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#1723214 - 01/13/10 09:56 AM Stoner......need help!!!
WarEagle99
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Registered: 01/13/10
Posts: 4
Loc: Cookeville

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I've been studying your pot call post and have tried my first one. I made it out of ambrosia maple that i got at woodcraft in Nashville. Anyway, it turned out really good and I was pretty proud of it. That is, until I woke up this morning and it had warped!! I thought it was dry wood??? You ever experience this? I was also wondering if you could give me a little advice on finishing or sealing the calls once completed? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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#1725080 - 01/14/10 08:59 AM Re: Stoner......need help!!! [Re: WarEagle99]
Stoner
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Registered: 10/03/06
Posts: 684
Loc: Florida

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I just read your post. It sounds like you are correct. The wood in all likelihood was not completely dry. It has not happened to me yet, but I know of several custom call makers that it has happen to. I have heard of that with some of the wood that comes from Woodcraft can still be green. I have purchased a lot of wood from Woodcraft and have not had a problem. I cut a lot some of my own wood from raw logs and seal the ends of the planks with Anchor Seal. If you air dry the wood you can use one inch of thickness per year to dry. You can purchase a moisture meter on EBay relatively inexpensively. The moisture of the wood should be around 6-7% before you should considering turning the wood on the lathe.
When I finish a call I use progressively finer grades of sandpaper on the calls. I do all my sanding on the lathe. After I finish with the sandpaper I use 0000 steel wool and then I use EEE Ultra Shine. EEE Ultra Shine is one of the best kept secrets of woodworkers. It will make the grain of the wood pop. I next use five layers of Tru Oil finished to seal and protect the wood. After each layer of Tru Oil I let is dry for about 24 hours, so it is a long process, but it will be done right and you will be happy with the end result. The direction on the bottle of Tru Oil says wait 20 minutes between coats. I like to let it set up and get hard before applying the next coat of finish. (Note: On your strikers wrap some painters tape (blue tape) around the tip of the striker before apply the finish to the striker.)
Another method that I am experimenting with is a method used by the old duck call makers. You make a mixture of Linseed Oil (BLO), Tung Oil, Jap Drier, and a little Beeswax and put the mixture over heat and cook the call for and hour and hang it to dry and do this for about three days. At the end you polish the call on the lathe. I have seen some of these calls and they have a very deep finish and they are waterproof. I am going to try the method and will take some pictures and if it works I will post the end result. Stoner.

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#1725262 - 01/14/10 11:40 AM Re: Stoner......need help!!! [Re: Stoner]
WarEagle99
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Registered: 01/13/10
Posts: 4
Loc: Cookeville

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Thanks so much for you help. I guess I need to start drying wood for next year. Also wondering where you got that chuck with the small jaws. I have been turning a tenon(SP?) on the back and then turning it over and gouging out the bowl with the tenon in the jaws, but with thinner wood I wont have enough thickness to do it that way. Thanks again.
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#1725305 - 01/14/10 12:17 PM Re: Stoner......need help!!! [Re: WarEagle99]
Stoner
6 Point


Registered: 10/03/06
Posts: 684
Loc: Florida

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I do not have a high price chuck. I purchased my chuck from Penn State Industries. It is call a Barracuda Chuck. It came with three or four sets of jaws. Here is a link: http://www.pennstateind.com/store/CSC3000C.html
You might want to consider the flat jaws as well when turning calls. They do come in handy. Here is a link for the set that I have. http://www.pennstateind.com/store/BARR4FJ3.html
Stoner

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#1726482 - 01/14/10 10:50 PM Re: Stoner......need help!!! [Re: Stoner]
WarEagle99
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Registered: 01/13/10
Posts: 4
Loc: Cookeville

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thanks again Stoner......I may need more help later.
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