#2978817 - 10/12/12 12:31 PM
Truck rear end
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Diehard Hunter
12 Point
Registered: 08/01/08
Posts: 5216
Loc: East Tennessee
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Does anyone know anything about changing a pinion gear in the reader end of a dodge ram? Would it just be better to get a used rear end?
From what I am hearing, this is going to be a costly repair. Is it possible to change out a rear end without a lot of specialized tools? I am fairly mechanically inclined, but have never tackled anything like this.
The truck is a 2001 dodge ram 1500 4x4 quad cab.
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#2978898 - 10/12/12 01:42 PM
Re: Truck rear end
[Re: Diehard Hunter]
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Grizzly Johnson
Good ol' Boys "Team Grizzly"
16 Point
Registered: 10/07/08
Posts: 12827
Loc: Mid. TN
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Well if you are changing a pinion gear, you will be changing the ring gear as well.... they are made as a matching set.
If you don't have the tools, I would just try to find a good used rearend...
You will have to disassemble the rear axle.... drain the oil, take the cover off, pull the wheels/tires off, pull the brake drums, remove the cross pin retaining bolt, remove cross pin, slide the axle shafts inward a bit, pull the c-clip inside the differential to release the axleshafts, slide axleshafts out. Spider gears (side gears) will probably fall out inside the carrier, just keep track of any shims under the spider gears. Then take the bearing caps off (be sure to take note, they have to go back on EXACTLY how/where they came off)... Then you pull the differential out.
Remove the driveshaft (have blocks under the tires to keep vehicle from rolling), remove large nut in the axle yolk, pull the yolk off. Remove the pinion gear from the inside. Remove the old pinion seal and replace it with the new before final assembly.
Depending on the miles on the axle and the condition of the bearings, you might can reuse the old bearings, therefore removing the carrier bearings are optional. The pinion bearings are the same way depending on why your replacing it in the first place. For me, why chance it and just get the master rebuild kit and replace everything. It's enough of a process might as well do it right the first time.... it's a chore either way. A bearing press will work wonders and save ALOT of work. Remove the bearings on each side of the carrier (keep up with and make note of how many and which side any shims are when bearings are removed. Remove the bearings from the pinion gear, again remember and keep up with any shims when bearings are removed.
Remove the ringgear. Install the new ringgear. Use locktite on the new bolts and tighten them in a criss-cross pattern to spec. Install the new bearings (putting any shims where they were taken off of).... Put the pinion gear in and secure with the OLD nut first and tighten down to spec. You should only use the new nut on final assembly, once you tighten it down to spec, don't take it off.
Install the carrier and then the caps, use the old cap bolts until final assembly. Snug the bolts down to spec. You will need a backlash gauge to check the backlash between the ring and pinion. You take the "paint" that comes in the kit and paint the teeth of the ringgear. Rotate the assembly a few times and check the wear pattern. It must look like the preferred patten on the directions.... to adjust it, you add/remove shims as needed. When you check the backlash, if it is not in spec, add/remove shims as needed. Therefore the bearings may need to be pressed on and off a couple of times, this is where the press comes in handy. If not set up properly, it will eventually self-destruct, chip gear teeth, or have a whine to it when going down the road.
Once the gears are in spec, do final assembly with new yolk nut and bearing cap bolts, tighten to spec.
Now since all is torn down, you might as well replace the rear wheel/axle bearings and seals, again depending on mileage on the axle.... last thing you want to do is go through all that work and a few thousand miles later have to tear it all back down just to replace a bearing or seal.
Replace axle shafts, put spider gears back in.... rotating them some to get them back in place me be required. Then install c-clips on shafts inside the carrier. Pull out the axle shafts enough to retain the c-clip in the side gears (spider gears). Then replace cross pin and pin retaining bolt. Put cover on using new gasket or permatex and allow to cure, add quality gear oil, install driveshaft, replace brake drums, wheels/tires.....
It can be a good days job. If you are not experienced in doing the change, I would suggest having someone with the proper tools do it for you.
That is a brief overview.... there may be a step or two I left out but I have seen it done and had to have it done a few times swapping out axles in my old 4x4.... it is detail oriented.
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#2978914 - 10/12/12 01:57 PM
Re: Truck rear end
[Re: Grizzly Johnson]
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HuntingDicksonDTC
8 Point
Registered: 11/09/06
Posts: 1804
Loc: Dickson
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some specialty tools needed to change ring & pinion, need to set set pinion depth, backlash & preload (on the side bearing), some dodge products you need a case spreader to install the carrier back in the housing also.
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#2978981 - 10/12/12 03:02 PM
Re: Truck rear end
[Re: HuntingDicksonDTC]
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Twinshooter
8 Point
Registered: 10/12/01
Posts: 2403
Loc: Round Rock, TX.. USA
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Whew, sound like a rear end change, no way would I tackle that.
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#2979046 - 10/12/12 04:05 PM
Re: Truck rear end
[Re: Twinshooter]
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TNGunhunter
6 Point
Registered: 09/29/12
Posts: 664
Loc: Wilson County, TN
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I've seen lots of them done when I worked at the dodge shop. If you've never done it, don't try it...will just cost you $$$ to re do it...find a used one or use someone with experience...if you don't get it set up right...mucho problemos...
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#2979075 - 10/12/12 04:23 PM
Re: Truck rear end
[Re: TNGunhunter]
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Diehard Hunter
12 Point
Registered: 08/01/08
Posts: 5216
Loc: East Tennessee
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Sounds like more than I can handle. I think I have found a guy that can rebuild it. Gator Gave me the contact info for the guy doing his bronco and he acted like he could handle it. We shall see on Monday!
It is times like these I really miss my granddaddy. He taught auto mechanics at State Area Vocational years ago. He died when I was much too young to learn the trade from him.
Thanks for the input guys!
_________________________
One of the penalties of an ecological education is that one lives alone in a world of wounds. Aldo Leopold
Don't argue with an idiot He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
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#2979085 - 10/12/12 04:30 PM
Re: Truck rear end
[Re: Diehard Hunter]
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leader
12 Point
Registered: 08/10/06
Posts: 6309
Loc: Knox
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Good luck man....
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#2979221 - 10/12/12 07:37 PM
Re: Truck rear end
[Re: leader]
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tn red
4 Point
Registered: 07/19/10
Posts: 110
Loc: rutherford
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Just changed the rearend in a 99 ram 4x4.$450.00 for a used rearend & had in back on the road in 4 hrs
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#2979345 - 10/12/12 09:12 PM
Re: Truck rear end
[Re: tn red]
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TeamMainStreet
8 Point
Registered: 08/30/07
Posts: 1700
Loc: Union County,Tn
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Just changed the rearend in a 99 ram 4x4.$450.00 for a used rearend & had in back on the road in 4 hrs
This is what I would do. Either junk yard or craigslist. Just make sure that you get the same ratio as what's in it now so it will match the front diff. Ratio. Drop drive shaft, jack up truck and sit frame on stands, remove wheels, unhook emergency brake and brake lines, take jolts of with a jack under it of course, and just do the opposite to install the other one.
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#2979492 - 10/13/12 12:11 AM
Re: Truck rear end
[Re: TeamMainStreet]
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TNGunhunter
6 Point
Registered: 09/29/12
Posts: 664
Loc: Wilson County, TN
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don't forget to re-bleed the brakes...important step...lol
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