apart and after using regular tools to get that mess cleaned up, I went back to the foam. I had multiple layers of carbon and copper to remove. If you leave the barrel in a muzzle down position you can watch black ooze drip out but understand that means the fluid is not cleaning since it ain't in the barrel. Until I got the barrel clean (it was my 300 Browning WInMag) I would run dry patches through and when they came out dry but dirty, I shot another round of foam down the barrel. Once a patch comes out dry and clean, a very light coat of your favorite oil may be recommended. Myself, I stick the barrel full of cotton balls.

Have fun and report back

Edited by DaveB (12/11/12 10:14 PM)

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